GRiSO running on one cylinder?

Im slowly getting my head around what needs to be done.  

Heres a picture of the right hand side flinger, I'm assuming I need to rotate this (not the cam, just the plate) so the holes don't line up with the pins. Is my assumption correct?

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Jesus guys! Talk about over-thinking it! Honestly I can set a cylinder up to within about 5 degrees of TDC by feel! As far as setting valve lash as long as the tappets are on the base circles of the cams it doesn't matter where the bloody piston is in the bore!

Pete

I use the straw method. I don't have a TDC Mark. I'm a mechanical numpty and yet my GRiSO runs perfectly. It's dead simple.

davper wrote:

Heres a picture of the right hand side flinger, I'm assuming I need to rotate this (not the cam, just the plate) so the holes don't line up with the pins. Is my assumption correct?

Yes, the flinger holes should line up with threaded holes. If the pin has disengaged from the timing sprocket you'll need to re-align the sprocket.


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Really there's no need for the flinger ring holes to line up with anything. The important thing is that one of them doesn't line up with the pin!

Why the sprockets have threaded holes in I'm not sure? The only assumption I can make is that if for some reason the sprocket sticks to the cam, (Not something I've ever experienced mind.) you could wind a couple of bolts in there and push it off.

As for the locator pin? The flinger just has to be in such a position as to prevent it from slipping out and disengaging from the camshaft. The lateral forces on it are negligible.

Pete

Something like that, Pete. The SM says to line them up.


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Interesting pic of the prototype motor. I suppose that lining the flinger up like that would ensure that the peg is covered. To me it just seemed obvious but I suppose I've been doing this stuff longer than most.

Pete

I think I can claim great success. Took apart, realigned and reassembled. I must say I was surprised how easily the cam pin slid into place, i expected a tighter fit.

When I checked the valves the intake was spot on and the exhaust was a tiny bit too tight, about .01mm. Started up and idled just fine, sounded normal. Im going to finish buttoning it up and hopefully take it for a quick ride tonight to see how it feels. I think I escaped valve damage......luckily.

Without your knowledge and patience I would have had to use the dealer for the repair, while their mechanic is actually really good they are also really expensive.

Thank you all for your help.
Dave

Sounds like you've had a lucky escape. You have checked both sides haven't you? Be a pain to do one side and then find out the other one has the same problem!

Pete

Yes, checked both sides. All valves are happy.

The fuel tank is my enemy right now. I've had this tank off a couple times and it was never easy to reinstall but I've been wrestling for nearly an hour. Non of the four mounting points want to line up. Any chance this nice plastic tank is distorting from the fuel or age? It shouldn't be this difficult to put back on.

davper wrote:

Yes, checked both sides.  All valves are happy.

The fuel tank is my enemy right now. I've had this tank off a couple times and it was never easy to reinstall but I've been wrestling for nearly an hour. Non of the four mounting points want to line up. Any chance this nice plastic tank is distorting from the fuel or age?  It shouldn't be this difficult to put back on.  

Glad you fixed it

About the tank, ethanol is the problem:

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And check the oil fling on the other side as well to make sure the holes are not lined up with the pin.

I did check the other oil flinger before, I posted a picture earlier in this thread questioning the orientation. It was oriented fine.