1200 Sport

First upgrade I did, Alan. Would never go back to the alloy ones. Hunt around on the inter-webby-thingy for prices - might be a bit hard to get here, as it's not a current model - having said that, give Mario a ring at Thunderbikes in WA, he would probably have them if anyone does. (08) 9379 1991

Unsure about the rider pegs, but I do know that the pillion pegs from a 750 Breva (with the rubber inserts) fit the last 1200 Sport. We did that for Gregg's Corsa. Breva or Nevada or V7 pegs are likely to be cheaper than Norge ones & if they fit, you're golden. I wouldn't be surprised if they are exactly the same - I'll have the small block part numbers, if you're interested.

There's an 1100 GRiSO turning up at the shed later this month, so, in anticipation (Phil's not particularly mechanically inclined), I downloaded the Spare Parts Manual for it, and lo & behold, it says this came with rubberised footpegs, which just happen to be the same part numbers as this on the the V7 & Breva 750. I checked the Nevada - the part numbers are different, so they may be sufficiently different that they won't be compatible.

Spoke with Mario (Thunderbikes) he said that the rears would probably fit the front reckoned that would have to machine them down, aren't I lucky as have a milling machine and lathe so may just be a future project to carry out, yes I checked out the inter-web-thingy as per Oz1200 suggestion and low and behold can source parts from Stien Dinse, anyway as stated a future job to do.

Mmmm checked the measurements last night between front and rear pegs, is a no go so will be purchasing set from stein dinse when time to do the job.

Hmmmm, got back to where I park my bike (1200 Sport 2 valve motor) near airport as I do FIFO work after 2 weeks away, bike wouldn't start. Bugger!!!!! anyway the needles swing around in the restart ritual can hear fuel pump fire up and a relay click then nothing, tried jump starting bike would do the same thing.
Being new to fuel injection and ECU's etc help, I have read that the earth can sometimes be a bit crook will have a look tomorrow and clean it some people on the forum talk about replacing a relay wire to a solenoid, (startus interruptus) however being a visual person a photo would be great.
What other fixes can I do to solve this problem, apart from that I enjoy riding the bike as I find it comfortable and since having this bike have not had a problem with it starting, oh and the battery was replaced just prior to me purchasing the bike at the beginning of the year (I have a receipt for the battery)
Any help is much appreciated.

Alan, classic "startus interruptus" symptoms, but it may also be the battery age. On the start relay (the one that clicks) there is a yellow wire. Remove this from the socket and tape it up so it doesn't provide an "emergency exit" for the electrons stored within.

Get a piece of heavy wire, put an in-line fuse (20A min, maybe 25A) on it, one end goes to your battery +ve, the other to the socket on the back of the start relay. Use a 1/4" quick connect female lug (common as at parts stores and Jaycar etc) and push it into the socket. Tape it to the other wires going into the socket so it doesn't fall out accidentally. The original lug has a small tang on it, so it needs a long thin toole (tomato can cut to size) to release it.

If it's the battery, replacement is the best option. How old is it (the battery)?

While you are in there, pull apart the leads and plug/sockets on the two big fuses next to the battery and make sure the connectors are clean and tight (one feeds form the alternator, the other to the rest of the bike's electrical system). This changes the voltage available to the bike, and I have seen the difference of 1 volt (higher) on the dash after doing it.

The earth under the starter cover is woeful, on a good day. Ream the lugs out and use one of the clutch housing bolts, just above the original earth point, as the new earth point - the original standoff that is the main earth and the mount for the starter should, is rather inadequate.

I can take photos if you get really stuck.

Hi Tony,
Thanks for your assistance, have been doing a little digging around on the bike and have also spoken with the original owner.
It has have the status interruptus mod done with inline 15 amp fuse fitted.
The battery was fitted dec 19 however is only a 14AH battery.
He at the time of doing the status interruptus mod also put in a jump wire from the starter solenoid with a cap fitted, so all you have to do is remove the cap and touch onto the positive of the battery and hey presto electrons flow and bike starts (wish I knew that yesterday afternoon).
I did speak with Mr Roper San and he said battery is undersize and suggested 20AH battery.
I did also cleaned all fuses as you had indicated as well as the starter relay and earth wire, that will be one of my jobs to do is relocate the earth to where you suggested
My question is what brand of battery will fit in the space without modifying the plastic battery cover that fits on the battery.

Alan

Yuasa YTX 20-CH BS

Thanks Pete for your help today

Unless you want to go with a LiFePO4 battery - mine is a 14AH but has about 40% more CCA than the Yuasa lead acid battery Pete suggested.

Hi Tony,
What brand is your battery, at least I have a couple of options then.

Thanks Alan

SSB. I use the LFP20CH-BS. 20AH, 360 CCA.

CLICKY

Mine's the smaller brother, but SSB nonetheless.

Hi Don,
Try Mario at Thunderbikes in Perth for parts. He sends Aust wide , quick and reliable.
Otherwise , try contacting one of the regular wreckers on Ebay / Gumtree or maybe Eurobrit ?

Yah success had a good look at the startus interruptis mod done by the former owner of the the bike, checked inline fuse guess wot, blown fuse is only 15 amp fuse replaced fuse and now starts with the button on the handlebar. Based on comments from Tony above will replace the fuse with a 20-25 amp fuse when get to car part shop, Pete also after having a quick chat about electricity and how it works made me think about how the system works. So all in all successful morning and I managed to learn more about the dark art of of all things that go zap and sometimes let the smoke out.

Alan

Smoke letting is something we all need to avoid. Blood letting with leeches well that's another story - and I need it from time to time.

Glad you got it sorted.

If the solenoid is a moment too slow to pull in, the amperes rise very very quickly and the fuse does its job. Now why would a solenoid be slow to pick up I hear you ask? Lubricant and/or verdigris. i am from the electrical school of education and solenoids are designed to work dry, while others feel a little lubricant helps. It helps initially but verdigris eventually gathers and the lubricant becomes akin to grease, making it all sticky and slow. Voila, blown fuse.

Call me an old grump, but keep your solenoids clean and dry.

So Tony, what you are saying is pull the solenoid from the starter motor and give it a good clean, I would assume that you use some sort of electrical cleaner that you can get from autopro or simular type of shop.

Alan

Simply clean it with kero or some other degreaser, making sure there is none left when you reassemble. I went with a bigger fuse, I still don't know how my solenoid looks - it's now been 15 years, so it probably needs some work. The top end is off at the moment, so I might get all motivated to have a look-see, then again I might not.

Remember linkages "might" need little lubricant, the solenoid doesn't. Changing the fuse might be sufficient unless you are anal.

I found with mine that 3 weeks of sitting -while i was fifo'ing, would just about drain the battery below start voltage.... I think its the clock sipping away.
so pull the 2 x 30A (green) fuses before you go and poke 'em back in when you land, reset the clock and go.
simples.

Hello gentlemen's, bit of an update on the 1200 Sport. I have fitted a Hepco and Becker rack to the back of the Sport and am looking to fit the 52 litre topbox would anyone have a photo shown from the rear of the bike has to how wide it is. This just gives me an idea of how wide the bike is as I sometimes commute with the bike and we can lane split in Queensland.
Other than that I am enjoying and getting used to riding the bike.

Alan

Alan, I don't have one of those, but I have made my own rack from Aluminium checker plate, with lots of holes for lightening and for tie down points. Can carry 2 slabs of beer on it and not lose one! A win for me - especially when camping at Mingoola (Ruptured Budgie), the beer shop is 60 km away at Tenterfield - what we'll do for beer eh? I also use a pair of C-Bows with 22 litre bags. When assembled thus, lane splitting would be an exercise is damage - not concerned about tin tops, but I do love my Sport!

If your top box is less than your handle bar width, you should be good.

Hello gents,
Am looking to do suspension upgrades and am wondering if anyone has done upgrades to 1200 sport if so what have you done, any information is appreciated.

Regards Alan

One of the problems with the Sport Marzocchi forks is that they are a rather crude design and have nowhere near the flexibility of a fork like the Showa used on GRiSO's. Having said that there is still room for improvement. I'd suggest taking them to a suspension specialist and seeking advice from them. Problem will probably be finding someone familiar with these particular forks.

At the rear the options are essentially identical to the other CARC series bikes. They all use the same swingarm and linkage. It's only the length of shock and travel that changes.

Alan, there used to be a progressive spring kit for the fronts, from HyperPro. Never tried it myself, but Pete is spot on, take it to a suspension guy and get them set up for you. Others have fitted the HyperPro kit and wax lyrical. I suspect there is more in the valving...

Oil is critical. I use (as do others on this here forum) Penrite 5W fork oil. On the Marzocchis, the amount of oil is quite important. Want a softer ride: 380 ml/leg; a firmer ride: 390 ml/leg; a bloody hard ride (think a smooth racetrack): 400 ml/leg. More than that and you pretty much have a rigid front end - don't ask how I know...

As the L/H side is compression and the R/H side is rebound, there are a zillion options there already, with good oil. I tuned my standard suspension at the same point of a road I use going to/from work. Each time I adjusted 1 click only on one side only, until I got it right for me. Can't remember the numbers, it's been years. Start in the middle (all the way to the left, count clicks all the way to the right, get the middle) and fiddle from there. Still not happy? Go see your suspension bloke.

The rear, hrrrmph - barely adequate, but you can change the ride by the book for what is best for you. Or, as Pete says, many option others have tried and tested, if you have something in your pockets.