This little piece of...

This little metal screw/plunger end but that actuates the master cylinder - how the hell do I get it out? Im already mangling it bit by bit...


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There's a teeny grub screw holding it on.

Yup, tiny (2.5mm) Allen grub screw. The whole lot is tied together with Loctite too so use a propane torch to heat it up and soften the Loctite before trying to loosen the grub screw. There is a flat blade screwdriver slot in the non-pokey end of the plunger which you *Should* be able to use to wind the plunger out. If not hold the plunger in a vice with soft jaws and ad heat and wriggle it out.

Pete

Whelp. I tried using an allen key to get the grub screw out and it just rounded out the head... So, looks like I may have to order one. I did some research and found one at AF1 Racing - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

The question is, will this fit and work 100% with a GRiSO 1100 or is there another part I should be ordering?

Yup, that's the part and yes it will work. Pricey for what it is but to the best of my knowledge its the only option as Brembo don't seem to list them separately and if you buy the whole lever its not only pricey but you are still stuck with the same problem if you want to swap levers.

Do make sure when installing the lever that you have the plunger dusted correctly. The piston in the master has to be able to return to the end of its stroke when the lever is released. If it can't the system will pressurise and you'll risk burning a clutch and/or trashing your thrust bearing.

Pete

Just spoke to the guys at AF1 - they informed me the part will not work? If you or anyone else has used this part, can we confirm that it works? Just being a stickler - I prefer spending money once, even if it is $40 bucks for a small adjuster rod.

The AF1 part will fit in the clutch lever, but the vertical piece is shorter than the stock piece. It does not have the half-round protrusion at the bottom, so it will not activate the micro switch. I have not yet tried to see if the grub screw and the horizontal bits from the AF1 part will fit into the stock vertical "half round" piece, since I haven't gotten the grub screw out.

Having similar issues removing the grub screw. Going to retry with more heat. Heated it last time, but the bugger started rounding off a bit anyway so I stopped and went off to more productive pursuits.

Eric

I stand corrected. I hadn't noticed the lack of switch tang. That could be an issue.

Pete

I would bet that the plunger and grub screw are interchangeable with the stock barrel.

The microswitch - this is used for starting the motorcycle when in gear and clutch is depressed correct? Because I can currently start the motorcycle out of gear without issue. If this is the case, then I could care less about the microswitch - I dont think I have ever been able to start the motorcycle in gear. As long as the piston in the master cylinder is able to function then I will have a running working motorcycle - I can more than likely get the main barrel and pin machined if need be.

Steak wrote:

I would bet that the plunger and grub screw are interchangeable with the stock barrel.

I hadn't thought of that. I wonder if this is the case.

The micro switch stops you from starting in gear without the lever pulled in, but also works in conjunction with the side stand switch. It's a double redundancy thing.


..and what Steak said.

Steak wrote:

I would bet that the plunger and grub screw are interchangeable with the stock barrel.

You are correct Sir! I am currently running "Made in China" brand shorty levers using the AF1 plunger and that part from the stock lever. DW

I can get the part and use the stock barrel - the question is; how to remove the plunger from the stock barrel if I cant get the grub screw out? Heat and allen keys mangled the head of it.

I can get the part and use the stock barrel - the question is; how to remove the plunger from the stock barrel if I cant get the grub screw out? Heat and allen keys mangled the head of it.

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I will be ordering this part as it comes with the barrel/adjuster pin and no muss no fuss. Thanks all!

FYI - for this job, I actually prefer using a micro-torch vs. a standard torch. It's a bit easier to concentrate the flame on the grub screw.

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I don't know if they make Ezy-outs small enough for the tiny grub screw. I've successfully used a Torx to remove a larger Allen screw that an Ezy-out wouldn't. Of course, the Torx was sacrificed. I found a Torx that almost fit and hammered tapped it in.

Gently of course... as one would with a tap-o-meter

got_griso wrote:

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I will be ordering this part as it comes with the barrel/adjuster pin and no muss no fuss. Thanks all!

Good price! I might get one on spec. DW