Oil from left side

Right where left cylinder hits base.... did not notice this before rolerising... is it just like a house 'settling' and needs to be re-torqued?
Thoughts


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C kit?








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Most expensive kit, an early 8v, I'd have to look thru my notes

That'd be the C kit. Heads have to come off. Either they disturbed the base gasket or torqued the head down incorrectly.

Dealer did the rollers?




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Give it a good wash before you panic. When you pull the heads off the gasket decompresses and its not uncommon for there to be a bit of weepage while you're arising about with the heads and camboxes. When the engine warms up after its all back together it tends to spread out and look for all the world like a leak but a thorough wash usually clears it up. Whack it with some degreaser and a steam cleaner and see if it goes away.

Pete

Yes, Dealer did rollers,
And will do pete I'll give it a wash down and observe, But its also been about 3000 miles since rollerizing was done

Just checked mine after seeing your post. I've only done 600 miles since rollers (incl head off) and was surprised to see oil seepage both sides at same points around base of cylinder. I can't see any drips although it has spread all over the casings a bit but I'm guessing it's like nosebleeds - little bit seems to go a long way and looks worse than it really is. So I think it is exactly as Pete says and just wriggled out oil from the shuffling around.

Wiped it down very good. torqued all 4 15 mm bolts to ~ 45 ft lbs, two of them were loose. Will ride and see if I still have oil. weeping.

Looking at the parts diagram, It looks like the Right Cylinder has a metal gasket near the base, yet the left cylinder does not- anyone know why?

It's there. Just not in the drawing. Qty 2.






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the gasket on the right has a 'tang' sticking out about the oil cooler- I did not see this on the left side, am I missing something?

There are two gaskets and they are identical. No tangs on the base gaskets from memory. There are on the head gaskets as they are a sandwiched composite type with the 'Leaves' riveted together. The rivets are in the 'Tangs'.

Pete

The base gasket on the right on my GRiSO has a tang too.


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So it doesn't! That's weird as its only a single leaf. Must be something to do with the cutting process. Either that or perhaps the Cali 14 uses composite base gaskets to alter barely height? The 14's only have a single head gasket thickness I believe???

Pete

So do I have a gasket on the left side or am I still missing something, I dont see it on the parts drawing

after cleaning yesterday, withing a few hours I saw a direct weep-path from the center of where the head meets. Did not run it, just from sitting

Dealer has recommended torquing the bolts with 15 mm heads on top of the cam box to 49 ft-lbs--

Loosen the bolts a little and retorque?
Thoughts?

Only if you want to rip the studs out of the block! 30 ft/lbs is the required torque.

Has your bike ever been apart? If not I can't believe it would of been assembled without a base gasket at the factory, that would have to be a first!

Pete

It was taken apart to fix the flange oil leak, but to my knowledge only the top end (camboxes were removed) to do the rollerizing

Noted on the torquing-
what are my options here?

Yes. Forget the parts drawing, you should have base gaskets on both sides.

I would re-torque them. 11 ft-lbs +90.

Pete, does that turn out to be 30 ft-lbs?




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Dunno, I'd have to try it.

What I'd do for starters is loosen the two cam chain tunnel bolts first, then release all load off the main stud nuts. Then get your torque wrench out and tighten in a crosshatch pattern in three stages to 15, then 25 and finally to 32 fr/lbs. Make sure you have the piston at TDC compression and you've loosened the lash adjusters.

After re-torque re set the valves and tighten the camchain tunnel bolts, slap the cover on and hope. If that doesn't cure it it'll probably need the base gasket replacing.

Pete

Fair enough, I'll give it a go. I know rubber gaskets wear out, but do metal ones too?

No, but the coating on them might degrade in some way allowing a weep. While I've only assembled them dry if I was suspicious of them leaking I'd coat them with Coppercoat gasket teatment as I do the head gaskets.

Pete

Just to follow on from this - been in Houston for a few weeks so didn't give it a good run after wiping. It seems I have exactly same issue you have with oil weeping even after a good clean off. Will pull off tank tomorrow and look where it is coming from as I feel it is higher than the base gasket (and oil is just appearing there). If not that then I'll do the slacken and re-torque - I can't see why the base gasket should fail when head is removed as I didn't even move the pistons or jiggle anything below the head. Will let you know what I find

Tank & cam covers off. Looks to me like oil is leaking from the RHS cam chain tensioner bolt & running around the cylinder to CC joint so looks from outside like that is the problem when it maybe isn't. For some reason there are two copper washers on the bolt so I kept both, took them off and cleaned then torqued it down to proper torque 30 nm - I defo didn't put that much on last time as now the white mark has gone around 1/4 turn more. Checked head nut torques and they are all still sitting at 31 ftlb and given you can see the twist on the head studs at that level of torque (nuts & top of stud visibly rotating back when you release the torque), I wouldn't even go near adding more :-). 10nm on the side bolts still there also. need replacement

Will chuck it all together and see if that does it.....still can't see why base gaskets would be prob

Some pics. Thinking if it was leaking base gasket the oil unlikely to climb up in between V to top of the cam tensioner bolt (RHS); but if it was cam tensioner bolt leaking it can go all over both sides base gaskets easily. Tightened everything, checked and redid valve gaps, then checked by running engine with tank on sideways - no oil leaks in 5 mins. Worth checking this if you get apparent base gasket oil leak after rollers.
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BTW. Since I was doing valves I learned the ultra fast way to remove the pulley nut....initially thought the 'ding' was tensioner pressuring up but found wrench and bolt on floor under pulley case after I shut engine down....refitted with Loctite, torque wrench & in first gear with foot on rear brake; ENGINE OFF this time...doesn't seem to have damaged exhaust pipe anyway.

Hey Paul, that looks like you have 2 copper gaskets under the right cam tensioner , or maybe I'm being optically deluded 
Edit : Sorry Paul, just went back a bit further and saw you already know this.