Oil leak in the back of the engine

Great!
Thank you Pete.

Hi,
I have already ordered the gaskets and I am just waiting they arrive to get my hands on the job
I saw in some post that the headers and side stand had to be removed to have access to all the sump bolts and drop it down. Is this confirmed?

BR,
Matias

i have done the job and i did remove the side-stand
but i can't remember if i had to....

I used the "lumber stand" but the official service stand or Pete's front wheel chock and a jack would also work

Don’t you have to take the headers off to get to one of the bolts on the side stand…..making this more complicated then it needs to be, or, an I mistaken?
Thank you.

If yours is an early one with the spacer then you find that the side stand and the oil cooler are bolted to the spacer! So they need to come off and yes, one of the exhaust pipes - but that means you can polish the pipe

Thanks guys....I better plan some time for the job...

Hi Everton e,
I took a look at the service manuals I have and was not easy to identify the torque values for the sump bolts, oil tube connections,...
Do you have this available by chance?

BR

The torque settings are in 4 pages in the  "Characteristics" section at the beginning of the manuals  -mine are from page CHAR14 to CHAR18.

I would rather you read them there than have the risk of me mistyping added to the pot
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Thank you Jon

I am sad today
I was hoping, praying, those gaskets to be torn to pieces, but no such luck...
The two of them, regardless the 42,000 km, were in pretty good shape (the lower one broke when I removed it from the pan.
It looks more and more that I will have to go for the main rear seal

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Maria's. I may of led you astray, for some reason I thought that your bike was an 1100. I have no idea why as you clearly state it's an 8V.

This changes things a bit. Disregard my comments about the Welch plug, it doesn't have one.

If yours is an early engine the fault will be the fact that the case and oil delivery tube on the main bearing flange are machined wrong and the two lower bolts that hold it on may be too long.

You'll have to drop the motor and remove the gearbox and clutch. Then remove the flange, (Special tool required.) file a couple of mm off the length of the oil delivery tube, fit a new, slightly thicker, o-ring to the tube to ensure it seals and reinstall the flange WITHOUT a gasket, just a thin smear of Threebond 1211 or similar. Also replace the two bottom bolts with ones 5mm shorter.

This was a manufacturing defect on early motors. Sorry for the confusion.

You thought well Pete...My GRiSO is indeed a 1100. I understand...Too many people with too many problems We can only thank you for your support.
Anyway, if a miracle doesn't happen and those drops will keep showing on the garage floor I will have to go for it.
It might be the seal, the flange, the camshaft bearing plug....If I will drop the motor I will check all of that.
I am only divided if I should try it miself (i'm short of the special tools and other hardware) or give it to a repair shop. There is only a Guzzi dealer close to me (= expensive and slow) and I don't feel confortable giving the bike to a common repair shop....So far I have been handling things myself...

OK, so now I'm wondering why I thought it was an 8V? never mind, as you were.....

Hi Pete,

I saw a couple of vídeos on Youtube (this is one of them [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] )where the mechanic unbolted the engine from the bell housing and left the gearbox on the bike (just dropped the engine).
Is this a good alternative method or is it better to drop engine+gearbox completely?

Also, which are the special tools you need to have for such job?
I undertand there is one special tool to pull the main bearing flange out, and another tool to center the clutch disk...Are they a must?

Thanks Pete

Matias - that is a Youtube about plumbing.
But I can assure you that Pete will say in his experience it is harder to get the engine out with the gearbox in the frame

lcjohnny wrote:

Matias - that is a Youtube about plumbing.

Sorry guys definitely the wrong vídeo....

These are the examples:
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They did seem to have struggled with the clutch hydraulic actuator and bell housing/engine connection bolts....

If that is the video of the bloke in the UK I reckon they're mad. A more time consuming and labour intensive way of going about it I can't imagine! Just pull the arse end out, yank the airbox and lift the frame. That method is a classic case of trying to be clever and failing.

The only special tool you will require is the puller for the rear flange. Do expect to replace at least a couple of the bolts that hold the ring gear to the flywheel assembly and use a high quality allen socket on them if you want any chance of success.

Thanks Pete

I don't know, but I don't mind a little drip drop drippety drop drop.....

....and you are probably right Bulldog...
But I must confess...This thing gets on my nerves, and it gets me anxious thinking ir can get worse from one day to the other...

So what fixed the leak?
I got what sounds like the same issue

Hi everyone,
A short update, once orngm2 brought the subject back to the surface.
I've had bikes with leaks (thinking about my old Triumph...). They were regular...You could rely on them ...
This one, besides being a small one, it's very irregular...Weeks go by without a drop on the garage floor, and then suddenly a couple of drops...
Until know I couldn't find the logic behind (old/new oil, riding hard/soft,...)
I'm now just going to change the oil brand (Eni -> Motul) to see if it makes any difference...

Sorry to hijack post. Is there a way to make a better dipstick? Like maybe an L shape that measures the oil vertically ? And the oil should be measured with the stick screwed in? It worries me as the oil volume is quite low and I don't want to drop too low or overfill either.

There is PLENTY of oil in the motor.

DO NOT fill it to the 'Full' mark on the dipstick, ever, it will just blurt the excess out into the airbox.

The easiest way to check the oil is to fill it to about a third of the way up between the 'Add' and 'Full' mark on the dipstick with the bike upright and the stick resting on the threads. Ride it for a few hundred Km and it may drop a tiny bit but it is highly unlikely to drop off the stick. When it stops *Using* oil? That is your 'Full' level.

Put the bike on its sidestand on a flat surface and see where the oil level is on the stick with the stick just resting on the threads. Mark the stick accordingly. You now know exactly where to fill it to without all the jiggery-pokery of holding the bike upright or farting about with different measuring methods.

The factory's specified 3.5 litres is way too much. It will simply get expelled until it finds its own level. Don't keep topping it up. All it will do is accelerate damage to your throttlebodies. *About* three litres is more than enough.

When installing the 4 bolts that mount the sump spacer and the 2 that hold the oil pick-up, is any type of loctite used?