Canister-ectomy

In theory not but since when you disconnect the canister you interfere with the breathing slightly it would seem sensible to me to re-balance the throttle bodies. If you do that then yes, a tps re-set is vital.

Gents,
Last Friday Cognosticator and I did the swing arm service. Since the rear was completely apart we decided to do the canister-ectomy too. What we ended up with is the throttle bodies connected to each other with a vent hose and the rest of that mess is gone. There is still the vent hose coming from the tank through the (blue) tip-over valve down to the bottom of the bike (no pinching that I see).That was previously connected to the canister.
My issue is this; the bike has always moaned some after a hot ride - since new. But after the canister removal it's really increased in frequency of the occurrence and loudness. As soon as I open the gas tank, it stops. If I close the tank, it goes back to making noises for quite some time. Yesterday it even made a couple of sounds when I went into the garage and I hadn't ridden in in 24 hours. It was about 93 degrees in the garage. Any ideas on how to cure this? I can deal with some of this like before but it feels like it needs to be addressed. Many thanks!

John

Get rid of the tip over valve.
Pete clued me in to this as part of the canisterectomy. Pre-canister removal, the noise was so loud that I thought the fuel pump was running.
A 1/4" (I think, maybe 3/16") brass male-male hose barb will take its place and clean up the bike's look.
I regularly top off and park it hot in my garage, and have never had a drip of fuel come out of that hose.

Mbeach,
Many thanks for your reply. So logical question is; what happens if we drop or tip over the bike without this prevention valve? I've never done either so it's a hypothetical I suppose.
Thanks again.

The engine keeps running. As I am Sir Crash-a-lot, I wouldn't remove it.

Just to be clear, I’m talking about the blue/orange valve that sits above the rear brake fluid reservoir, not the fall sensor.

The what now?

Do you mean the tank breather non-return valve?

Yup, that's the one. Mana's use the same valve and the early ones were faulty, they wouldn't allow the tank to vent which on the Mana was a real problem as the tank is under the seat. As the tank swelled it would rub on the rear wheel and eventually, if unaddressed, the tyre would rub through the tank! . With predictable results!

Pete

I usually pull them apart and remove the internal valve and reassemble.

The breather hose remains, just not the sticking valve in the circuit.

Not wanting to toss another wrench in the works . . . but . . . is there any possibility this could be ignition related? I've personal experience with carbureted bikes, chasing my tail on a fueling issue only to find it was an ignition issue. Usual suspects: spark plugs, plug wires, ground(s), wiring, and of course component replacement.

Start with the simple easy to get to stuff.

Hope you chase this gremlin down.

"Do you mean the tank breather non-return valve?"

"Just to be clear, I’m talking about the blue/orange valve that sits above the rear brake fluid reservoir, not the fall sensor."
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Mbeach, Beetle and Pete, Thank you.
We are talking about the blue and orange valve. I think the reason the noise got considerably louder (duh) was that in taking out the canister, I essentially removed the muffler that the hose was going into. Pete's comment about faulty valves causing the tank to swell on a Mana was interesting. My tank swelled after the first year and I replaced in with another tank that I lined with Caswell Expoxy first. Probably not related but you never know. I'm going to install a 1/4" (ID) -5/16" (OD) hose barb as suggested by Mbeah via Pete. That should be the end of the story.
In the last 3 months, the bike has been Beetlized (map), Roperized (swing arm service) and had a canister-ectomy. So, things are looking up. Thanks again to all and the Cognosticator who made all of this possible.

There's a rollover valve integrated into the fuel cap assembly (take it off and blow through the ports while flipping the cap assembly upside down, you'll see how it works). You can safely remove the blue/orange part, which is a low cracking pressure bi-directional valve, the source of the buzzing noise some find offensive when the thing is venting. In theory, leaving it in place after removing the rest of the EVAP system would prevent our ethanol-laden fuel from being continuously exposed to atmosphere, absorbing moisture which is not so great for the nylon tanks. However, it's also a potential failure point (not so great if the thing sticks!) and you'll still get the burst of fuel blowing out around the cap any time it's opened, from the small amount of pressure still stored in the tank.

My own experience with the system was that it allowed a considerable amount of pressure to be stored in the tank, which was already showing cracks in the paint from day one. Hot starts were terrible due to the engine choking on fuel vapors for the first minute or so, and fuel pressure changes would do funny things to the idle speed. However, some people don't seem to have these problems.

Thank you Leone. I moved from Houston to Savannah, GA about 2.5 years ago and most always use non-ethanol gas now. It wasn't attainable in Houston. Savannah is by the GA coast so most boaters don't want ethanol. So if some atmosphere wants to sneak back up to my tank, it won't find ethanol in it and I also lined my tank with epoxy before I left Houston.
I appreciate the explanation for the valve.

Reviving a slightly older thread.

I removed the canister on my 2015 GRiSO a few weeks ago, and am pondering 3 alternatives, pending advice from the cognoscenti of Canisters here.

Rather than removing all of the hoses as I may at some point decide to return it to stock, I am considering 3 alternatives.

1.  Plugging each of the two large black hoses which are no longer connected to the canister.
2.  Connecting the two large black hoses together with a plastic or brass barb.
3.  Leaving them unplugged (they do have a slight vacuum pull with the engine running, so I presume this is not a great idea.

Which of the 3 would be acceptable - should I expect any side effects of doing 1 or 2 or 3?

Thanks...planning on taking the GRiSO instead of the Norge up this year to Cedar Vale, Kansas for Dusty's fun event.  It's a nice 600 mile run up 1 way if I do the straight route, can be 700 with some fun thrown in thru Texas, Oklahoma and parts of Kansas, then a few days of playing around in Arkansas for 3-4 days of hyper fun twisties and then 600 miles back to Houston.  Bike is running flawlessly with a Beetle map, gets regularly 40 mpg and has oodles of power on demand, but is comfortable just loping along like a cheetah at 60 mph until a burst of speed is needed.

Thanks guys!

<<you can leave the tip over valve in the line if you plan on leaving the GRiSO laying on its side a lot it will keep fuel from leaking out of the overflow slowly... when you crash up side down with a full tank and are pinned under the thing...>>

This happened to me just this week. I was loading the bike to go visit a friends shop and spend the day tinkering on the GRiSO. While strapping it down, I accidentally released a strap I was tightening, and the bike pinned me to the floor. No damage to the bike, but I have a very sore hand.

Read all of this and still do not see a pictorial for the GRiSO. I would think just plugging the return line to the TB would work fine. Especially on a new bike. Just plug it right where you cut it off the canister. Flow-wise, it is almost identical to tying them together and much easier.

Don't know where to start.....Saturday, I was listening to an old radio show many may be familiar with in the U.S. "Car Talk". It was on public radio here in the US for many years. This show is not live anymore as one of the two brothers that do the show passed away in 2014.
Anyway, if you internet search "Car Talk show # 1649" at about 27 minutes into a 53 minute show, you'll hear a pretty interesting explanation of our charcoal canister issue on the U.S. GRiSO's. Of course their explanation is around a car issue but wow it sounded so similar. Sharing here as you might get some enjoyment out of it....

Ah, yes. Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers. Great a great show.

JohnA wrote:

Don't know where to start.....Saturday, I was listening to an old radio show many may be familiar with in the U.S. "Car Talk". It was on public radio here in the US for many years. This show is not live anymore as one of the two brothers that do the show passed away in 2014.
Anyway, if you internet search "Car Talk show # 1649" at about 27 minutes into a 53 minute show, you'll hear a pretty interesting explanation of our charcoal canister issue on the U.S. GRiSO's. Of course their explanation is around a car issue but wow it sounded so similar. Sharing here as you might get some enjoyment out of it....

Mm...only one of the brothers passed in 2014, but the show was retired.
Originated from the "Good News Garage" in Cambridge Mass (Our Fair City, in C/T terms).
About Good News Garage

Per the diagram above does anyone know where hose 11 is connecting and is it a drain or pulling vacuum. I need to know if I should plug it or not. If vacuum it should be plugged I assume. Thanks.

Hose 11 is pulling vacuum. Plug it or cap the spigot on the airbox. That's assuming you're performing a canisterectomy on a V7 Classic, which is what that diagram is for.

The trouble with the diagram previously posted is that it does not depict a GRiSO system, rather one of a V7 I believe(?)
Refer to the diagrams below to understand how the GRiSO Evap system is plumbed and where you want to land by eliminating it.


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Perfect. So when I pulled my canister there were three lines. The one to the intake I removed and capped the intakes with two button screws and copper washers. The other two hang to vent or as in your diagram combine and vent.