Battery Drain

I'm measuring a drain of 0.18 amps (180 mA) through the 30A fuse that feeds the 4x 15A fuses and the 3A fuses.  This drain doesn't seem to be escaping through any of the other fuses, which makes me suspect the drain is via the instrument panel, although this is yet to be confirmed.

I expected a small amount of residual current, but this seems rather excessive to me.  Anybody else measured the residual current with the ignition off?

I did, I measured between the battery post and battery cable

1.60mA when the dash LED is off
1.89mA when the dash LED blinks

180mA is 100 times of mine... wow!

Thanks, Phang. My bike is still under warranty, so I'll let the dealer sort this out.

Just remembered something, cant recal how I got this info, not sure its trouth, trying it is easy and won't do any harm...

In some cases, after the electronics are powered up after the battery or the main fuse is conected, the dashboard gets "stuck" in the key recognition operation - so the imobiliser antena is always active, drawing current.

To overcome this, one should, as the first thing to do after conecting the battery or main fuse, turn the key to on, wait for the self test, do NOT start the engine, turn the key to off and remove it from the switch for at least a minute.

Thanks, Petros your method appeared to work. I'd forgotten about the immobilizer antenna, my keys were always stuck in the ignition switch in the off position when doing the measurements.

What prompted me to measure the residual current is I recently went on a vacation to the USA for a month, and forgot to hook up my preferred battery minder (15 minutes 4 times a day on a household electrical timer). The motor wouldn't turn over when I returned (no, I hadn't been riding other bikes!) and the battery was quite flat, more than expected. So, I did a ten day no tender as an experiment, and found the battery depleted (but able to start the motor).

avgpetro wrote:

Just remembered something, cant recal how I got this info, not sure its trouth, trying it is easy and won't do any harm...

In some cases, after the electronics are powered up after the battery or the main fuse is conected, the dashboard gets "stuck" in the key recognition operation - so the imobiliser antena is always active, drawing current.

To overcome this, one should, as the first thing to do after conecting the battery or main fuse, turn the key to on, wait for the self test, do NOT start the engine, turn the key to off and remove it from the switch for at least a minute.

That is extraordinarily interesting.

Electronics are magic beyond my ken.

Bill

I thought I knew a thing or two about electronics.  After my battery drain repair, I decided to tackle another problem that surfaced over the weekend ride.  My mode switch had stopped working, and no matter how much I fiddled (the LH heated grip cable was annoyingly close), I could not make it work.

When I went to diagnose the problem, I couldn't fault it.  Were the two issues related somehow?

People have turned to religion for lesser reasons than this!