What did you do with your GRiSO today?

Craig you can buy these bits from the importers - might have to wait till they get a new batch in from Germany but usually 4 weeks at worst - see linky

Cheers Tony.
I'll see if I can glue it and apply some carbon fibre weave patches.
If it doesn't hold well enough I'll get a replacement bracket.

I know it’s not quite today but....
Over the weekend Mark (Beetle) remapped my 850 for me as I was getting a bit of detonation from about 4 1/2 and up. What a difference, I was comfortably sitting at a steady 120+ on the way home and it was as smooth as a worm with a tie on.
I am now rethinking my decision to sell the GRiSO, especially as the Cali is in bits chasing a weird top end rattle.

What sort of Cali?

Ian, - gotta love Mark's work...

Pete, it’s a t3 from 76, funny old thing but it has had a rebuild and the bores and pistons are like brand new as in no scuffing on the thrust faces so it’s not piston slap, and the small end is in spec albeit right at the top end of the clearance tolerance for the workshop manual (0:0008-0.0018”) it actually measures at 0.001775” clearance.
But"......... I have noticed whoever installed the pistons put them in back to front!
The big cutout in the piston crown is aligned with the exhaust valve, and the arrow points toward the inlet side. So unless the exhaust cam has significantly higher lift than the inlet which I doubt, then they are back to front.
There are no witness marks for a clash condition but it can’t have helped matters.
The search continues.

Errrrrr? How big is the dome on these Pistons? Any chance of a pic? Has it still got chrome bores?

Ian p wrote:

Pete, it’s a t3 from 76, funny old thing but it has had a rebuild and the bores and pistons are like brand new as in no scuffing on the thrust faces so it’s not piston slap, and the small end is in spec albeit right at the top end of the clearance tolerance for the workshop manual (0:0008-0.0018”) it actually measures at 0.001775” clearance.
But"......... I have noticed whoever installed the pistons put them in back to front!
The big cutout in the piston crown is aligned with the exhaust valve, and the arrow points toward the inlet side. So unless the exhaust cam has significantly higher lift than the inlet which I doubt, then they are back to front.
There are no witness marks for a clash condition but it can’t have helped matters.
The search continues.

That can't be good. I don't think it will work well The inlet and outlet valve are very different in size and i don't think the valves run free of the piston. Rebuild my T4 twice now. First time it decided to try and run without big-end bearings (not fun when you are doing 160kmh on the highway) and the second time (after not riding it for a year orso) the crankseal at the clutch side started leaking.

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Clancy wrote:

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I has a spare, used one.

Funny old thing, but I’ve had the bike for about 10,000 miles before pulling it apart to find the pistons in the wrong way round. Even went to the ruptured budgie on her last year with no issues at all.
The only reason for pulling the top end is a noise exactly like a Loud tappet rattle. Which definitely isn’t loose tappets.
So far the valves are all perfect, the guides have been k lined, the bores are Gilardoni with absolutely no wear, no marking to the thrust faces of the skirts no carbon or browning past the ring lands, the hone marks are spot on, the rocker shafts are perfect, and the running faces between the valves and rocker shafts are un marked.

The only thing I can find up to now is the small end clearance is at the top end of the tolerance band, still within spec but at the top end of the 0.0008 to 0.0018 limits, (actually they measure at 0.00175 and 0.001775).

The pistons are low compression obviously as they are really low domes. Having said that whoever built the engine saw fit to put 88mm bores on her, but I have no idea if the crank was rebalanced.

My fuel consumption as an average of just over 50 mpg (imperial) she runs points still and I suspect is a bit rich, given the carbon in the pipes. She doesn’t use oil between changes, every 2,000 miles though, so over all the engine is in good fettle, it’s just this occasional annoying rattle!

Heather and I just got back from our trip to Eden. Nearly 2000km for me because I made a side trip to Bungendore and got Pete and Michael to do a 130,000km service on the GRiSO. It performed flawlessly the whole way. On the Saturday after I got back from Bengendore, we rode the GRiSO to Tathra, had a look around and then left. Got back to Eden and found out that Tathra was on fire. We must have missed by less than an hour. 80 houses burnt to the ground. So sad for those people. The photo of the road is the start of the lovely little trek down Brown's mountain. Lots and lots of 25 and 35 kmh corners with nice ripples across the whole width of the road from the semis that go up and down it. The bikes a re Pete's after he put new pads on it, and after he had worn in his new Contis and the other is another customers. Thanks again to Pete and Michael who had got me drunk the night before the work was done on my bike. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

^^^^^^^



Great times; great story; memories for the future.

Sad, tho, about tragic fire at Tathra. Looking that up on web after posting this.

Bill

I'm actually having a glass of Yellow Tail while typing this on the other side of the world.

Cheers

Ian p wrote:

Funny old thing, but I’ve had the bike for about 10,000 miles before pulling it apart to find the pistons in the wrong way round. Even went to the ruptured budgie on her last year with no issues at all.
The only reason for pulling the top end is a noise exactly like a Loud tappet rattle. Which definitely isn’t loose tappets.
So far the valves are all perfect, the guides have been k lined, the bores are Gilardoni with absolutely no wear, no marking to the thrust faces of the skirts no carbon or browning past the ring lands, the hone marks are spot on, the rocker shafts are perfect, and the running faces between the valves and rocker shafts are un marked.

The only thing I can find up to now is the small end clearance is at the top end of the tolerance band, still within spec but at the top end of the 0.0008 to 0.0018 limits, (actually they measure at 0.00175 and 0.001775).

The pistons are low compression obviously as they are really low domes. Having said that whoever built the engine saw fit to put 88mm bores on her, but I have no idea if the crank was rebalanced.

My fuel consumption as an average of just over 50 mpg (imperial) she runs points still and I suspect is a bit rich, given the carbon in the pipes. She doesn’t use oil between changes, every 2,000 miles though, so over all the engine is in good fettle, it’s just this occasional annoying rattle!

Hmm but if that is all fine ... did you check your big ends? Any metal shavings in the bottom of your carter? If they are on their way out it will also sound like tapping in the heads. When i got my T4 it had a funny tapping sound too which magically disappered after i replaced the oil and did the valves. Better check it else you may end up looking for a new crank like i had to. (V11 crank fits too btw )

FIRST RIDE YESTERDAY.
Title work done. tune up, new tires and fluids. It was only 40° but I went out for 26 miles (tripled the odometer reading) and completely fell in love.

Cant wait to run it in and start tearing it up.

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IMHO the rocker covers on the 1100 GRiSO AND the Sport (2V) are simply the best. Now, go ride...

Oz1200Guzzi wrote:

IMHO the rocker covers on the 1100 GRiSO AND the Sport (2V) are simply the best. Now, go ride...

that's the idea.

Papa Lazarou wrote:

I has a spare, used one.

Thanks, Papa L.
I'll see how my repairs go and if it fails I'll PM you about purchasing it from you.

Deep space, apologies for the tardy reply been looking after the lad as swmbo is at work. I have checked the big ends to the best I can without disassembling them. I.e. checking in plane and lateral play and they have no discernible movement, certainly when the bike is running and casting a discerning ear over the engine there isn’t the distinctive low knock under load or rumble of big end or mains, it really is a loud tappet rattle at idle that goes away when a bit more revs are applied. I also have the idle up at about 1150 to 1200 as I don’t like the idea of starving the plain bearings just to make the poor old girl sound like a Hardley Ableto, you know the distinctive potato potato sound of mechanical mayhem smashing white metal through the oil wedge.
I am at the point of putting it all back together and running her just to see what the go is.
The next port of call may just be the timing chest, but it sounds a long way off a slapping chain.
At least I still have my GRiSO to slake my thirst with so all is not lost.

At long blody last i went to work on the GRiSO with the new fairing, the first ride this year.

The speedo played up and it wouldn't re-start when i got to work.....heaven, just how i remember it!




It works now, WD40 on the sidestand switch.

Ian p wrote:

Deep space, apologies for the tardy reply been looking after the lad as swmbo is at work. I have checked the big ends to the best I can without disassembling them. I.e. checking in plane and lateral play and they have no discernible movement, certainly when the bike is running and casting a discerning ear over the engine there isn’t the distinctive low knock under load or rumble of big end or mains, it really is a loud tappet rattle at idle that goes away when a bit more revs are applied. I also have the idle up at about 1150 to 1200 as I don’t like the idea of starving the plain bearings just to make the poor old girl sound like a Hardley Ableto, you know the distinctive potato potato sound of mechanical mayhem smashing white metal through the oil wedge.
I am at the point of putting it all back together and running her just to see what the go is.
The next port of call may just be the timing chest, but it sounds a long way off a slapping chain.
At least I still have my GRiSO to slake my thirst with so all is not lost.

Hmm mystery rattle then. Don't like those

What about the chain which drives the camshaft? Maybe it's just valve who need readjusting?

I like higher idle too, don't wanna rebuild it again.

Saw a better V twin than mine.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]IMAG0440 by James Lloyd-Williams, on Flickr

The Black Prince!

Well, I had the Oil Can and Red Triangle of Mildly Annoyed pop on my dash last week.  It was only there during a hard braking on a slight downhill at the end of my commute (hot engine).  It lingered for a couple of seconds and then went away.

As fluid levels all checked out, I went ahead and ordered and replaced the oil pressure sensor over the weekend.  Many thanks to Guzzi Cat for the excellent how-to (especially about the fuel line disconnect) : [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]  

Shake down cruise and ride to work were free of drama.

Keep a very close eye on it Jose and if it does it again or starts making any strange noises, most particularly rattly camchains that take a long time to go quiet on start up or when the bike gets hot then stop riding immediately as it's probably blown out the spacer gasket between the block and the sump spacer.

While rare this is a serious issue and if ignored can be fatal to the engine.

Pete