Help!! Remap needed !

Hi all, I posted a week or so ago as a new GRiSO owner and I've recently found that my bike has a booster plug installed.... I don't like the idea of these things but don't really want to take it off as I'm aware they can be very snatchy. I had a 1000 D's multi that was almost unrideable anywhere close to town! So long story short I know it needs remapping. I've heard some in here can do wonders to help my much loved GRiSO give of her best!
Please help!
Thanks in advance.

Thanks for link but I've visited this site but can't do anything with it! No info, nothing, just directly tries to debit my PayPal!!
Any direct contact with the guys that can help me out would be cool !

There's a strip along the top of the screen to see the maps available. Perhaps your monitor is over scanning and missing this?

Oh look, there’s a menu that has information. Gasp!

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And look! In that menu, there’s a button to contact this Beetle character. Heavens!


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yeah, careful where you click Josh, we all know Beetle is full of it...
he trys to flog these unicorn sweat rubbed magical maps that have little basis in reality... just check any other website for proof! (and he writes his own testimonials... it is also known)





















of course if you want your bike to run like it should, actually better than it should, do what he says.

Hi beetle,
Still awaiting my Diagnostics lead from the UK, but in the meantime have downloaded the 3 respective bits of software from your ‘site. Thanks ... and once all complete a grateful donation will of course be coming...
In the meantime, have reset the tappets to 0.10 and 0.15mm (in/out).... and query whether this is a rollerisation change from the flat tappet 0.05/0.10mm numbers... or why? (simply interested - no biggy)
My next query is that of removing the snorkel - which I assume you mean permanently (rather than just the set-up process). Is this to improve ‘airflow’, and thence power as presumably you’ll be scheduling more fuel in? Given a choice I’d like to keep the GRiSO standard here... what are the ramifications if I were to leave the snorkel in place? (again no biggy... simply a preference)
Cheers...

^^^^^^

When you get those cables, do pay (more attention than I did) to attaching to correct +/-. $igh. New cables now inbound.

Bill

Lobo wrote:

Hi beetle,
Still awaiting my Diagnostics lead from the UK, but in the meantime have downloaded the 3 respective bits of software from your ‘site. Thanks ... and once all complete a grateful donation will of course be coming...
In the meantime, have reset the tappets to 0.10 and 0.15mm (in/out).... and query whether this is a rollerisation change from the flat tappet 0.05/0.10mm numbers... or why? (simply interested - no biggy)
My next query is that of removing the snorkel - which I assume you mean permanently (rather than just the set-up process). Is this to improve ‘airflow’, and thence power as presumably you’ll be scheduling more fuel in? Given a choice I’d like to keep the GRiSO standard here... what are the ramifications if I were to leave the snorkel in place? (again no biggy... simply a preference)
Cheers...

1. The GuzziDiag donation goes to Bernd, the developer. Be generous. He's a champion.

2. Tappets. 0.1 & 0.15 (4 & 6 thou) is the original and best setting. 0.15 & 0.2 (6 & 8 thou) came about after the flat tappet fiasco, with Guzzi trying in vain to extend tappet life. It seems to remain, clinging like a dried corpse husk, to the tappet specs. The alloy rocker carrier expands as it gets hot, thusly increasing valve clearance ever so slightly, despite convention telling us they should close up a wee bit. Ergo, if you set them at 0.15 & 0.2, you'll get a gaping maw when the engine is hot. More importantly, it's what I set the valves at when making the maps, so setting them at some other value will not be optimal. Plus, I said so.

3. Snorkel removal improves mid range torque by a bee's dick. Nothing bad will happen if you leave it in. Removing it also creates a space to stash goodies.

Beetle / Pete,

Just received my diagnostic ‘umbilical’ today, and note it has 12v leads incorporated.

Q - what is this supplying ... I’d assumed the ECU uses the bike / house battery, with any other power requirements supplied from the computer’s 5V USB.

Ta,
Simon

The cable takes power from the battery. Why? I don't bloody know! Mark can probably explain it. I presume its to power the chip in the cable as all the 'Talky-Talky' comes down from the USB Port to the diagnostic connector.

The Red alligator lead must be attached to the battery +ve. It powers the 'lectronics in the cable. You do not need to connect the black one.

Obey.

Ah! So it energises the bit with the powdered unicorn horn and Spirit of Ancestor in it. Excellent!

Ah... so a fancy-schmancy cable with its own brain eh?
Ta.