Left Cylinder

I noticed some oil on the bottom of the cylinder. After replacing the tank, most of the oli is seen in the middle.

Is this the oil pressure switch leaking? Or the gasket at the bottom?


Need some help out there.

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My money is on the oil pressure switch.
That is what mine looked like - although yours has so much less rust and corrosion than mine did

If you do not mind sullying your pristine bike with non Moto-Guzzi parts
The switch is BMW OEM part code is 12618611273 with a 12mmx1.5mm thread
turn off/on pressure us apparently 0.35 bar.
Any other after-market part with same specs will do the job.

What an excellent service here - thanks a lot for the part number and specs.

Tightening torque?

Hi
It says 25Nm on page 11 of 1st chapter "Characteristics" of the manual  (CHAR11)
you can download the Service manuals from this site "Ex Libris" section [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] (not in German - sorry)

BUT you will need to choose your spanner carefully as the top of the switch stops you using a socket and the cylinders get in the way of large spanners.

Jon

Thanks, Jon.

Markus

Ready to stand corrected by the GRiSO gurus but I'd forget the torque wrench and just nip it up. Possibly with a bit of threebond or that black loctite gasket goo if I was worried about further leaks

I managed to torque it with a big spanner a spring balance and the calculator on my phone. Like to avoid gasket goo if at all possible.

I found in the pdf "Motor12008V_course (GB)", chapter oil pressure/ temperature sensors,

for the temperature sensor: Loctite 243, 10-12 Nm.

Maybe helpful:

The original oil pressure switch and the O-Ring Seal (Aluminium): 12,1 x 20,5 x 1,0 mm

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BigTime wrote:

Maybe helpful:
The original oil pressure switch and the O-Ring Seal (Aluminium): 12,1 x 20,5 x 1,0 mm

Well i am sorry - mine looked just like that except i am sure that the thread was coarser & i used the part number i gave you to get the replacement - !

I thought that the fine thread ones required an aluminium hex adaptor below the oil switch that screwed into the crankcases?

Best get one from a dealer then - they are not expensive

Your part number from BMW was just right and very good. With this number i got an aftermarket spare-part from HELLA:

6ZL 006 097 001

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There is a small O-Ring fixed on the switch. I decided to put another O-Ring on, which i had in spare - just for sure
(outer diameter 18mm).

I had no hex adaptor below, just screwed it in. There is small space for the 24mm spanner.

I will make a ride and give some report.

Is it the same for the 1100?

From memory, no. The switch is the same but the fitting is different.

This is one of the annoying things that Guzzi/Piaggio will do. Decisions on buying shit like this is always left to production bean counters. The switches all work the same way but if they can get one a few cents cheaper with a different thread and fitting on the top? They will buy those and then get the engineering department to McGyver a fit.

The thing is as long as the switch has the correct thread, and works the right way, (Continuity when the motor isn't running.) you can fit it as long as the hex isn't so large it fouls something around it.

The crack pressure of the switch on all of them is really low. Basically it detects if there is any pressure or none, fractions of a bar/a couple of psi are neither here nor there.

There are basically three types of terminal for the switch, either a straight 'Pole' type electrode, a 'Button' type electrode that has a spade connector slip on to it and the 'Block' type connector used on the early CARC bikes. All you need to do is change the fitting on the end of the wire and you can use any switch that fits really.

When they started buying the fine thread switches their 'Fix' was to sell the customer a stupid big hex alloy thing with a coarse thread on the bottom and a hole in the top with the later fine thread. What they overlooked was if you try to use this with the early Bosch alternators, (I think, it might be the other way round?) the switch then fouls the alternator on the 8V! Then of course there is the fact they want you to BUY this *Fix* for their stupid venality!

Fuck that.

We use a Tridon switch, an aftermarket brand readily available here, it costs pennies. It has the correct coarse thread, uses the 'Block and clip' fitting and if you have another fitting you can either buy a connector or just put a pin that fits on the wire, push it onto the switch and tape it up.

Yeah, you shouldn't need to do this shit, but we do. So just do it. It's not rocket science and enables you to give a big 'Fuck You' to the bean counters.......

After my first ride, there is no oil leaking anymore. Yeah.

Maybe also interesting for others:

Thread orig. switch: 10,1 mm (Lenght), thread aftermarket switch: 11,7 mm.

Thanks for everybody.

I use the old one for Loops or Tonti's w/a bullet connector jumper, then a socket fits.

I want to give a response from the new oil pressure switch (Hella) after e few rides:

Works fine, no problems.