Tank quick release connection

Hi everyone,
This is an emergency
Can someone tell me how the fuel quick release connection on the tank works?
I tried a little pull and push on the white ring but its not working...

(1) You depressurise the fuel pipes by starting the engine then disconnecting the tank electric plug when the engine stops the pip[es have been drained so you are ready. turn it off.
(2) you push the pipe towards the tank fitting, then pull the grey collar away from the tank fitting (there is no click or other positive sign it has worked) then the pipe and collar should slide off. Grease them with silicone grease before re-fitting.

If that does not work unplug the injectors and undo the allen screw retaining them to the inlets, twist them gently and they will come out. Then as yu raise the tank tou can thread them through the cables and tubes and lift the lot off.

lcjohnny wrote:

(1) You depressurise the fuel pipes by starting the engine then disconnecting the tank electric plug when the engine stops the pip[es have been drained so you are ready. turn it off.

I did not Jon....I was following the manual instructions for tank removal and it was not mentioned, so I not even thought about it...
Now I have already removed the battery. I might have to connect it back and try it...

I was trying to remove the tank to have access to the inner spark plugs.
Just by raising moving the tank back I managed to get "some" access to the plugs
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inserting my hands above and under the frame tube I am able to apply a considerable force to the spark plug wrench, keeping it well aligned with the plugs as recommended by Pete...I don't want another headacke...
The problem is that these plugs are not giving any sign they want to move...
I sprayed some WD-40 over them and I am going to let it soak overnight...I'm praying they will be more cooperative tomorrow...

Another thing...
I shaved a tube wrench to a diameter of around 20,75 mm as mentioned in another thread.
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I hope this is enough and that any remmaining of flat surface on the outside is not jammeing in the tight space around the plugs, preventing it from turning...

I'd really recommend getting a decent thin wall socket that you can get a breaker bar or ratchet on rather then using a ground down box spanner like that. Getting sufficient torque, evenly applied, onto the plug using that setup is asking for the plug to shear off if it is seized in or very tight.

Also wd40 is not a penetrating oil, it is a water displacer. So it may work but PlusGas or Mr Penetrator or similar would have more chance.

Pete Roper wrote:

I'd really recommend getting a decent thin wall socket that you can get a breaker bar or ratchet on rather then using a ground down box spanner like that. Getting sufficient torque, evenly applied, onto the plug using that setup is asking for the plug to shear off if it is seized in or very tight.

You are making me nervous Pete
I will give it a second, carefull, go tomorrow.
If these plugs keep stuborn and will go after a "decent socket" like you said

A good penetrating oil can be made at home using 50% ATF (Automatic Tranmission Fluid) and 50% Acetone.

Like Jon said, WD is a water Displacement fluid - WD40 is the 40th version they made before they got it right. Also do no use it in locks...

Hi all,

Finally, with extra care and extra leverage, I was able today to remove the spark plugs
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They look better than I expected, considering they have done 43.000 km...
But they do look a bit overheated....Yes, the last stride was of 300 km, fully loaded, and with sunny day of 35ºC....
But during this trip (around 1.000 km) I also removed the dbkiller...
What do you think Beetle, should I try the Nocat_NodbK map even thou the can has a small cat?

I was also considering to apply some copper paste to the plug threads to avoid seizing, but at the same time I am affraid they will turn loose with time...they are not in a good position to check now and then...
Any experince with that? What tigthening torque/method are you guys using? 1/4 turn after the washer contacts the engine thread?

Thanks as usual:)

Jesus, there is always something that doesn't want to come of....
These are the holes to connect the manometers for the TB balancing, right?
What's the secret to remove these screws?!!! How can they bem só right? Seems I will destroy the screw heads any minute...Shall I heat them up a little?

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How can they be so right?.....this spelling corrector makes me crazy

Matias they are made of cheese same as the rocker box screws.

I sugggest heating them up with a blow-lamp and (gently) using an impact driver to remove them

Give them a tap with a small hammer to break the corrosion and then use a good quality key socket to apply torque slowly. These fasteners are one of the reasons high quality tools pay for themselves.

If you do end up rounding them out you can get them out with a cold chisel. Then replace them with standard Allen bolts.

Thanks guys.
It seemed those screws were born there...I applied heat, I applied penetrating oil (not WD40 this time...), I applied hammer tap, good allen key...and still they didn't wanted to come out.
So I applied a good quality grip plier to their stupid heads and twisted and...it worked. And I didn't damaged the heads, just a small scratch.

But....finally....mission accomplished!:
-Exhaust leaks sorted out
-New inner plugs
-TBs balanced with my new Carbtune
-TPS reset
-CO trimmed

Can't wait for tomorrow to do a drive test

I had to give a 1/4 of a turn on the bell-crank adjuster to get the TBs balanced at 3500 rpm.
Curiously my idle was balanced with both air bleeds closed, so I left them that way.
While I was gasing up to reach the 3500-4000 rpm the columns of the carbtune had a somehow erratic behavior...Do you have the same experience?

Both air bleeds closed is fine. As for the movement of the rods in the Carbtune? You can always damp them with clamps.

The Carbtune kit included a restrictor (a plastic tube with a tiny passage) to be intersected on the rubber hoses, and I installed it.
The columns were stable (not "vibrating", I mean), what I wanted to say is that when I opened the gas slowly to reach the 4000 sometimes the right was higher, sometimes the left...But when stabilizing the rpms they ended up leveling

How do those spark plugs (previous mail) look to you Pete?

They've been in there forever.

Hi everyone,

Here's the update from the test ride:
- The engine got much smoother, especially in the low range
- The fuel use went significantly down. It was common for this bike to show 6 L/100 km in the dashboard. At the end of the ride today it was showing 4,8 L/km.
- Downside: the exhaust was popping a lot when I was shutting the gas...In the second half of the ride it seemed to have improved. Maybe the new tunning was still adjusting...I will see how it goes in the future.
The engine didn't seem to be oveheating, but It will take a look at the outer spark plugs soon.