Oil Pressure Sensor

Well eventually got around to tackling lifting the tank, disconnecting the quick release fuel line and changing the oil pressure sensor.
It actually went pretty well, maybe just lucky.

This is how I done it and it may be of some help to someone else!

1. Take off side wings with Guzzi badge on them, on the right hand side you will then be able to see the electrical connection plug for the fuel pump. Disconnect this and then try and start the engine (it wont start) for 3 or 4 seconds as this will relieve the pressure in the fuel line.

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2. Lift the seat and pull main fuse and disconnect the battery and remove. You can then remove the two lower bolts holding down the tank, also undo the drain hose from battery compartment. Then undo and remove the two upper bolts holding the tank at the ignition switch.

3.Gently lift the tank a few inches at the top and slide a piece of timber underneath, then do the same at the bottom of the tank, you can see how much timber I used in photo.
Then undo the drain from tank overflow at bottom of tank.

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4. You can now reach in to disconnect the fuel line quick release coupler. I found that if I stood on the right hand side of the bike (as you sit on it) and reach in with your right hand and grab the grey connector while at the same time reaching across the tank and coming in from the other side with your left hand to catch the red elbow you get a good grip to loosen the coupler. I just pulled back on the grey coupler and off she came without any great bother. I MAY HAVE JUST BEEN LUCKY  

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5. Remove the tank and support it safely on some timber on a bench so as to keep the red plastic elbow from having any weight on it.
I then blew out any dust and crap that was resting in the engine V. I disconnected the electrical connection from the Oil Pressure Sensor and removed it using a spanner.

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6. I replaced the oil pressure sensor with one that is used in a BMW car. I put everything back together carefully and took her for a spin, Everything seems fine and the dreaded Service Triangle with the red oil can, hasn't appeared as of yet

7. Then I got a rush of blood and checked the valve clearances, balanced the TB,s reset the TPS and changed the oil +filter. Running Great

I hope this was of some help to others as I have gotten a lot of information and help from people on the site. Keep her lit,

Thanks GC
I will have to remove tank in the upcoming future to check the internal fuel pump/filter lines clamps, I'm told that these have given problems to some in the past.
Some have also had issues with this quick release, your post has given me some confidence, thanks.
Stay safe
Caoi

Thanks for posting the steps w/ pics. GC! I'm sure that will come in handy!

Thanks for the clear pictures and detail steps.

I can even see the marking on the cylinder head in the third picture which indicated you have shimmed intake valve springs

Nicely done, Guzzi Cat!

Hi, what Oil Pressure switch did you use to replace this one?

wardentm wrote:

Thanks GC
I will have to remove tank in the upcoming future to check the internal fuel pump/filter lines clamps, I'm told that these have given problems to some in the past.
Some have also had issues with this quick release, your post has given me some confidence, thanks.
Stay safe
Caoi

If you should have difficulties with that tank, Trev, you are quite welcome to give me a ring & we can talk you through it - I'll text you with my current phone number. A scant squirt of silicone lube on the QD coupler before reassembly makes it easier to remove next time.

Tommy-S wrote:

Hi, what Oil Pressure switch did you use to replace this one?

It has been a while since I replaced mine but I think it was a BMW #1546836 car oil pressure sensor, will check in my garage notebook when I get home,

I like your technique of propping up the front and rear of the tank. If you just lift the rear, it's easy to kink the fuel line, and it doesn't fully recover as it's made of hard plastic for some reason. I ended up replacing my fuel lines as a result of that. I avoided that problem by first removing the injectors so that the fuel lines could move, but I'll try the two-by-four propping method next time!

Thanks Guzzi Cat,

Need to replace my pressure switch this month ready for Summer

Good job and as already mentioned great to have pictures

BTW, my favorite way to support the tank, wille having it removed, is on the edge of something flat (a brick maybe?), based on the flat surface the tank has, just in front of the fuel connector and under its front mounting bolts. Meaning its front facing down, and its rear hoses conectors facing up. It sits nicely, and safely - unless somebody pushes it.

Having the tank sitting like that, turning the fuel conector elbow backwards (to point up), no gas is spilled even with full tank.

Thanks for this post and the photos! Today, on a quick trip to the bank the oil can light came on every time I stopped at a light. Once moving no issues but it looks like I'll have to tackle this job and your post will come in handy. Wasn't even that hot out and oil levels are good, and of the right type so from what I can tell from reading other posts here, the easiest and most likely culprit is the sensor.

The parts catalog indicates that the part number is "978854-Pressure sensor" but I noticed on AF1's site they mention "*Moto Guzzi Owners: Please note: The 1000cc, 1100cc, and 1200cc engine can have an M10x1.0 oil pressure switch (like the one in this ad) or an M12x1.5 Oil Pressure Switch."

Their site says it will take 4-6 weeks to get one listed in the MG Part catalog so that kills what's remaining of my summer unless I remove it and discover it's the M12 version which they have in stock. Any other options from an auto parts store etc? Will any ole' sensor work so long as the M# is the same? I don't really want to have to do any wire cutting, splicing, etc., to make the new one work if I can avoid it...rather just plug-n-play. Is it something I could just take to a local auto parts store to find a replacement?

I appreciate any tips or suggestions from the group. :-) Thanks!

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The oil pressure sensor for a BMW 1 series car, just like in the link above should fit, or get a genuine BMW sensor for the 1 series

Follow up...I made it to the red gas stem...bit am struggling with the coupler...should I pull it away from the red stem or push toward it?

Push the line towards the fitting while pulling back on the grey coupler

Thanks Guzzi Cat! That did the trick. No oil around the sensor but the connector was a wee bit wiggly. I suppose I'll order up a new one since the tank is off. Side note, all the tank bolt threads were stripped...!! I think the female threads are good still so looks like I'll be making a trip to the hardware store to find replacements. Why did Luigi not put any grease on these threads? Ugh!

Thanks for this post and the photos! Today, on a quick trip to the bank the oil can light came on every time I stopped at a light. Once moving no issues but it looks like I'll have to tackle this job and your post will come in handy. Wasn't even that hot out and oil levels are good, and of the right type so from what I can tell from reading other posts here, the easiest and most likely culprit is the sensor.

Those symtoms sound like a gasket problem on the sump.

I'd certainly be checking the spacer to block gasket with this one, and sooner rather than later.....

Pete Roper wrote:

I'd certainly be checking the spacer to block gasket with this one, and sooner rather than later.....

Well my new sensor arrived today and just now saw your message. What is the "spacer to block gasket" where is it and how involved of a project is it? My mechanical skills are novice. Also, should any grease be used on the threads of the new sensor? Original one was dry.
Thanks for the help.

DW, this is the gasket between the spacer above the sump and the bottom of the block. It is a known issue. You will need a spacer gasket and a sump gasket and around 30 minutes to do the job. Cost is around $25 in this neck of the woods (quoting the Pacific Peso here - AKA Aussie $).

If you look at this diagram.

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You can see the two gaskets. 15 is the one that presents problems around the oil delivery galleries, 17 is simply the sump gasket.

Getting the sump off is easy. 14 bolts around the periphery of the sump and four more up in the 'Pit' the filter sits in. Once that is off you need to remove the oil pick up strainers and a couple of other bolts after which the spacer will drop off. If it doesn't you've missed a bolt somewhere. Reinstallation is simply a reverse of removal.

Pete

Thanks for the info! Ordered up the gaskets and hope it goes well. Never embarked in this type of work before. I'm guessing I can do this with the bike up on the center stand? Unfortunately, I still can't test to see if my new pressure sensor was the fix because I forgot to order a new aluminium crush washer for it. Ugh!

Update- I installed the new pressure sensor, put it all back together, took her for a nice long ride with some stop and go traffic and no oil light so my guess is that fixed the problem. At least now I have the two gaskets for the sump on-hand in the event that the issue arises again. On a side note however, mother f#ck*n tank bolts were a giant PITA! To begin with, when I removed them the bolt threads were a bit stripped, and getting them back in was hell. For whatever reason, the top holes on the tank by the ignition switch did not align correctly with the mounting bracket. I was able to get them in but I fear they are cross threaded now. Has anyone had a similar issue? I feel like I've read somewhere else here that someone had a similar issue once.