Timing chain tensioner questions (A Kit rollerization)

Hi Folks, I'm finally getting around to doing the rollerization on my 2012 GRiSO. (Bike has been sitting for over 5 years. It has just over 11k miles, and I removed the oil sump, and I don't see any sign of debris in the oil)

So far, everything is making sense, I looked up Pete's procedure on drive.google, but I want to make sure I've got things right before removing the gears on the end of the camshafts.

I see in the pics and description that you need to use a long screwdriver to relieve the hydraulic pressure on the left hand jug. That makes sense, but do I need to remove the throttle body to access the 6mm screw? Engine is in the bike, fuel tank is off, and I can see the little screw, but there's not a lot of room.

Secondly, what should I do for the right hand jug? With the tank off, I see what I think is the access plug to the tensioner (large bolt on the inside of the cylinder. Do I just remove that bolt/plug, and pull out the hydraulic piston, or is there more to it?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

TBs can stay in place. Assume you are using Pete's guide & he has engine out plus all TBs etc removed but doesn't have to be done.

Here's pic of mine with cylinder head off & TBs etc still in place (during rollerisation).

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RHS tensioner just comes out to release tension BUT I did both sides separately & didn't want the cam chain loose on both sides in case it slipped around drive shaft splines (it did anyway but at least only on one side !)

Yup. Treat each side as a separate engine. Do one and then the other. I usually start on the left and then move to the right but it doesn’t matter which way you do it.

With an ‘A’ kit there is no need to disconnect the TB’s or manifolds as the heads don’t need to come off.

The access screw for the tensioner pin hole is best accessed with a short 1/4 drive allen socket. Make sure it’s a good quality key that fits or it will try and round out the hex in the screw.

Do make sure when bleeding down the tensioner plunger that the screwdriver slips between the chain and the tensioner far enough that when you start levering the force is being applied to the tensioner at the point the plunger meets the blade. The plastic blade is very frangible and if you apply force only to the top you can snap it easily. Replacement is an engine out job!

The right hand tensioner is unloaded simply by removing the cap above it on the RH cylinder. No need to remove the plunger, just take the cap off.

Thanks guys for your help. I got the left side cam box off, found a definite wear pattern on one of the tappets, but surprisingly it feels smooth.

I'm gonna shut down for the night and pick up again tomorrow, but still have a few questions.

Firstly, there is a short tube for the spark plug well on the bottom of the old cam box, looks like it's pressed in. New box doesn't have it. Assuming it needs to be transferred, what's the best way to remove it without buggering it up?

Secondly, I noticed a fair amount of a film, something black/brown in the bottom of the sump. DLC or dirt or both? does not feel gritty, and it doesn't seem to be anywhere else. Oil in the top of the head under the cam box was clean.

So... regardless of what it is, I'd like to remove the oil cooler and drain it too. Any recommendations or warnings about removing that?

There is also a copper tube that comes out of the bottom of the crankcase, that makes a long 'u' and goes back in. Is that an oil tube? Should I remove it and empty it?

Thanks again for the help!

The tube is just pressed in. Make sure the new cambox has the supplied o-ring in the groove in the casting for it before it is installed.

I wouldn’t think the cooler is worth removing and back-flushing to be honest. The pipe you mention is the lubricant delivery pipe to the rear main and rear cam bearings. While it’s not necessary to remove it for rollerisation I would recommend that you drop the sump spacer to do the spacer gasket and to do that all that gubbins has to come off anyway.

The black stuff is likely just assembly lube from the original engine build. It’s easy to look for demons that aren’t there!

Thanks Pete, as of tonight, I've got both jugs done, the sump and spacer off and cleaned, and I'm waiting for the replacement gaskets to arrive.

Thanks so much for your help. The job isn't really very difficult, but it sure helps to know what to expect. After taking so much time on the left cylinder, I got the right hand one done in an hour. Course it was easier to deal with the tensioner on that side, but it still went a lot faster.

Now I wonder if my fuel pump is going to work after sitting for so many years. Will find out soon.