Remove intake hose (snorkel) on airbox

Is there any interest / advantage to remove the intake hose on the airbox ? I read that some people did.

If so, how simple is this ?

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It's easy. Pull the lid off the airbox, and you can slide the snorkel out. On the 8V, it improves mid range torque slightly. I don't believe it makes a big difference on the 2V. It will increase intake honk.

Major benefit is the extra room to carry a puncture repair kit (without blocking airflow)

Thanks for your reply

Understood. No mechanical improvement on 1100’s but remove the snorkel gives a little space under the seat.

Probably will stay as is

Took mine out, no appreciable gain, so put back in. It is a great way to get stuff sucked into the airbox though lol. I prefer being able to put stuff under the seat and not get sucked into the airbox. But YMMV

Fuzeblok, puncture repair kit in small case, rubber solution in plastic bag.....
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I removed mine on my 2v 1100 with a beetle map this weekend while adding a Eastern beaver harness... It didn't like it. When the bike is cold, when I open the throttle more then half, the Motor looses power and sounds choked.
Does this suggests I have a fuelling issue/imbalance?

Sounds like something is blocking the air intake.

That's what I thought as well but then I removed the seat to check and nothing was in the way.
If I remove the snorkel and cover part of the intake with my hand, the motor runs fine when I open the throttle. If I have the snorkel on, it runs fine as well. It's only when cold with the snorkel off and nothing in the way of the intake that the problem happens

Evil, Try doing a throttle body balance, resetting learned parameters (should be a moot point on one of Beetle's maps but do it anyway), reset your TPS. Probably worthwhile checking your valve gaps, while you are doing things. Do you suffer from occasional high idle?

There is plenty of help on this forum on how to do these tasks.

Normally, removing the snorkel gives better mid-range pickup, with a little induction roar added in for effect.

Oz1200Guzzi wrote:

Evil, Try doing a throttle body balance, resetting learned parameters (should be a moot point on one of Beetle's maps but do it anyway), reset your TPS. Probably worthwhile checking your valve gaps, while you are doing things. Do you suffer from occasional high idle?

There is plenty of help on this forum on how to do these tasks.

Normally, removing the snorkel gives better mid-range pickup, with a little induction roar added in for effect.

Thing is I did that already in the past month in that order:

1. Agostini muffler on
   
2. Bettle map in
   
3. TPS and autolearnin reset + CO trim
   
4. some riding --> all fine
   
5. Valve clearance adjustemnt
   
6. Throttle body balance + TPS reset + CO trim (maybe id put it too lean?)
   
7. Some riding (everything fine with the very occasional rise in idle for 5s on a warm start)
   
8. remove snorkle --> can't open the throttle fully in the first minute after a cold start or it bogs down. After that everything is fine.
   

What would the high idle suggest? Is it possible that my last CO trim was a tad lean and removing the snorkle made it even leander by letting more air in which is causing the problem?

I would go +2 on the CO trim and see if that helps. CO trim affects all of the map including idle. Don't go too far, too fast.

For what it's worth, mine is like that on start-up - mine is a 2V 1200. My stepper is disconnected as it was playing up. 5 seconds high idle is normal - mine used to idle at 2000 to 3000, sometimes hunting between them. It sounds like your stepper is OK.

Thanks. Will try that tomorrow when I have time and report back.
Current CO trim is at -2 as I had the impression that I was smelling some fuel before

Take the air box lid off and see what is blocking it.

Mine doesn't like first few minutes when it's cold - fluffs & farts around generally but is fine after a couple minutes warm up/riding & it does that with all variants of beetle map I've used......it's just not enough to worry about. Weirdly it doesn't do that at all with the original factory map BUT then with that it rides shite on part throttle all the time.

Pete Roper wrote:

Take the air box lid off and see what is blocking it.

Again nothing is blocking it. I took it apart. And the bike does that when the air intake is bigger. If I remove the snorkel and put my hand on the opening to close down part it, the problem goes away. This would suggest that the bike is able to suck too much air when the throttle is open and the snorkel removed.

i.e. lean.

Figured it out. The air filter was not seated correctly in his seat and air was leaking into the system without resistance. Replaced the filter correctly and now the bike runs fine without snorkel!

Richard wrote:

Is there any interest / advantage to remove the intake hose on the airbox ? I read that some people did.

If so, how simple is this ?

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KC34 sell @ €25, a “Moto Guzzi GRiSO air filter frame, allows you to keep the air filter in place if the original cover is removed”

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What’s the thoughts on this item?

Bob

Don't. Just..don't.

Completely pointless.

Please send the €25 to me instead and I'll send you a personally autographed picture of my scrotum which would have a similar value and performance enhancing features.

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Whilst under the seat, what are these 2 sockets?

Bob

The black one is the diagnostic port for the ECU that is used for mapping and tuning, the white one is the port for the dashboard which is pretty much redundant as there have never been any dash updates for W5AM Guzzis.