Advice NEEDED!

My Beloved & Gorgeous 2013 V7 Racer has sustained saltwater ingestion from the storm surge caused by Hurricane Ian in Southwest Florida on September 28. The saltwater rose just high enough to enter the crankcase and touch the starter. I immediately washed the bike down with 'Salt-Away' (a Marine product that neutralizes saltwater), washed with S-100, and hosed down thoroughly. I pulled the dipstick and saw that the engine oil was up to the top of the filler, indication that saltwater was under the oil. I turned the key to 'On' and saw that the dash came alive as normal. I did not attempt to crank the motor for fear of hydro-static lock because of crankcase over fill. I drained the crankcase, removed the oil filter, and cranked the engine to check electronics functionality. The starter spun, but did not engage the flywheel. I then sealed back up (without the oil filter) and added motor oil to fill the case completely to the top. The reason I did this was to keep the bearings coated and submerged in oil until I can get a replacement starter (which apparently has been fried). I would estimate the saltwater in the sump was probably a couple of inches at most. Exposed metal that has been 'salted' is at the highest risk for oxidation and corrosion. Am I on the right track to recovery? Any advice??? Thanks.

You have done most things i can think of I would remove the plugs and turn the motor over many times to move the oil around and hopefully move any standing bubbles of salt water.

If the starter is spinning then all it needs is to 'fling in' the starter gear to the flywheel ring.  
That may not be happening due to a weak electrical surge maybe because the battery has partially shorted by salt water and drained or the contacts have corroded
or it may be that the starter gear is sticking on its shaft you could try checking it moves freely and lubricate  it.

Other things that may get salt water corrosion - bevel box?.....and swing arm, wheel bearings and brake pistons

Thanks Jon G. Today I'm going to remove the starter and bench test it to see why the pinion gear is not engaging the flywheel. I removed the plugs, sprayed Penetrating Oil in the cylinders and will attempt to roll the bike around, in gear, so I can get the oil moving and the main bearings coated too. And, yes the shaft and gear case are gonna come apart too. So far the brakes are fine. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Pretty bike

I KNOW it's NOT a GRiSO! My 1200SE was up in the back of my truck and is FINE! But, this Prom Queen V7 is my Gorgeous Girlfriend!

Did the water level rise above the top of the bevelbox and gearbox? If so there will be water in both.

First thing would be to drain all the oils and see what comes out with them. Any water or mud and it's time to start taking stuff to bits. The sooner the better.

Thanks Pete, will be getting to that today, I hope. Unfortunately things are not going so good right now. I removed the starter, pulled the plugs out, and attempted to turn the motor by pushing the bike while in gear. The motor will NOT turn! Locks up the rear wheel as soon as I dump the clutch. The trans shifts fine. The clutch engages and disengages fine. I don't know what could be keeping it from turning over the motor at this point!

Oh that sounds bad - hopefully it may just be piston rings seized on one side?

Sorry to read about this.
Normally I would suggest removing the plugs and adding a drop of gas oil (diesel) down each cylinder but with cats, it would require the removal of the exhausts until the engine has been started and the extra fuel has burnt off. TBH on plated cylinders I would be surprised if the rings have frozen to the cylinder wall but almost free to try.
On the 2 valve 750's, they have the traditional alternator on the front of the crank. Have you checked it as saltwater would probably seize it solid.

Thanks eeyore. When I removed the plugs I sprayed a healthy dose of Penetrating Oil in to each cylinder to prevent the rings from sticking. I started the saltwater mitigation process pretty quickly after the storm. While awaiting the starter arrival, I will be removing the Alternator today to inspect for damage and order a new one ($$$$) anyway. But I'd be really surprised if it's locked up that solid already. Stand by for further info as I process this disaster...

You said you were going to completely fill the crankcase with oil to keep the bearing from possibly corroding? Couldn't that cause a hydro-lock type issue? I know hydro-lock is usually a top end thing, but there is usually air inside the crankcase that can be compressed. Those 3 3/4' (95mm for the rest of the world) pistons move a lot of air. That's more a question than a statement.

Does it have a stator or an alternator? Pull the stator cover or belt cover to get at the big nut on the crankshaft and turn it over slowly with a wrench.

WOW kubbie! That's exactly what I was doing while you were typing this message. I turned the big 24mm nut and with some WD40 sprayed into and onto the alternator, sprayed A LOT of Penetrating Oil into each cylinder and the motor was turning over. I think eeyore was right, the alternator wasn't seized solid, but it was very close to it. More WD and more turns on the ratchet and it was turning freely. A new Alternator is definitely on the list. As soon as the new starter arrives I will crank it. I don't think there's any hydrostatic lock going on in the crank case, I don't feel any compression while turning the motor by hand. I just want to get oil circulating as much as possible to coat bearings and seals before I'm able to get this thing running. Next step is removing the drive shaft for inspection.