Oil leak around Cylinder Heads @ only 250 miles!!

Plug tube o rings, cooling circuit banjo, breather plate o-ring, has it been over filled with oil? When was the airbox drained last?

Pete

Thanks Pete. Was serviced at 5000 miles - approx 700 miles ago then stored over the UK winter until I fired her up last weekend. I reckon oil started showing about 200-250 miles ago so about 450 miles after service. I know it was not there when I put her away for winter as I gave her a clean and would have noticed then. Not sure if the airbox was drained during service. Sounds like I better get the spanners out, remove the tank and start looking around to see what I can find. I will search on the forum for 'tank removal', plug tube 'o' rings, cooling circuit banjo, breather plate o-ring, and airbox draining! And see if I can follow instructions!
Thanks again - I will let you know how I get on!

Check your oil level. If it’s at the full end of the range drain a bit out. As for draining the airbox there are two tubes with rubber plugs that dangle under the bike. Pull the plugs out.

Open the air box and see if there is a lake of oil in there, if there is it’s either been over filled or not thrashed hard enough during its early life.

Pete

Thanks again Peter. I will take a look. I bought her with 1200 miles on in March 2017 and probably haven't thrashed her enough myself during the past 4500 miles! Dreading removing the tank after searching for posts about it and the comments about fuel connector/fuel pressure etc. Maybe I can just lift the tank with a couple of pieces of wood to hold the tank up whilst I poke my torch around and see what I can find underneath. Will have a crack at it at the weekend and report back.

On the backside of each top end, there is a round cover above the cam gears with a breather hose clamped on it. If that hose is broken around the fitting this may exactly look like what your pictures are showing. For a quick inspection if that's the reason for the leak you don't need to fiddle around with the tank but  take a glimpse behind the injectors with a torch. Had a similar problem with a loose clamp on the discribed hose on the left side after rollerizing.

Edit :
The first 2 pictures show the hose I'm speaking about. Is it broken on the upper side near the fitting or do I see unicorns?

Didn’t see the pics before. He’s right, looks like a breather hose is split. Replace ‘em both, the other one will be coming out in sympathy soon.

Pete

Thanks all. Will get busy with my inspection light over the weekend and see if I can reveal the split and then replace the hose if that is the cause of the leak. Will update you in due course.
And thanks again for all your help - those of us more 'mechanically challenged' need all the help we can get!

Cold weather and/or mice can wreak havoc during winter storage. Mice have chewed on both hoses and wires if things were left sitting unattended for an extended time. I literally mothball a bike before throwing a cover over it for the winter.

My weekend has been interrupted by royal weddings and domestic duties. Had a quick look with torch. Can’t see a split but seems to be originating from the area around the round cover/hose. Will investigate further. Probably best to remove lower side panel beneath tank to be able to see and access better. Many thanks to all for help.

I think it's already clear from the pics & it should take more than another 10 seconds to do without removing anything - just look/finger check the pipe in first picture (torch may help but can just look straight into it from side) and check whether any oil is coming from the 'cheese grater deterioration' on the neoprene pipe that goes into the cam shaft drive end/blowby pipe connector on the cylinder head....yours looks like it is under a lot of tension as well as being badly perished !.....

I checked mine (09 and original bits) and looks solid and sound & no oil - so can send you a pic of how it should look if it helps.....advice here for similar issues is buy oem pipe replacements as they are pre-shaped 180 bends on ends, else you need to be careful to buy right thickness/type and route generic replacements so you don't kink them and strangle the blow-by (=pressurising the crankcase = blowing out seals & other issues). Can also all be done with connecting elbows but won't look as nice

Here's pic of normal pipe

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Paul many thanks.I will re-investigate this weekend. Had a very quick look with torch but with thin oil coating everywhere its difficult to see exactly where its coming from, but I think you are probably correct and its the breather pipe. I'll order a replacement - who do you use for OEM Guzzi bits in the UK?

I buy from Fowlers if they've got it; Twiggers Loughborough; TLM in NL because they have lots of spares & no more expensive than UK on delivered parts; gutsi bits occasionally....TBH you'll probably have to go where they actually have some OR where they can be relied to order OEM bits....just find the parts numbers and trawl IOT for anyone with them....

It’s the breather. Split on top of hose just out from the connection. Took off side panel beneath tank and all is clear, well covered in gloop. Breather turns up and then goes horizontally towards steering head. Can get my stubby digits in to feel where it terminates or see how it fits at that end. Will call Fowler’s to see if they have an oem replacement. Will post photos Monday when at computer. Looks simple enough just access might be an issue and as a mechanically challenged type the prospect of removing more bits to get at it is fraught with danger!

I found out today I have the exact same oil leak, but on the left side. I think it was caused by the hose having expanded over time combined with the roller tappet conversion last month, as I could freely twist the hose and even almost pull it off with the clamp on it. The right side by comparison is snug and secure.

I cut off the bloated end of the hose and thankfully had enough hose left to reattach, though the original 'extremely annoying' clamp I could in no way reattach over the now much thicker hose. I tried for an hour then gave up and fitted one of those typical hose clamps which are tightened by a screw.

You might try the same, the hose isn't extremely flexible but it is somewhat, and I cut off as much if not more hose as you will need to judging from your pics. Also, on my bike at least the right side hose has more play than the left side, in which case you should easily be able to do this.

Worst case, you still need to buy a new hose.

I attached it with a screw clamp, usually used with garden hoses. No more problems since then.

2012 GRiSO. what do i need to look for when removing gas tank to replace oil pressure senser. step by step would be greatly appreciated. jtj

Remove battery and battery tray, remove wings, remove two bolts that hold front of tank being careful when you lift the tank you don’t loose the top hat washers/spacers between the tank and the plastic bling it sits on that surrounds the ignition switch.

Get assistant to help you lift tank so you can disconnect the breather and drain hoses, pump connector and then, without putting any sideways load on it or it will snap, disconnect the ‘Quick Disconnect’ on the fuel line.

Lift off tank and set down on something soft.

Pete

Photos of the split hose. Will try and find an oem replacement and replace both. Anyone know what I need to remove the clamp on the hose? Seems to have two small arrow shaped ends horizontally under the[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
raised metal ridge where the two ends meet.

Oetiker clamps. Single use only. Take a wee screwdriver and insert & twist.

Beetle, thanks. Am I best to replace with fresh Oetiker clamps or something else?