Fitting a Fuzeblock below the air box snorkel

I installed an FZ1 Fuzeblock below the snorkel of my airbox and thought some might like to see how this went. This is a fusebox with an internal relay that provides six separately fused circuits, each of which can be assigned to turn on with the ignition or to be on at all times. Installing it solved my problem of having too many wires with separate fuses coming from the battery terminals to feed accessories.

This photo shows the cleaned-up wiring at the battery after the installation, and the added, blue, 15A fuse (30A is the limit) for the new circuit that feeds the Fuzeblock. (The twisted black wires with an inline 25A fuse go to the dedicated battery charger/heated clothing SAE connector.)

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Here you can see the Fuzeblock nestled under the air box's snorkel:

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This is a view of the Fuzeblock, minus its cover, with the snorkel removed:

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Installation of the electrical parts was straightforward. I mounted the 15A fuse holder and the Fuzeblock on velcro pads, making them easy to move when needed, for example when getting access to an air box cover screw now covered by the fuse holder. I collected the positive and negative wires together in separate pvc sleeves, feeding them to the left and right sides of the Fuzeblock, respectively. The main wires from the battery to the fuse box are 14AWG, also sleeved.

But just installing the Fuzeblock under the snorkel is not enough, since getting at it later for a blown fuse would require removing the six screws of the air box cover. So I did some surgery on the snorkel to allow it to be removed and refitted while the air box cover stays in place.

The snorkel is retained by molded flanges that grab the rectangular cutout in the air box cover. I completely removed the inner flange along both sides, and trimmed the top and bottom inner flanges somewhat. The complete outer flange was left unmodified. This photo shows the snorkel after those operations:

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I also removed the complete inner duct of the snorkel, as shown in this photo:

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This last modification made it possible to hook the lower flanges over the lower lip of the air box opening, and then capture the upper edge of the air box cutout between the two upper flanges without having to remove the air box cover. The fit is very good, I think. There is no particular reason to be concerned about any air leak here and it seems like there are no forces that are going to dislodge the snorkel as it is now secured.

Anyway, I've now got a relay-fusebox combo that can support 30 amps total (up to 10 amps per circuit), and that is convenient to access. I've always wanted this for my GRiSO, but could never see where to squeeze one in, once I had used the space between the seat and the tail light for the Gorilla alarm. Solving the snorkel removal/refitting problem opened up just the area the fuse box needed.

Moto

P.S. Sources:

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Nice work. Toss the snorkel - improves mid range a little.

Impressive.

That said, sentences like this from obviously skilled wrenches skeer me: "Installation of the electrical parts was straightforward."

Seriously, nice work.

Bill

Thanks, both! I'll probably experiment taking the snorkel on and off to see what difference in performance and sound I can perceive.

Moto

Mr Moto,

You probably won't notice a difference without the snorkel, but that alone is great because you have more room in there. I ditched mine a few months ago. Glad I did. I silicone glued a small piece of black gutter screen on the inside to keep "stuff" out (not really needed I'm sure).

Moto,

Certainly more elegant than the solution I found.

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