!200 Sport Tank removal

Sorry I don't have a GRiSO, but perhaps one of you can help.
I have a 1200 Sport 4v (2010) now showing a smirr of escaped oil on a rubber tube with a tight U-bend on the RH side —just under the tank above the injector —oil breather pipe? I want to take the tank off to see what's up. I've read a lot about the notorious fuel connector and am ready for that. But how do I remove the various plastic side trims around the tank to take the tank off in the first place?  Any tips much appreciated.
Riversider
1200 Sport 4v

Quite easy. The grille at the front between the sponsons that loops under the steering head is retained by four button head screws with 4mm hexes in them. Remove them and the 5mm hexagonal dome nut in the middle just above the oil cooler, spread the sponsons and pull the grille out forward and down.

Then remove the seat and the two small plastic trim pieces between the tank and tailpiece retained by one button head each side and a push-stud through a grommet in the frame at the front.

Undo and remove the 10mm hex head bolt at the rear of the tank. The tank is now free to be lifted off BUT!!!

This is difficult to do on your own because first you have to lift up the rear of the tank and disconnect the four pin connector to the fuel pump and the sometimes problematic 'Quick Disconnect' fuel line fitting. That has to be pushed towards the red plastic elbow on the tank and at the same time the grey collar on the fitting pulled backwards before the fitting is pulled off. It is a bit like an air line quick disconnect. Be very careful as the red plastic elbow is fragile and easily broken.

Once that is separated you and your helper can remove the tank by lifting it up and back while your assistant spreads the sponsons so they clear the tank mounting knobs. Once clear the tank can be lifted off. Note this is a lot easier if the tank is nearly empty!

Has your engine been rollerised yet? If not there is little point in replacing the breather pipes as the top end is trashing itself.

Thanks Pete, that's exactly what I need, not least the right order for detaching the plastic bits. And thanks Kiwi Roy, for the advice about depressurising the fuel line. Great quick response, guys, thanks again—great website.
1980 Le Mans; 1998 Sport 1100 injection (60,000 miles from new); 2010 Sport 12004V.

There’s also the two breather pipes to disconnect. I’ve found having a short stack of 2x4 timber to sit the tank on (clear of the red fuel connector) high enough to keep the blingy ‘chrome’ plastic trims on either side of the forward tank off the ground ( they’re not made to support the tank, particularly with a bit of fuel inside).

Yup, good catch. I'd forgotten about the breather and drain. Separate them at the T piece.

Just a quick note to say thanks for the advice, guys, and to say the 1200 Sport tank removal (and even the tricky connector) all worked fine.
Refitting the tank was a bit of a struggle, though, as even with the tank sockets at the front pushed fully home onto the round rubber bungs, it was difficult to align the rear fixing bolt. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the tanks expand? Anyhow, next time it's off I'll shave a bit off the bungs to allow a little more forward motion. Does that make sense?

One thing I found was the ABS lines run above the right hand frame rail. They interfere with the inner aft right hand surface of the tank. It pushes the tank alignment out to the right I think. I've gently repositioned the lines out of the way. The tank slips on better now.

Riversider wrote:

Anyhow, next time it's off I'll shave a bit off the bungs to allow a little more forward motion. Does that make sense?

Smear the bungs with a rubber lubricant to make the refitting easier.

I use dialectric grease!     

double thumbs up for your avatar too btw Riversider , nice one....

do I see a t-shirt in its future...

My bike doesn't have ABS so the tricky lines weren't a problem. Everything was tucked away Ok on replacement, and the tank pushed as far forward onto the bungs as I could get it. But the rear fixing bolt in its sleeve still wouldn't line up. Used penny washers and left the two-part metal sleeve out (this lined up the bolt OK) went for a ride. But this needs to be sorted before too long. Thanks for the grease tip Kiwi Dave. I'll try that next.
Riversider

Riversider wrote:

Thanks for the grease tip Kiwi Dave. I'll try that next.
Riversider

It was sent with sarcasm.  Not a respectable product on this forum.  However, you can use vaseline or petroleum jelly to achieve the same thing if you're concerned.

Yeah, I remember the threads about dielectric grease. But if I go for this I'd use red rubber grease.
(This is beginning to sound vaguely  off-colour. Bunga bunga!)

You heard about the newly weds who couldn't tell the difference between vaseline and putty?










All their windows fell out!