What did you do with your GRiSO today?

ghezzi wrote:

HEY, SHOULDN'T YOU TEACH THE YOUNG FELLA "RUBBER SIDE UP"?

Hey Bill, got your e-mail, will get back to you soon.

I was at TOG 2005-2007. Loved it.

Bill Hagan wrote:

Bulldog9 wrote:

Well, I havent done much with my GRiSO lately except to add some leads to the battery for the trickle charger.... I guess I am making her jealous because I am working on the Brown Bitch (Norge)

As I am back in a metro area and will be commuting most days, I needed to make some modifications to the lighting and horn.  I installed an extra bright LED strip to the luggage rack, and wired in a plug so when I want to pull the rack off I can without much drama.  I also wired in an LED Headlight to the front of the bike. This light has a pulse feature and an alternating red/blue ring around the light. Hopefully this will make me more visible on approach from front or rear.  I also did a plug and play with a sound blaster horn of some type, much better than the meep meep joke of the stock horn.

My final modification I have slipped in between trips in and out of the garage when working off the honeydo list from SWMBO, was to wire in a relay for the Corbin heated seat. While I had the wires apart for the tail light I used the taillight to send the switched power to the relay. Prior to this my lazy @$$ just connected the seat to the battery.

[Ed. by Bill: all pix enjoyed but snipped to reply   >

I do have a few things planned for the GRiSO for the off season, but it did get the honor of being used to start indoctrinating my grandson. ;-)

Very cool.

Oh, just saw your response to my PM.  Doh.

Stand by for incoming.  

OBTW, when were you TOG Chaplain?  

Bill

ghezzi wrote:

HEY, SHOULDN'T YOU TEACH THE YOUNG FELLA "RUBBER SIDE UP"?

An even bigger Doh' for me, I meant rubber side DOWN!

Greasing the steering-Bearing. Tenni 2009 and it was very light rests of original grease to see. No corrosion, no marks. Rebuild it this Weekend. Changed also fork-oil and Sealings to SKF 435-Parts. Send up sone sun and blow away the rain for us in cold Germany! I'd like to drive to get back Information from the GRiSO. She was very stiff in to get her in curves. My Stelvio and also my old S3 are better to drive. But i hope to fix this with a new set-up, Öhlins on the rear and Angel GT-Tires this year. Engine is running now perfect, thanks to Beetle.

XU12, drop the front end to the lower ring showing. It will never be a GP bike but that will help a lot.

Australia Day, rode the long way Gladstone to Maryborough via Maidenwell ( North of Nanango) about 7 hours in the saddle. Only bought one ticket to the policeman’s ball. 120 in a 100 zone. I’d slowed down for a bit before hand thank F.  A fair cop, no excuses. 1st ticket since 2009. No good behaviour points here in Queensland I’m afraid.
Fat GRiSO chilling under Nana’s Frangapani tree

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If only archaeologist was a ‘needed’ profession in Australia, I’d migrate there in a heartbeat. Lovely picture, shame about the ticket

Tim, the Qld outback has the largest collection/supply of fossilized creatures and dinosaur bones in the world. Come on down, bring lots of wine bottle corks and learn ventriloquism.

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Fitted a new cooler cover today. The old one was already warped. It's just one of the mg cycles ones I powder coated matt black. While I was at it I axed the charcoal canister.

I tried to remove my exhaust system today...and failed. Unfortunately both of the inner exhaust manifold nuts were/are one fused mess of rust. On the right cylinder I was able to remove it (the nut actually didn't come loose, the entire bolt came out!) but the left cylinder one was(is) pure drama. Spend over 2 hours on it using various methods without success. The nut was so rusted that the outer edge came off as flakes of rust, leaving the nut pretty much rounded/stripped. None of my tools get a proper grip on it, and there is not enough room to use normal spanners so I can only use a socket wrench.

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I've soaked it in ACF50 for the night, will try again tomorrow. Will try the old centerpoint + hammer trick tomorrow.

On the plusside, the lamda probe which I had a bad feeling about, came off without too much effort!

Removed the charcoal canister and gave the new girl a thorough spray down with acf-50 then installed a dart marlin fly screen.

motor-timothy wrote:

I tried to remove my exhaust system today...and failed. Unfortunately both of the inner exhaust manifold nuts were/are one fused mess of rust. On the right cylinder I was able to remove it (the nut actually didn't come loose, the entire bolt came out!) but the left cylinder one was(is) pure drama. Spend over 2 hours on it using various methods without success. The nut was so rusted that the outer edge came off as flakes of rust, leaving the nut pretty much rounded/stripped. None of my tools get a proper grip on it, and there is not enough room to use normal spanners so I can only use a socket wrench.

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I've soaked it in ACF50 for the night, will try again tomorrow. Will try the old centerpoint + hammer trick tomorrow.

On the plusside, the lamda probe which I had a bad feeling about, came off without too much effort!

try and heat it up

If that doesn't work, you could try adding another nut to lock the two together, and remove them both along with the stud.

I've done this before when I was desperate.

You used a double hex socket didn't you? Heat? Vice grips and expect to buy a new stud and nut plus schnoore washer.

Well that was a disaster. Spend over 4 hours total attempting to get that exhaust header nut off. Tried everything I could think of with the tools at hand, not even heating it worked. I used a small grinder to cut through the nut, but it still wouldn't come off, completely fused to the thread. Eventually in a moment of frustrated loss of intelligent thinking I resorted to cutting off the entire nut + stud right above the rim (there was no washer). After I did this I realized what a terrible idea that was, for now there was nothing left to grip.

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So then I spend an hour moving the remaining rim of the nut millimeter by millimeter by delicately hammering it sideways with a tiny screwdriver & hammer. Thankfully it worked and I got it off.

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Apparently tenacity trumps skill and intelligence


However now I'm left with that remnant of the stud which is rusted, completely stuck, and has a partial fracture running from the center to the outer thread. I'm terrified it will shatter if I apply too much force. I think I'll buy a tap to re-thread and do the double nut thing. But for today I'm done.

Motor - Timothy,

You have my empathy - ok so now you have the opportunity to weld a good nut onto that stud (disconnect both battery leads) and use a single hexagon socket as per our learned friend above. Sometimes just the welding of the stud generates enough localised heat to help release it.

Fingers crossed for you - Paul

...and if the factory used a thread lock then you may have to warm that stud until you get a whiff of smoke from round the base of the stud which indicates that it’s surrendered.

Pete / Mark - is there any glue on those studs from the factory?

motor-timothy wrote:

Well that was a disaster. Spend over 4 hours total attempting to get that exhaust header nut off. Tried everything I could think of with the tools at hand, not even heating it worked. I used a small grinder to cut through the nut, but it still wouldn't come off, completely fused to the thread. Eventually in a moment of frustrated loss of intelligent thinking I resorted to cutting off the entire nut + stud right above the rim (there was no washer). After I did this I realized what a terrible idea that was, for now there was nothing left to grip.

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So then I spend an hour moving the remaining rim of the nut millimeter by millimeter by delicately hammering it sideways with a tiny screwdriver & hammer. Thankfully it worked and I got it off.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Apparently tenacity trumps skill and intelligence


However now I'm left with that remnant of the stud which is rusted, completely stuck, and has a partial fracture running from the center to the outer thread. I'm terrified it will shatter if I apply too much force. I think I'll buy a tap to re-thread and do the double nut thing. But for today I'm done.

Put two nuts on it, get a blowtorch (die gamma dingen op gas werken prima) and heat it up hot. Wack it with a hammer (not sideways!) then try and remove it. Worked fine on my nato

Once a year move the Nuts and grease with copperpaste ( Kupferpaste ) so there should be no problem. I have damaged the Heads of my old 750 S3 by breaking these parts by too much force. After repair i get this advice from a Guzzi-Owner of a 750 Sport with srewable big Nuts ( Überwurfmuttern...). It helped over the last34 Years!

Also, don't be tempted to use stainless steel nuts to avoid the rusting again.  They may seize onto the stud making them impossible to undo.

Don't ask me how I know.

kiwi dave wrote:

Also, don't be tempted to use stainless steel nuts to avoid the rusting again.  They may seize onto the stud making them impossible to undo.

Don't ask me how I know.

Thanks, I was definitely going to use stainless steel nuts. Is it because of the heat that they may seize?

Hmmmmmm.

Note to self: check what you recently added to GRiSO.

Do NOT mention to other Grisisti.

Bill

motor-timothy wrote:

Thanks, I was definitely going to use stainless steel nuts. Is it because of the heat that they may seize?

I used stainless steel lock nuts on my Cali 1400.  It was only meant to be a temporary arrangement, but after one day three out of the four were galled to the studs.  After they were removed, I tried to undo them with a very long extension to my 1/2" socket driver, but it was obvious it was never going to let go.  I had to replace them all.

What I don't understand, galling normally occurs on stainless to stainless, not stainless to plain steel.  Perhaps the stud material is something other than what I assumed.

stainless to alu is pretty bad too btw.

stainless is steel with chrome,nickel,and a few other metals so they will gall. we use brass nuts on exhaust manifold studs[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]