Hyperpro shock for GRiSO 1100

Have you figured out a way to remove the shock without having to remove the swingarm? I tried to do it the last time but it didn't seem easy...it was coliding with the swing arm and with the swing arm axle...
I didn't insisted much because I was removing the swingarm anyway...

Yes, simply lift the bike, remove muffler and footpegs, release the pushrod, the shock comes out from upwards on the muffler-side because swingarm go to its maximum extension.
Bre i think that swapping a 160-170mm spring is possible without removing the shock from the bike, simply releasing all the preload (obviously with bike lifted)

Mine is 170mm and it was assembled on the shock without having to compress the spring.

Great to read that both of you got your bikes back together! I had bottomouts with the stock spring and passenger (no luggage, but the Hepco & Becker C-bow racks mounted in the stated location), but without any marks on the tire. It is already uncomfortable enough to hit the rubber bump-stop hard.

Spring rate: I really researched the topic of spring rate values for the Hyperpro progressive shock spring - you don´t find any. The shop I bought my spring from replied that there is no value, as this spring is increasingly progressive. The more (pre)load you apply, the more the spring works in its stiffer parts (as you already soaked up the softer portion).

Compression damping: I can easily make the GRiSO bottom out the Hyperpro spring even when riding solo (approx. 85 kg with gear) - you just have to reduce the compression damping too much. For me the ticket to a good ride is a shock that mostly stays in the upper part of its travel, as it gets its job done without excessive use of travel. Rebound must be fast enough for the shock to be ready for the next hit, but slow enough the bike can´t wallow.

Solo vs. pillion riding: This is where the progressive spring really shines - if you want things to be perfect you could try 1 or max. 2 clicks more compression damping with passenger, but the preload does not need to be changed. I can confirm that even at my obviously little preload with passengers of 65-80 kg (including all riding gear).

EDIT: Always remember that we are NOT riding light bikes A lot of spring-"power" is already needed to keep the bike´s ass up. We only add 26-32% of system weight (distributed more or less evenly between fork and shock) when riding solo and literally are "the fly on the bull´s back".

hi, i could just do few kilometers to and back from the office.

Now i'm trying the bike with these settings
preload 22mm (calculated on spring compression)
comp: 1 1/3 turns out
rebound: 8 clicks from fully closed

just tried the bike solo and ride quality is pretty good.
I hope that it mantains also in couple rides but with some doubts.

I'm not very sure that the spring installed is really 100N/mm because there's no markings and wire tickness is the same of the original one (it's just shorter).
Anyway if i will experience troubles, next time i'll install myself a spring which i know (for sure) its specifications.

Hi, don't you find 8 clicks out on rebound too slow?
The manual recomenda 17, but even 17 seems too slow...
Have you tried giving a push down on the tail and see how it recovers....isn't it too letargic?
If a depression comes on the road, the wheel will not be able to follow it, and it the road is very bumpy the suspension gets "packed" and won't work any more...

Check this:

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Matias wrote:

Hi, don't you find 8 clicks out on rebound too slow?
The manual recomenda 17, but even 17 seems too slow...
Have you tried giving a push down on the tail and see how it recovers....isn't it too letargic?
If a depression comes on the road, the wheel will not be able to follow it, and it the road is very bumpy the suspension gets "packed" and won't work any more...

no, i'm running with 8 clicks from fully open, so they're 32 clicks out  [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

i made a mistake between closed and opened in my previous post [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Ok, now it makes sense....

Any occasions to test the new setup with your princess on the back seat?

I will go next monday for a week ride....me, my princess and this luggage ....[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

You got a girl that packs 15 litres for a week? She´s a keeper!!!

It was not easy in the beginning, believe me...
But now she understands the deligths of "travelling light"...

Light in the sense of her toothbrush, some underwear and your credit card?    I just came back from holidays with wife and 2 daughters: Upon picking my older daughter up she surprised us with a suitcase as big as the one my wife and I had packed, only heavier ... Thank god I´m good at Tetris.

"Light in the sense of her toothbrush, some underwear and your credit card?'"
Basically that...,,

I m currently traveling with top case installed, without passenger....
And no, i m not happy agaim with shock. Now it sits, despite it s fully preloaded.
This spring seems to be as soft as original one.
I now ordered a REAL ohlins 57/170/100 spring, will see...

After the experience with a linear spring you swap to another linear spring? I consider the ability to adapt to different weights the most important strength of progressive springs.

Did my first Ride duo+luggage today.
Still working on optimizing the settings, but definitely a great improvement comparing with the stock spring.
The suspension is smoother and never felt the rubber bump stop.

...and good cornering ....[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

When you get the Sachs shork working in the upper part of the stroke (mainly) without feeling wallowing or harshness, you can call it success. And suddenly the limited stroke of the stock shock is a problem no more ...

Hello boys, the repeated mentioning of your significantly higher spring preload got me thinking. So last week I gave the HyperPro spring on my Sachs shock more preload (from 10 mm of threads showing to an estimated good 15 mm). A few rides confirmed that there are only positive changes – the shock consumes less travel without becoming uncomfortable and is perfectly fine with my prior settings. Success!!!

I'm glad it worked for you.
According to Hyperpro, a good standard adjustment would give you a static sag of 15mm (check pict belle).
I check it by taping the end of a tape measurer to the carc logo on the axle, extend the measurer over the seat, block it and leave it hanging on the oposite side. I apply a small piece of tape to the body with a reference line.
Next I stand behind the up right bike and pull it up. As the bike goes up and down, the weight of the tape measurer keeps the scale tape stretched. Read the difference of values.
If you want to go a step further go for the rider sag.

The pics....[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

@Mathias: Thank you for your meticulous description. I have to confess that I´ve been doing my own suspension settings for years and also set up bikes for friends - but I never measured static or rider sag. It must feel ok and - even more important - match the other end, suit rider weight and the way the rider wants his bike to behave. Yes, I know that this is no scientific approach by any means ...