- Grisonut wrote:
- My 1100 has a smooth clutch operation you're right but I can feel the box not as precise as the one on the 1200.
I can also hear the throw out bearing rattling in there when I engage the clutch, almost like a Duc but it doesn't bother me.
Still a peach of a bike to ride...
The rattle isn't the throw out bearing, it's the intermediate plate. The 1100 uses the 'Old' twin plate clutch with a steel intermediate plate between the two friction plates. When you pull the clutch lever the plates separate and the intermediate plate 'Floats' in the splines of the flywheel and as the wheel accelerates and decelerates between power and compression strokes the intermediate plate lashes too and fro in the spines making the flywheel ring like a bell.
On the later bikes like V11's and 2V CARC bikes the flywheel is very light meaning that this acceleration and decelleration is more marked and the 'Rattle' is of a higher pitch. Listen to earlier models like a T3/SP and the 'Ring' is quieter and has a deeper tone, an early LeMans is slightly but detectably higher in pitch than the T3 due to its slightly lighter flywheel. Listen to a loop frame like an Ambo or Eldo and the sound is almost undetectable due to the flywheel being about as heavy as a neutron star so it's inertia overcomes the compression/power effect far more effectively. The earlier engines also had lower compression ratios which also diminished the effect.
It's worth remembering that the intermediate plate thrashing in the splines doesn't do them any good. That's the reason it's not a good idea to sit at the lights with your clutch pulled in for any length of time! Best to keep it pulled in until the idiot behind you has stopped and then find neutral and release the clutch. Better for splines, better for thrust/release bearing.
Pete