Dreaded fuel line quick release

First post here. And of course, it involves a question concerning a small screw-up I've made. Long story short: Just purchased a 2012 GRiSO, which, as you might imagine, needs to be rollerised. Fair enough, I figured as much going in, so I've bought the "B" kit and read everything and watched Mr. Roper's video more times than an old I Love Lucy re-run. So I started right in...and forgot to bleed off the fuel line pressure before starting the tank removal. In my defense, none of the instructions, tips etc. mention this as a first step. But I've removed tanks on FI bikes before, and should have remembered. Now I can't get that fricking Quick release fitting that we all hate to let go. My question is this: If I wait a few days, will the fuel pressure bleed down by itself, or do I need to re-assemble the tank and battery just to "dry motor" the engine over a few revolutions? Like everyone, I have to rant about that fitting. I thought the ones on the Ducatis were finicky! I seldom see a Moto Guzzi V11 Sport that doesn't have the elbow broken off and some metal elbow and hose clamps for a work-around. Oh well, let me know if patience will be a virtue or if I need to go ahead and throw it (loosely) back together. Great site, by the way...lots of good people here I do believe.

Mike, Pressure "shouldn't" relieve itself. However, as you say, it just might. I have opened this connector before with full pressure on the lines - you may succeed or you may not. I spray some WD40 into the connector before hand, wipe off the excess, and then remove as per no fuel line pressure.

No guarantees of success in this methodology, but you could try and remove one of the injectors, this will allow the pressure to relieve itself - usually all over you and everywhere else - maybe a few sheets of paper wipes around the injector as you back it out...

Option 1. Throw it back together.
Option 2. Knife it - as in cut fuel line.
Option 3. Wait till summer.

I also have a standard hose clamp on mine so if I forget to "dry motor", there IS another option.

Use GuzziDiag. Pull the pump power connector and use GuzziDiag injector test to pulse the injectors.

Due to work, it will be a few days before I can try again. Any tips as to how to pull the line at the injector, as Pete Roper suggests?  I removed the one bolt on the retainer, but am not familiar with how the hard plastic fuel line unfastens from the injector assembly. Pull? Twist?  Push in and twist?  If all else fails. I think I may cheat just a bit and attach the battery with some  motorcycle jumper cables I have.  Should be more than enough to crank the engine over a few times with the fuel pump elec. disconnected.  I'll be careful, don't want to fry the ecm or anything like that!

Search and you'll find several threads here on that.  

See, e.g., [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] so you know we "feel your pain."

Best wishes for victory.

Bill

Just pull the injector straight out of the manifold after undoing the retainer. This is held in by O-Ring, and is quite tight. or, do as Beetle suggests if you have GuzziDiag.

Well...Success! Although I'm not all that sure how. I decided to give the connector one more try before hooking the battery back up. I wiggled and tugged, and I guess Luigi took pity on me, because it just popped off. Very little fuel came out of the line, only a few drops, about a tablespoon. So it seems the fuel pressure does bleed down over time. A few hours in my case. Thanks for all the tips. I'll let you know how the tappet swap-out goes.

'B' kit is easy-peasy! If you have any questions ask before you screw up.

Pete

Put in a little time on the GRiSO today, mostly pulling the plugs and getting the left piston to TDC. Wanted to do a "cold" valve clearance check so I'd have a starting point reference. Backstory: I'm the third owner of the bike and it only has 4500 miles on it (yes, sad, I know) so I don't know the service history. Oil "wash" and change out with Motul 10w60 found a UNI filter, so ether no service or first service by a MG dealer. Here's the valve clearance on the left side: Both intakes @ .15mm
and both exhausts @ .20mm.

A question: How critical is being right at TDC for timing? As long as you're "off the cam" I'd think I'm ok so long as I keep the timing chain from slipping a tooth. Also, the manual says to turn the crank-nut "clockwise" as you are facing the bike (so looking backwards at it?) I suppose the clockwise warning is just to prevent any loosening of the nut if you were to turn it the other way?

I'm just taking my time (which is why I'd never cut it as a professional mech...much too slow!) So far it all seems pretty straight forward "nuts and bolts" stuff.

Probably would of been better to start a new thread for this question Mike otherwise things like this often get lost.

Basically as long as the tappet is on the base circle of the cam its fine. Best way to get it nice and close is with the plugs out turn the crank clockwise as viewed from the front until you see the inlet valves close. Wind it round another 90 degrees or so and then use a long plastic drinking straw down the plug hole so it rests on top of the piston. Keep on winding it round until the straw is as high as it gets. If it starts to drop? Wind it back a bit and then forward again until you know you're very close. A few degrees either way won't matter but do make sure you are on the right stroke.

I set all 8V clearances at 4 thou inlet and 6 thou exhaust regardless of what the various book iterations may be. If you're running one of Mark's maps these are built for these clearances and yes, it does make a difference.

Pete

Hey Mike, the best way to undo the pulley bolt is to forget you left the socket on the pulley nut and then press the start button....surprisingly quick way to undo a bolt you didn't want to undo and create a big metallic noise (as the socket hits the exhaust) but if you are lucky (I was), no damage and you can re-torque it as you stand on the brake pedal with bike in gear. I would be even more surprised if turning the engine in neutral the wrong way would undo the bolt !

BTW What do you mean by 'as long as I keep the chain from slipping a tooth ? Unless you have the cam sprocket off or the tensioner off, there isn't anywhere to slip a tooth. Paul