Not yet bought - looking for advice

Yes, the important thing is not to stress the plug cap at its right angle bend at the top. O no account tryand pull it up with pliers!

The trick is to get a long, thin, screwdriver and insert it into the cooling tunnel in the head just above the exhaust port. Poke around and you’ll feel the end contact the rubber of the cap. You can then slip the end of the blade under the edge of the cap and lever it up off the plug, (Obviously the little badge on the lead cover and then the cover itself need to be removed before you can do this.).

Once the cap is popped off the top electrode of the plug it should pull out of the plug tube in the head easily enough and then the cover can be removed by simply undoing the four retaining bolts and lifting the cover off.

Plenty of pics on the Ghetto of the difference between the appearance of flat and roller tappets.

Pete

Pete Roper wrote:

The trick is to get a long, thin, screwdriver and insert it into the cooling tunnel in the head just above the exhaust port. Poke around and you’ll feel the end contact the rubber of the cap. You can then slip the end of the blade under the edge of the cap and lever it up off the plug.

I've used this technique (thanks, Pete) but found it necessary to employ a reusable cable tie around the wire end of the cap to complete the movement.  It helped to lift the cap off straight.

So I missed that one - the guy didn't seem to keen on me popping the covers off, nor giving me any service history details.  He messaged me the next day to say that the selling dealer had assured him that the engine was fine & he'd sold it.  It was a bit to close to the changeover for me, & (if I'm being cynical) under-priced for the  mileage.

I'm aiming to take a spin up to Doncaster tomorrow to have a look at a 2015 reg with 10000 miles, under £7000.  Engine number is 14648, so well into safe territory.  Full dealer history, with an after-market exhaust & seat.  It's in red, but I can live with that

Red is one of the faster GRiSO’s

I did not know that !

Funny in the Sport, the black ones are faster! Talk about a mixup.

Wow - who'd believe it. You learn something new everyday !

Oz1200Guzzi wrote:

Funny in the Sport, the black ones are faster! Talk about a mixup.

Well, maybe.........

Sent from Topic'it App

my black one is the fastest......when i am riding it!

he red ones do look nice though there was one at the last UK cabal and looked great

So I had a lookie at the red one yesterday. 2015, 10000 miles, full dealer history.
Looks like the previous owner spent some money on it - Agostinii exhaust, bullet indicators, bar end mirrors, heated grips, chrome air-filter (?) cover, S S. lines, £6800. They're delivering it on Thursday - expect more questions !

Chrome air filter cover???

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Guessing that's what the shiny bit on the side is - it'll be powder coated black by winter

Ummm? That's the oil cooler.......

Never seen one till yesterday, only spent 15 minutes looking at it - like I said, expect questions ! The bike it replaces is 17 years old - only just into the century

I thought they all have braided brake lines.

Looks lovely, some small updates to it and you will love it!!!

Bear in mind, I've moved from a bike where rubber & plastic was standard. Hoping someone can point out what's standard & what's extra. There's an imobiliser - is that standard ? Also found a USB port on the head-stock cover

There is an immobiliser as standard. USB fitting would be an add-on. Probably the most important thing will be to make sure the throttle stop screw on the LH throttle body still has its paint intact and hasn't been moved.

it looks lke it missing two cylinders, it should be a V4

no sorry ignore the previous quote, silly me, that was the old 1100 version the 1200 is an 8V you will have seen the stickers on the tank and side panels, therefore it should have 8 cylinders!

Ah - geddit

only here to help :-)

What's the issue with the throttle stop screw ?

The W5AM system relies on throttle angle alone to judge how much air is passing into the engine and then calculates from there how much fuel to throw in. The throttle bodies are set up on a flow bench at the factory and the throttle stop should never be adjusted.

Idle speed is stepper controlled with the target idle coded into the ecu. On the 8V's target is 1250rpm + or - 50rpm. Some people think this is 'Too high' so they try and lower it by messing with the stop screw. This is a costly mistake.

Pete

Thanks for that
Pete. I'm thinking of taking a run down to Twiggers in Loughborough & ask him to have a look over it - it's been off the road for a couple of months & was last serviced last year at 7000 miles, it's now at 10000 so I guess it's ready for a service. The selling dealer is changing the oil & filter for me.

Being new to bikes with so many electronics, I'm guessing that it'll suffer from battery drain. I have an old Optimate (about 16 years old !!!), so I'm guessing it's about time for a new one. What are other people using on theirs ?

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I powder coated mine, like it much better.