GRiSO 1100 rocker cover leak

Good day ...My GRiSO has developed a leak from the gasket , i can see it bleeding out when i removed the plastic guard...its coming from one of the bolts holding down the rocker /valve cover...Left cylinder..
I have tried search but .....
Anyway was wondering if there is anything i should know about replacing the gasket, and should i go stock or try aftermarket ..some one mentioned Real Gasket Company as they sell a silicone gasket supposed to be better than stock but i don't know
....if so part # ?
thanks for any help
Keener

Mine likes to leak out the right side.
I bought a couple from the dealer and keep a spare on hand.

DM

I have used both Guzzi and aftermarket , didn't see a lot of difference between them. Don't over tighten the screws, they will snap and then its down to how confident you are wielding screw extractors.

All the best
Pete

Just get bog standard 1100 gaskets - these work fine. Don't go for the Real Gaskets, they seal the first 2 or 3 times and then you can't get them oilfree enough to seal again - they need to be oilfree and dry - a bike hard on these bikes

It's part of maintenance guys... those gaskets just don't last.

I'd install new gaskets every other oil change (12000 miles)
I make my own from an OEM that I keep for mock up.
I just buy sheets of gasket material from my local part store that are slightly thicker than the factory ones and make them in advance.
All you need is a pair of good scissors and a set of hole punchers.
As of now, I have 2 sets pre-made so I'm not in a bind.
I wish there was a reusable rubber kind available for those engines though...

I'd had a few right side gasket failures on my 1100s. Every time I'd pop into Moto International for a new gasket, Dave (owner) would always comment that it seemed my left side boot oiler had failed yet again…

thank you all......... have ordered some mg gaskets and spares as well will get her done ...

I've had several bikes that seem to do this chronically. I have no idea why. I've tried different sorts of gaskets and still they tend to leak. I know that Mike Haven has been experimenting, successfully, with deleting the gasket and using sealant. I have yet to try this. If I do though I'll probably use Threebond 1211. You only need the thinnest smear.

Pete

Both Bellagio gaskets (black in colour and very thin) failed. They seemed to move over time as though they were being slowly squeezed out of shape, until they either broke or a gap appeared so that my refined molasses could escape.

I changed to the old style green coloured gaskets which are thicker, and haven't had an issue thus far.

I've tried old, new and aftermarket, they all go pop. What I can't fathom is why it only affects some machines and has never really been a problem on pre-CARC bikes???

Pete

Mine has also been one to pump oil & vapours into the airbox.
Crankcase ventilation maybe? [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

The green ones are the ones I use - haven't leaked (fingers crossed) after 3 services on the one set - yes re-usable. The original ones (1200 Sport and probably the same as the 1100 GRiSO) would go brittle in short shrift and perform the "oiling of the Boot" routine.

One day I had to ride into Sydney - bloke pulled up beside me and told me "did you know your radiator's leaking?) I just nodded - some people, just aren't worth the effort trying to explain things to. These were the "Real Gaskets" which were on their second use. I gave them one more go and now they are a shed ornament - "Offerings to the God of all things useless"

I have heard that some have success using two gaskets or doubling up , I dunno but it seems like that would be giving more path ways for leaks...

The thing is when u install a new gasket, and it seals.. and then down the road  it leaks.. so there must be an inherit problem with the material ...so a sealant as Pete has suggested maybe the solution ..

I had 3 valve cover gasket failures with my G11, all on the right side. The first time I had the local shop fix.They mentioned they were getting a lot of failures. Within 6 months I was back to oiling my right side boot. I removed the cover and discovered the gasket was cracked through at one of the 90 degree corners. I replaced it with gaskets off I believe a 1200 4V Norge. The gaskets were thicker. Again not long after that head was spewing again. I removed the gasket which was cracked at one of the 90 degree corners, cleaned it and placed it on back the head. With gasket in place there was a small gap where the gasket had cracked. It appeared that the gasket had shrunk slightly and to close the gap it would deform the rest of the gasket. Of course the sharp 90 degree corners were the likely points to break. So my fix was to smear 1211 on both sides of the gasket, place the gasket on the head, fill the gap with a little dollop of 1211 and then bolt on the valve cover. That was the end of my leaks. This fix (bodge) was also done on a friends 1200 Sport and issue was cured.

SO if the gasket shrinks as to heat cycles  it has to give someplace and it cracks causing a leak ..your 1211 filled the crack and you are good to go ....
So I would think that adding 1211 or similar at the on set should help the gaskets to last longer...
any opinions ?

I used 1211 on the gasket that failed. The problem is the shrinking will still occur and the 1211 won't stop that.
To do my version of the bodge you need a gasket that already has cracked (relieved itself of stress)...or you could induce your own crack.

frypan wrote:

I used 1211 on the gasket that failed. The problem is the shrinking will still occur and the 1211 won't stop that.
To do my version of the bodge you need a gasket that already has cracked (relieved itself of stress)...or you could induce your own crack.

Seems completely out of the box but then again that may be a solution

How about the 1211 or similar by itself ...

Having owned a few British bikes in my time, I have learned many techniques in the art of oil retention. You might try the following which I use on some sealing covers. Clean the valve cover thoroughly, place a thick smear of 1211 or other silicone sealant on the cover sealing face. Leave the valve cover aside until the sealant becomes tacky or semi dried. Wipe a light coating of oil on the cylinder head sealing face, then gently place the valve cover on the head. Use bolts only to position the cover, do not tighten them. Then place a light bit of pressure on the cover so that you can see the sealant is pushing out and has made contact all around, then release and let set overnight. you could use the bolts to hold it down, but finger tight only. Next day remove the cover and you should have a rubbery coating stuck to the cover and not to the head. If all looks good bolt the cover onto the head. Don't over-torque the bolts. Good luck.

I also have the recurring tappet/rocker cover oil leak (on my 850, but same heads/covers) What are the "green ones" mentioned earlier? and What are the correct torque settings? Maybe i am over tightening and squeezing the life out of them. I suspect the reason it happens on some and not others (i get both sides) is poor machining of the covers so they don't match up well to the heads. I also find the screws loosen themselves with the vibration i guess (or different heating and cooling rates of the heads/screws). Is the normal practice to use loctite on the screws?

Loctite on the screws shouldn't be necessary. Also the fact the screws tend to loosen is more to do with the gaskets crushing down in my opinion rather than the screws loosening.

Next time I get a chronic leaker in I'm going to try a thin smear of Threebond 1211 instead of the gasket to see if that will work.

Pete

ozoceanview wrote:

I also have the recurring tappet/rocker cover oil leak (on my 850, but same heads/covers)  What are the "green ones" mentioned earlier? and What are the correct torque settings? Maybe i am over tightening and squeezing the life out of them.

Sorry to be late to the thread, but, for the record, the specified torque setting is (and has always been) 10Nm.

Also for the record, even though I do use a torque wench, I have experienced a right-side gasket leak once in 22,000 miles. I use a little smear of oil on both sides when I install a gasket. I believe my leak was on a re-used one, and I recall it had a split when I opened it up.

Many tighten their valve cover bolts by feel, and I applaud their confidence.

Moto

frypan wrote:

Having owned a few British bikes in my time, I have learned many techniques in the art of oil retention. You might try the following which I use on some sealing covers. Clean the valve cover thoroughly, place a thick smear of 1211 or other silicone sealant on the cover sealing face. Leave the valve cover aside until the sealant becomes  tacky or semi dried. Wipe a light coating of oil on the cylinder head sealing face, then gently place the valve cover on the head. Use bolts only to position the cover, do not tighten them. Then place a light bit of pressure on the cover so that you can see the sealant is pushing out and has made contact all around, then release and let set overnight. you could use the bolts to hold it down, but finger tight only. Next day remove the cover and you should have a rubbery coating stuck to the cover and not to the head. If all looks good bolt the cover onto the head. Don't over-torque the bolts. Good luck.

I don't have much motorcycle experience but I have a ton of race car experience and I agree with frypan's method 100%. I pulled the valve cover and head from my FF every race weekend between qualifying and the race to touch up the valves. The valve cover was a PITA to keep leak free until we finally started using the method above. It is the only way to reliably reuse the gasket.

That being said, I am new to motorcycles. My entry level bike? A GRiSO of course (hence my being here). I live in northern Ohio but I purchased my 2006 GRiSO from a shop in Georgia. I flew to Atlanta, picked the bike up and headed back to Ohio. About 450 miles into the ride the right side boot oiler went into high gear    (it was bone dry at the start of the ride). We  stopped at an auto parts store, popped the cover off and saw the gasket cracked in several spots. I cleaned everything with brake clean (including the gasket), used RTV to seal everything up, let it sit for an hour and hit the road. The fix lasted about 10 minutes. The oil soaked gasket would not let the RTV adhere. At that point I just kept an eye on the oil level until we arrived at our hotel in the evening. I tore it apart again only this time I threw the gasket away and just used RTV. I let the bike sit overnight and it has been completely dry since then, about 1500 miles ago. I have two new gaskets sitting on the bench and when I get to it, I will install them as above. The only thing that concerns me is perhaps getting it back apart. I am sure it is 'glued' on pretty hard at this point so i am going to have to be careful to get it apart without damaging the valve cover. After looking at the small cross section of these gaskets, I would be reluctant to reuse one unless it was attached to the cover as per above. Even then, it won't last forever.

Tim

Welcome to the ghetto Tim, another Don Abbondio converted...

I didn't know who Don Abbondio was but the interweb brought me up to speed quickly. Fortunately, Italians had the great sense to name the good bikes after something with soul as opposed to going the easy route ala the 'VS-1325-XLR-VWXYZ' sort of thing..... Ahhh, now I am elevated to Bravi ! !

BUMP...for a good thread , I have had to replace the other side and since the last oil change no problems ...I use the green MG ones , Does any one else have a solution to this ?