1200 Sport

Hi,
  I have been lurking awhile in the Ghetto and have finally paid a deposit on a 2007 1200 Sport, I know tis not a GRiSO and I will be picking up said bike within the next week or so.
The bike in question is in immaculate condition with approx 35k on the clock, have ridden said bike and makes the old Mk 4 lemans feel ancient to ride (I suppose it is after all is 30+ years old), I have checked it out to the best of my ability, the screws that should not be touched are infact untouched and the bike rides like it is on rails the rear spring has been replaced with a heavier spring the owner has owned bike since new.
My questions are what sort of things should I be doing to the bike once I get it home, what should I check for, is their any adjustments/fixes that I should look at doing.

Regards
Alan

The usual for a CARC bike. Swingarm bearings and shock linkage, perhaps at this age steering head bearings and if you have any handling issues a suspension service and tune.

Other than that? Ask Mark and Tony about tuning options and just ride the freckle off it. We have no prejudice against any W5AM CARC bike. All are welcome here.

Pete

They are truly fantastic examples in my opinion.
Cograts.
Things I found that need to be watched..... cross over 2 into 1 is know to crack and that will upset the running of that wonderful big block.
If you ride it like it feels like you can you can warp those front rotors... It is a very heavy capable machine but riding it at that level will beat up the rotors as I found out.
Other than that..... Enjoy.

Ciao

Alan, winner. The ultimate in 2V dungers (ditch pumps) and as a 1200. Once sorted, pretty reliable. Congrats, mate.

Fronts forks are VERY sensitive to oil weight and quantity: Soft ride 380 ml/leg, firm ride (or loaded) 290 ml/leg, Race track 400 ml/leg. Left leg sets compression, right rebound - start in the middle and go from there, unless it's perfect already!

If you can find an alternative (HyperPro for instance) variable rate spring set for the front, I believe these are worth it - I've not tried it though.

Rear shock is "adequate" and may benefit from an alternative - others will suggest their versions/experiences.

Speedo sensor is prone to water ingress, and of course it's the more expensive version. Some are recoverable by drying out and sealing with a sealant.

A more open exhaust is easy peasy but will require a map from Mr Beetle for optimal running - expect sub 5.0 l/100 km on a trip, even loaded, and at higher velocities.

Dash has been known to mist up, or simply not work again. Again, others will point you in the right direction - searching this site is your friend.

The standards as mentioned by Pete above (steering head bearings, swing arm bearings) and the bearings in the wishbone attached to the rear shock are worthy things to attend to.

Oil pressure senders are shyte - converting to a 1/4" connector on top, instead of the T connector (just a metric screw in the top) will give a better connection and probably solve this problem.

The spacer gasket above the sump has been known to fail - indicated by an oil pressure issue, even when you know there's plenty of oil in there. Don't fill up 3.6 litres as recommended, it ends up in the airbox. Try 3.3 litres and see if that's close.

Stepper motor will eventually fail. Quite a few of us simply plug the stepper motor inlet pipe. Who needs a stepper motor in Australia?

I have 140,000 km on mine and apart from normal wear and tear items, is a good steed. Pat (Bahamazoo) can also advise as he has the same bike.

A group of us end up at the Ruptured Budgie Rally in May, at Mingoola - perhaps we can meet up there? Many of are "slow", so leave a few days ahead of others to ensure we get quality time around the campfire.

Nearly everything suggested for the mighty GRiSO, also applies to the Sport - except for the fuel tank capacity, where you are likely to get upwards of 400 km to a tank - especially around the suspension setup - you can even drop your triple clamps on the forks for twitchier turnin.

Wave rotors have been accused of warping - though this is generally pad material buildup as the rotor bobbins are too tight - clean them with brake cleaner an do a few hard stoppies to clean them up, if you have that problem.

Otherwise, just ride.

Alan, important first check is to make sure that it is red.
it is known that the black ones are 'not as fast'


apart from that, wot him an he said

Hi Gents thanks for the info I will heed what has been said and yes it is one of the faster ones, in Red photo to follow once i have possession of said motorcycle, where on the site can I see information and lots of pictures of how to pull apart swingarm, shock linkage and other sundry items to service. The bike is fitted with a centre stand, as well as a Staintune slip on muffler, oh and it has the original factory sidecases (in red of course, so should be really fast)
Yes I intend to make it to the next Budgie rally as have not attended the last 2 years.

Regards
Alan

Unfortunately a centrestand isn't helpful as getting the swingarm off requires removal of the side plates/footrest hangers and when you do that the stand will collapse.

You need to support the bike under it's sump and tie it down at the front, (Guzzis all have a rearward weight bias.) then it's just a matter of methodically disassembling stuff. Don't try and remove the swingarm with the bevelbox attached, you can't reinstall it and it's terribly cumbersome. Once it's off the bike it's also much more difficult to separate the bevelbox from the swingarm.

I'll try and find some suitable pics of disassembly to give you some idea.

Ditch the centre stand - will hit when spirited riding in corners - saves weight too.

Oh yeah, I use Penrite 5W fork oil - duck's nuts.

Here's a "how to" for the Stelvio: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

my stepper motor is sitting on a shelf in the shed.... solved those issues, and it hasn't been missed
there is also a brand new, un-fitted centre stand (in its box), sitting next to the stepper motor.

get the cables to plug her into your laptop - big leap of faith here for you Alan... fuel injection... for half the 'tune -up'. I'm not too far away if you need a hand.

if its got the staintune pipe, it may already have been remapped.... (if it has a magic box under the seat to do this, get out the side cutters and remove that posthaste!).

the wildguzzi write up is pretty good and easy to follow.
the job appears daunting but is quite straightforward really, and as long as you are methodical and take your time, is actually quite simple.
there is a plethora of help in these pages. a few minutes in the search bar will dredge up things no one needs to know

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

just about to head off to a Budgie....

Thanks for the information regarding tune and getting cables for laptop, I use Apple would that be problem getting software, I looked under the seat when checking out the bike and don't recall seeing a "Magic Box".
Can you tell me the function of the stepper motor, what does it control etc how does it work.
And yes I may just take you up on the offer for my first tune anyway but I will see how it goes, things like valve clearance are not a problem as well as carrying out most mechanical fixes etc but fuel injection is a whole new kettle of fish for me.
Anyway I am hoping to pick up the bike in the next couple of days once it has been submitted for roadworthy by the current owner.

Regards
Alan

DO NOT fiddle with the throttle bodies in any way at all until you have Guzzidiag up and running and know what you are doing.

The idle speed is hard coded into the ECU and is, to all intents and purposes to the end user, non adjustable. If you think you can lower it by turning the throttle stop screw, (It should be sealed with paint.) you would be wrong and can seriously damage the tune.

The stepper motor is the device used to control the idle speed. The 'Target Idle' is written into the ECU's programme. If the engine speed tries to drop the stepper allows more air in, leaning out the mixture and therefore raising the idle. The converse is also true. If the engine speed increases the stepper will reduce air supply enrichening the mixture so the idle speed falls.

If your bike is idling outside of its target idle band, (1,250 +/-50 for 8V's and I thing 1100 +/-50 for 2V's from memory.) there is something wrong. If the throttle bodies have been fiddled with by a Queensland 'Guru' don't be surprised if it behaves a bit strangely.

Pete

Hi Pete,
Thanks for the info regarding the throttle bodies, the first thing I checked when looking at the bike was the throttle bodies screws and the paint looked intact to me I don't believe the screws have been fiddled with, but I will check again when I go to pick it up.

Regards Alan

Well I finally have picked it up rode home from Towoomba to Ipswich on new years eve, I have checked the throttle stop screw and it does not look like it has been rogered, can still see the paint on the screw and in the allen head.
I did notice that when at lights when I kicked into neutral that it idled at about 1100 RPM however if I only had the clutch pulled in it idled at about 1600 RPM (occasionally however sometimes it idled at 1100 RPM) is this normal, apart from that I pretty happy with the bike as has more go than the Mk 4 Lemans and a comfortable upright seating position.
Still getting used to it so could take some time, oh the motor number starts with A2 are there any known issues with these motors, is there something I should look for when riding the bike.
Your thoughts please gentlemen

Regards
Alan

A2 engine is golden, Alan. As I said earlier the final interpretation of the 2 valve dunger - pretty solid lumps - expect around 300,000 km before any major work is needed. Mine's 140,000 ish, still on original bores and rings, still goes like the clappers. Other things have been listed earlier.

Ipswich you say, where abouts? My son lives at Brassall. We will be visiting him later this year, maybe we can catch up?

I'd have to say 300k is slightly ambitious Tony. Camchain, rings and guides will need attention before then at the very least but they are certainly robust and long lived.

Pete

Hi Tony,
Am in Flinders View which is the other side of Ipswich off the Cunningham Hwy.

Alan

that idle jump is likely the stepper motor playing games.

she will happily converse with apple.
scroll thru the Tech Archive 'Beetle Tech: 'GuzziDiag HowTo' ironically subtitled "A simple tutorial.."
that'll lead you to the download pages for GuzziDiag, the required IAW5 readers and writers, and the cables.

it really is plug and play.
emphasis on the play  

mmm... Toowoomba.... do we know this bike Tony

Hi Pete,
The idling that I mentioned is that okay or would there be an issue with it, anyway time will tell as I ride it more often and get a feel for the bike.

Alan

Bike was owned by a guy by the name of Ken he was in Gowie Junction just the other side of Toowoomba

I know of another in Gowrie Junction by the name of Pete - also red - but not a Ken. Two in the same area - whoda thunk? I'll contact Pete and see if he knows of it...

Bike has been crashed in the past (cosmetic damage only), but is a good one - apparently. Bloke was fastidious in his care for it.

i have been looking at the Stein Dinse site and have noticed that the Norge has front and rear footpegs that are/have rubber inserts for a more comfortable whilst riding. My question is does the Norge pegs fit the sport and does anyone have any spares floating around, as I would be interested in purchasing front and rear set of pegs

Yes they fit. No I don't have any.

Hi,
Is anyone else able to help regarding Norge footpegs, only require the footpegs as I will use the existing hardware for the rest.

Regards
Alan