Oil Pressure Sensor

Yep. The right side on mine is slightly misaligned. I've had to replace mine after the left (!) screw got a bit dodgy. My workaround is to lift the tank slightly to allow both screws to engage properly. Once the screws are engaged, I let everything "self align" as I nip up the screws.

Just changed my oil pressure sensor to fix oil leak.
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Originally thought it was crankcase grub screw leaking but after looking harder & pulling tank it was clearly the oil sensor.....weirdly, after spending ages getting deep reach 21 mm socket, the sensor was light-finger tight (it's supposed to be 24 nm) there was no washer either...so amazed it's taken 10 years and 36k miles to start leaking.
Thanks Guzzi Cat for the MR Auto link BTW …sadly BMW dealer couldn't find the right sensor despite giving them the same model/year that finds the right one on Mr Auto & Euro parts site ….BMW parts guy said they needed the registration or VIN number of the car to be sure..... So got £10 one from Euro Parts.
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Only issue was BMW one is 23mm and very deep head; so had to tighten it to approx 25 nm torque with mole grips turned using adjustable spanner (not my best engineering moment)...

Hi Guzzi Cat and all, yes I had a similar issue with the oil light coming on at low revs and traffic lights. Oil level is okay so ordered a new sensor. Yes, Ive had the tank off before and yes one of the bolts was stripped and if you replace that bolt and put that in first, it'll strip the other as the holes don't line up properly. 30 sec job takes much care and replacement bolts and wiggling for an hour, yes PITA!

quick release fuel pipe, my arse! Ive had the tank off before but the photos and the tip about removing the fuel pump connector and turning over (no start) are much appreciated and interesting by way of removing fuel pressure. Didn't work tho and was impossible to remove despite gentle wiggling until the red 90 deg fuel pump spigot broke....... Grrrr. so now I have two issues!

1. Broken pipe - fortunately Gutsibits in the UK sell a replacement fuel pipe spigot £27 so I'm now waiting for that. Question? has anyone broken and replaced this? I have removed the fuel pump plate under the tank and removed a grub screw which seems to be holding the spigot in place but it still won't shift, any tips? I will of course be applying some silicon spray to facilitate easier removal next time.

2. Oil pressure sensor - the spade connector was very loose on the unusual pillar type brass connector which may have been the fault but I'm going to install the new sensor sources from Gutsibits. However, no leaks but no crush washer, aluminium or copper. Also replacement part discontinued so new item sent but thread is a different size and now needs an adaptor awaiting delivery Grrrr. Q? the sensor has a single wire and before I removed anything I checked the dash and all lights illuminate during pre start test, but then doesn't now illuminate as expected until start/oil pressure builds and disconnects earth. Now all removed, light is random, with or without the purple wire connected to earth or not. Is this just random interpretation by the dash? wiring is not damaged, I'd hate to think that this is just random electrical issues and not oil pressure at all but on the other hand I don't want to be thrown off of a seized bike. I'v had a 1200 sport 8V before and I never had any of these issues. Frustrating as my Ducati never goes wrong and is ballistic! ....... so why do I still love the GRiSO?

Lots of people break them. I'm not one of them so I've never had to replace one.

With the oil pressure switch there are aftermarket replacements with the correct, coarser, thread. Tridon make one but I can't offhand remember the number.

What sensor did people use to replace with?  My oil pressure sensor started leaking oil so I ordered up a 978854 from a Guzzi dealer and once it arrived, it does not match the one I have as its too small.  This seems to be a common issue.

I would post a picture but I am not allowed for 7 days...

Does anyone know the solution or where to order a sensor that will work?  

Thanks

Kevin

It depends on the year of your bike. Early ones with the rectangular plastic top that clips into a fitting like the injector ones on the loom and a coarse thread can be replaced with a Tridon TPS039. If it's one of the ones with a button or pole electrode they come in two types with a coarse or fine thread. There are switches from Tridon with both threads and I think the fine thread one is a TPS026 but I'm not certain.

Best thing to do if it's one of those would be go to a GOOD car parts place and look through the Tridon or equivalent parts book. Take the old switch or make sure you have the thread pitch and you want a type that is normally closed.

I'll see if I can find the Tridon cattledog on line this morning and have a squizz.

The one I have is definitely as you describe with rectangular plastic top. DO you know if anyone sells Tridon in North America? I'm in Canada so that would preferred as all I can find is Australia.

Someone on another board found one somewhere in NA from memory but I have no idea where, sorry.

Guzzi no longer sell the early switches and devised a sort of horrible lash up with a hexagonal insert into which you are supposed to screw the new type switch. It's an awful solution and often the switch then fouls on the alternator.

If you really have problems let me know and I'll slip one in a baggy for you.

Pete

Hello Everyone,

I am new in the Forum.
I was searching some info about this subject.
Yesterday I was changing the engine oil and filter on my GRiSO.
I forgot to fill the oil filter before I screwed it in, so I was expecting to see the low pressure warning light when I started the engine, until the filter fills and the circuit get's pressurized. But it didn't happened...
The warning light comes on when I switch the ignition and the bike does the system check...
Can the pressure sensor be "cooked" did this ever happened to anyone?
I saw a lot of posts about the subject, but most about the warning light coming on during engine running...
Thanks in advance doe your inputs.

BR,
Luis

It's very rare for the amount of time it takes for the filter to fill to trigger the oil light or the 'Service' warning. You will though probably find that if you go into the diagnostics menu and check the Dashboard Errors that errors #07 and 08 will be memorised but not active. Clear them and as long as they don't come back you're probably good to go.

Hi Pete,

Thanks for the feedback.
I tried selecting the MENU/DIAGNOSIS on the dashboard but it just asked me for an error code...
I never done this before...Is there a thread explained how to read and erase existing error codes?
Thanks

Luis

Pete,

I went through some threads and I found out I needed to introduce the Sevice Code (12425 in my case).
I checked the error codes and it was like you said: #07 was memorized but not active.
I have cleared the error messages. Lets see if any comes up the next time I ride the bike.

Thanks again for your help.

BR,
Luis

List of alternatives for the Oil Pressure Switch (it's not a Sensor as such, it's just an ON/OFF Switch).
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Doc. wrote:

List of alternatives for the Oil Pressure Switch (it's not a Sensor as such, it's just an ON/OFF Switch).
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Hi Doc,
Yes, sensor might not be the right word...
Thanks for the alternative list.
Meanwhile I went for a ride and no error messages were indicated by the dashboard.
I guess the current switch must be working...

BR,
Matias

Guzzi Cat wrote:

Push the line towards the fitting while pulling back on the grey coupler

Dude! Absolutely key!! Got stuck on the fuel line, and am aware of the delicate elbow, glad you responded with this. Also going to use your part link AF1 sent the wrong sensor - that I found out after digging Al the way down to it. BTW 21mm wrench

You will probably find that AF1 didn't send the *Wrong* sender so much as Piaggio changed the sender to one with a finer pitch thread and different top fitting. To enable this sensor to be used on earlier engines they made up a huge hexagonal fitting with a coarse threaded spigot on the bottom and a through drilling to a fine threaded hole at the top. This is supposed to be screwed into the block, the *New* type switch screwed into the top of it and, if needed, the fitting on the wire to the sensor cut off and replaced with something that fits!

Needless to say as well as being a king sized pain in the arse it has the added benefit of increasing the height of the assembly so that it fouls on one of the alternator types, (From memory the early Bosch ones.).

Luckily one doesn't have to do this as there are several different types of coarse threaded aftermarket sensors available. The switch operates at a very low pressure so slight differences in crack pressure are a non issue. Just go and look at the parts book at 'Wattalottacrap Auto' and find one with the correct thread pitch that is 'Closed at rest' or 'Normally closed' and the right fitting on top. If you can't find one with the right fitting just snip off the current connector and crimp on one that does fit the switch.