1100 oil pressure sensor

Pete Roper wrote:

Sorry. Being a grouch. Spent the day around the western side of the bottom of Lake Como. Anyone who wonders why the Europeans are so concerned about pollution should visit here and just look! Despite having the tightest regs in the world the sky is still brown and the views are covered by smog unless there is a strong wind blowing.

Euro 5? Bring it on! If humans aren't clever enough to build clean vehicles perhaps it's time to hand over to the cockroaches! Sure some of the current rules are silly in their simplicity but as a rule they WORK! I'm more than happy with the performance of my *Everyday* vehicles that meet regulations easily! For my 'Fun' machines? Well? Fun has a price. A price many are unwilling to pay. Therefore *Cheating* will remain the province of the few and will be ignored as it isn't the source of the *Problem*.

Quiet and clean! What could be better?

Pete

No problem at all...
Canada has still, a lot of .. Quiet and clean ..I was there for it this summer...and your right nothing is better..

Pete Roper wrote:

As your engine is after KS13769 it has the later trochoidal pump. The one that caused problems on a few Norges.

keenerkeen07 wrote:

interesting ...thought to check my engine serial # as well  it is KS 014272 ...6 Digits instead of five , do you use the 0 as part of the sn# or is the sn# KS 14272 ,  had to ask

Mine is 013885.  I guess it means I am safe?        

Didn't see any "KS".

885 was after 769 when I learnt to count so your bike has the trochoidal pump.

Don't turn this into a hair-tearing panic though for fuck's sakes! As I said there was a small batch of duff pumps back in the day. To the best of my knowledge they all went into one short run of early Norges that all seem to be red. I can't remember ever having heard of the shattered outer rotor issue on another model but I thought it worth mentioning because one of the symptoms those bikes displayed was the dreaded 'Oil Can of Death' icon. Also given Guzzis haphazard habit of flinging stuff together without any sort of logical sequence it's possible that one of the duff pumps may of been found on a shelf somewhere and ended up in a GRiSO by chance!

Thing is 95% of all oil pressure/oil light related issues are related to the wretched switch or its connector so it's always worth checking that first. After that it's worth dropping the sump and spacer on pre 2015 CARC bikes, (Bellagio excluded.) as a bit of gasket may of been spat out around an oil gallery, (Seen that twice and John at Motocicolo in Sydney called me up one day when he was having an oil pressure warning on a bike. I advised him to check the gaskets and sure enough that's what it was on that bike.). Only after those things have been checked and/or changed would I tear into the timing chest to check the oil pump. I mentioned it simply so people can be aware. It is NOT something that is a common fault or likely to be a problem.

Pete

Pete Roper wrote:

I mentioned it simply so people can be aware. It is NOT something that is a common fault or likely to be a problem.

OK, that is very clear.  Thanks Pete!



Oh, and BTW my math skills are OK, but due to age, lack of sleep, abuse of alcohol, or all of the above, my reading skills are apparently not what they once where.  I read/understood your line  "As your engine is after KS13769 it has the later trochoidal pump" as "As your engine is before KS13769 it has the later trochoidal pump".  My bad.

About the oil sensor failure at dashboard power up - without starting the engine: after having 3 sensors replaced i gave up, some years ago. AT MY BIKE its obviusly the crapy cable connection that gets loose-dirty, adding some resistance to the circuit. Only when my battery is fully charged, this resistance is not enough to give a fault - so for me, the oil light has dual use: "oil problem" if it turns on (from off) whille the engine runs, "battery gets low" if it turns on before starting the motor.

Hi Guys,

Sorry for taking ages to get back on this (moving jobs, towns, house etc) bike been in storage and have only just got round to doing this.

Advise spot on from all thanks

I got a new sensor with the new connector type, whipped off the left hand header and with the help of a head torch located the dratted thing in the bowels of the V.  The connector was dodgy so cleaned it up but no joy, so ended up replacing. Fiddly but easy job in the end and you have to be careful when putting the new one in that you dont drop it into the V and have to fish it out with a bit of bent wire (dont ask !!!!) got there in the end and Bingo no more nasty warnings.  Happy as a happy thing.

Its a 21mm open face spanner you need

Thanks for all the tips

Mike

Pete Roper wrote:

As your engine is after KS13769 it has the later trochoidal pump. The one that caused problems on a few Norges.

If my engine number (on my 2006 GRiSO 1100) is KS013173, do I have to start to worry, Pete? Or are really only (red) Norge's concerned?

My OPS failed, ah, catastrophically. As in it cracked down the center and was absolutely pissing oil.
As in the bike was unsafe to ride, and would empty the crankcase in a few mins anyway.

Never saw anything on the dash. Zip.

My notes are shite but I think this is the BMW car-motor OPS that cross-references, is way cheaper, and should be available locally: 12 61 7 620 512

VERIFY the connector. The BMW car part *should* fit as is. Apparently a lot of these went to shit so Gooz changed it, requiring the cutting of the pigtail and installation of a new and different connector. Fuck you Gooz. Just. Fuck. You.

Oh and dont waste your time, just pull the tank.

oops, that's what I get for not reading EVERYTHING. Mah bad. BMW part still a money and hassle saver.