Battery Tray Drain

Spotted this rubber pipe and Mr Roper said it was the battery tray vent hose.
Am thinking that plastic thing aint got no drain hose.
Am sure I've never spotted no way of connecting a hose and had the thing off several times.

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Just goes to show what you don't see when your not looking

the brass adaptor frequently pulls out when you remove the tray

Not sure it would catch anything if the battery split LOL

lcjohnny wrote:

the brass adaptor frequently pulls out when you remove the tray

Not sure it would catch anything if the battery split LOL

First time had ever seen a tray like that. Mine was crushed into its aperature.
You could see the yellow of the battery between the frame and the tank.
The drain pipe was not there otherwise would have spotted it.
The battery it seems is a finite fit.
Removed and used a heat gun to warm and soften and then the battery to remould it back to its original form.
Upon fitting found the best way was to fold/tuck the left and right top parts under the edge of the tank.
Use some electrical tape to smooth upper middle edge and stick it to the battery security tab.
I also squirt a small amount of wd40 into the tray and spread it around with my fingers to ensure a smooth re fit of battery.
Most hoses/drains were either not fitted correctly or were not fitted at all when obtained my GRiSO.

The water drain from the fuel cap is the only one I've completely given up on, it is bunged up from the top to the bottom.
Short of removing tank and bottom plate to gain access and hopefully clear it fix it permanently, including replacing corroded alloy fittings.
I dont ride in rain and rarely get caught in it, the tiny amount of water that sits in the recess is far less than the amount supplied in E10.
Also water in fuel causes a missfire and thats when lots more than that gets in.

Regarding the fuel cap trough drain -
you wont get at it from inside the tank it is all moulded in.

Some of the nozzles unscrew.... Mine turns but does not unscrew so need to fix it in situ
I cleared the metal nozzle at the bottom with a 1 mm drill in a hand chuck. (you need to be gentle and keep checking the depth against the other one because if you penetrate the moulding it may be hard to re-seal).

Once all of the corrosion crud is out of the metal, the stuff in the tube above it may clear with vinegar or coca cola (or even water)