Damaged shock and rear caliper bolts

Yesterday I finally got round to stripping down and regreasing the rear suspension.
Fortunately nothing was dry and rusted.

The rear shock cylinder was pitted from road gravel being thrown onto it.
As it happens I recently read the thread on rear huggers and saw that someone had suggested the same solution that I used on my
900  Cagiva Elefant. A rubber skirt. I pop rivetted it in place with a strip of flat aluminium bar on the inside to hold the rubber in place.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I also didn't like that the rear caliper was held in place with two bolts that were originally secured with some form of loctite.
I replaced them with two stainless steel socket head bolts drilled to take locking wire.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

That Lock-Wiring hurts my Aircraft Engineer's Eyes, please re-do it!!
You should really de-burr the holes as well, those sharp edges can wear away at the wire.

Nice to see someone else using Lock-Wire though, so it's a good start.

Stainless steel screws should not get used for brake calipers.
Simply use 8.8 screws and ensure the correct tightening torque.

uh ohh; here comes the A2 30X/8.8/Ti tensile strength -- snap -- fastener bolt thread AGAIN !

We have such a thread? At the German TÜV you could "get in trouble" with e.g. A2-70 screws.

The forums are littered with arguments both ways about rusty motorbike bolts (regular tensile steel) replaced with stuff that doesn't rust; they usually range between pure technical engineering perspective, through 'you need to reduce the torque settings' to the 'never had any issues in practice' angle. Trouble is they never end.

I've worked with TUV (in a professional role) in the past but limited to industrial process safety; I'm sure they won't be checking my GRiSO nuts or bolts anytime soon

I was half expecting the TUV lights and sirens to go berserk when I crossed the Border into Germany on my Stelvio!