2010 GRiSO 8v lifter inspection

Pete Roper rollerised my 2009 8V at 24,000km and the tappets were well and truly on the way out. Now at 82,000km and no further problems of that nature - it has to be done sooner rather than later. Buying a new engine doesn't bear thinking about.

Pete Roper rollerised my 2009 8V at 24,000km and the tappets were well and truly on the way out. Now at 82,000km and no further problems of that nature - it has to be done sooner rather than later. Buying a new engine doesn't bear thinking about.

To reiterate...

proitalia got the kit yesterday and will ship it to me today

The kit came Saturday and I'm reading Pete's dissertation on the job on Wildguzzi. There is a way to remove the valve springs by stuffing a long bit of line into the combustion chamber thru the spark plug hole and then turning the crank to stuff the line up in the head. This gives the valves something solid enough to rest on but won't harm anything as the spring is compressed enough to get the KEEPERS out. The kit came with 3 sets of head gaskets, different thickness for each set, so I'll just take the head off.

I'm beginning to feel brave now

The rope trick won’t work. Once you have removed the four nuts on the studs you’d be relying on the two 6mm bolts at the back of the camchain tunnel to retain the head and prevent it from lifting. That risks warping the head. Also the rope will prevent the piston being precisely at TDC increasing the risk of mistiming the cam on reassembly.

Pete,

if I understand this, the purpose of removing the head is to install the shims under the springs. If I can get the shims in without taking off the head, I don't have to bother taking the exhaust, or inlets off.

I'm still studying this job. I still havn't looked at all the parts in the kit. I'm going to take my time with this.

Yes, the purpose of removing the heads is to install the shims.

The thing is by the time you've got to the point that the cambox is off the only thing holding the head on to the barrel is the two bolts at the back of the camchain tunnel.

Removing the exhaust manifold requires the removal of two nuts and the loosening of one bolt. The inlet manifold requires the three bolts holding it on to be removed, then it just sits there as you lift the head.

Once the head is off putting in the shims is a piece of cake.

So why would you make your life much, much more difficult by trying to find some way to keep the head on the barrel with all the associated embuggerance and risk of dropping a valve into the cylinder, loosing a valve collet into the bowels of the motor or creating some sort of Heath Robinson set-up to keep the head in place that will simply increase the amount of time and risk of damage? What are you hoping to save? The cost of two gaskets per side and the time taken to loosen or remove six small fasteners? It just doesn't compute.

It's a bit like people who take their swingarm off without removing the bevelbox! People go to extraordinary lengths to avoid taking out/off a few more fasteners and it just makes the job a hundred times more complicated and risky.

maybe a trip to the dealer to get the TPS zeroed, I don't have a gizmo to do that

I've heard this trick done on aircraft, but on that engine the head and cylinder are a single unit and there is some FAA rule that if you remove a cylinder you have to have a AP do it and the cost goes to the sky

I haven't warmed to the local dealer. The last time I was there they had the front doors roped off. A customer has to wait outside for them to come out to talk to you and then they don't want to get close to you.

Fair enough in these times of Covid.

As far as remapping and doing stuff like a TLS reset gust buy the cables and download Guzzidiag and reader and writer. You need to remap after rollerisation anyway, even if you only opt for the 03 factory map which is, in and of itself, fairly pedestrian.

finally got the left head off

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and I've only broken one thing, the fuel line quick disconnect was fubar so I just cut the line

thats another $76 plus shipping added to my tab

There are ways around that.

Pete, anyone?

the C kit came with only 4 shims, pn 877847

These go under the intake valves? I thought there were shims for all valves

???

Nope. Only under the inlet valves. You're good to go.

one head done
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had to use a mill to remove the valves

it worked

That is one hell of a valve spring compressor!!

Does the job though!

Pete/all

My kit seems to be missing some parts. I only got one bag like this. And I don't understand what that clip is for. I guess it goes under the fasteners that hold the rockers in place but I can't figure out what orientation it should be in. 

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so the clip is the new ground for the valve cover? The original is pretty cheesy

Yes, Original is the one that turns with the old cam box bolt - see pic.   8 shape new one goes per other picture

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I think I was using elastic bands to hold the semi sphere ends on whilst fitting new cam box

You should have 2x eight shape tangs and four semi-spheres !

Paul,

of course I put the new ground in 180 deg, tang pointing up. And I used locktite but it was blue so I didn't have any problem taking it apart and putting it back together right.

The balls with the flat spot I just used wheel bearing grease to hold them in.

Yup. Sadly it's not uncommon for the kits to be missing parts or worse yet having the wrong parts. Missing the bag of hemispherical 'Pads' is tiresome enough, (I actually keep a set in stock for just this eventuality.) but it is really not uncommon for one to open up a kit and find two right hand or left hand camboxes! How the people who pack them can be quite so cretinous I have no idea?

I did have one kit that arrived with one assembled cambox and another, disassembled and incomplete cambox thrown into the main box with it! That was when I was a service agent and it was a warranty job. I went ballistic at the importer, (Although it wasn't really their fault.) and apparently when they contacted the factory they said I must of taken it apart and lost some of it! Bizarre!

I just got off the phone with Proitalia and they're looking into getting me the missing parts. The kit also didn't have the copper crush washers for the oil lines. I need four. The kit should have them. They can't cost that much.

my torque wrench is in storage so I'm not going to finish the left side until tomorrow. I got the head and the cam chain back on.

also just noticed one fork seal is blown. That probably happened when I had the bike on the trailer and the forks were compressed while I was towing it.