Alternator belt replacement

I measured the one at work then made my own, works great.

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Hi Steve,
If you have the plans please share with the tribe ...
Most of it would be feasible for me....The bit with the small squared hole comes from a socket, right? The hexagonal hole is from a socket slice too, I believe...
The angle between the two sections is important or can you use the device with different angles?

I have also considered using a small dinamometer/scale to pull the current belt and measure the force needed to displace it some mm (10~20mm), and replicate the conditions in the new one...I guess too tight will be worse than too loose....Too tight can kill the alternator shaft bearing, too loose maybe you could hear it slipping...

I have the tool in my toolbox and have used it precisely once! Since then I simply do it by feel and how much effort it takes to twist the belt through 90 degrees. If you have any experience tensioning belts it's really a no-brainer.

Yes Pete, but you have calibrated fingers,....
I changed a couple of belts in cars...Maybe I'll try it...

Would be great to see a Pete video on this someday. I’ve watched the throttle body one way more than once. Probably hard to get a camera in there…..

I'm in the 90 degree twist camp....growing up (mainly Ford escort MK 2/3/4s) that was always the 'rule' .........slacken the alternator bolt - put length of wooden batten down to floor and lever the alternator casing - alter lever until approx 90 degrees twist - tighten alternator bolt.....& I already have too many 'special tools'

Matias wrote:

Hi Steve,
If you have the plans please share with the tribe ...
Most of it would be feasible for me....The bit with the small squared hole comes from a socket, right? The hexagonal hole is from a socket slice too, I believe...
The angle between the two sections is important or can you use the device with different angles?

I have also considered using a small dinamometer/scale to pull the current belt and measure the force needed to displace it some mm (10~20mm), and replicate the conditions in the new one...I guess too tight will be worse than too loose....Too tight can kill the alternator shaft bearing, too loose maybe you could hear it slipping...

Yes, when I get down to toolbox, I'll measure centers. Have to change bandage on cheek 1st from Mohs surgery. Had some Basil Cell cancer removed. Size of a quarter. Haven't seen the fix yet. I'll be back.

GuzziSteve wrote:

Yes, when I get down to toolbox, I'll measure centers. Have to change bandage on cheek 1st from Mohs surgery. Had some Basil Cell cancer removed. Size of a quarter. Haven't seen the fix yet. I'll be back.

Yes Steve, all this can wait....Best wishes of a quick recovery

paulbrice wrote:

I'm in the 90 degree twist camp....growing up (mainly Ford escort MK 2/3/4s) that was always the 'rule' .........slacken the alternator bolt - put length of wooden batten down to floor and lever the alternator casing - alter lever until approx 90 degrees twist - tighten alternator bolt.....& I already have too many 'special tools'

Paul, I'm not sure I'm getting this right....
The part about levering the alternator up to tension the belt I get it....
The 90º technique means that with the right tension you should be able to rotate the belt (lenght between the pulleys) 90º with your fingers without a major effort (this is at least what I understood from Pete's post).

Is this right?

The 90 degree twist test is all well and good, providing the distance between the pulleys, and the size/design of the belt are the same, or nearly so. Comparing a GRiSO to a Ford is apples to oranges.

Usually, a belt is tensioned by "x" amount of push in the middle of the belt resulting in a certain measure of deflection. For example, 10# of force nets 1/2" deflection. Of course, that's the Murican numbers......

The V100 uses a really short, wide belt and it certainly wouldn't pass the 90* test but even so the factory suggestion you use a meter and tension it by harmonic seems a bit like overkill. I know it's how certain Ducati cam belts are supposed to be tensioned but I have to wonder how many are?

I use harmonic tensioning on gear at work. It works surprisingly well.

Oh I'm sure it does. I'm just a bit skeptical about how many shops would have one or use it regularly. Just colour me cynical....

Last Ducati I did, I used a frequency app on my phone. Worked surprisingly well. But you need the spec.

I'm Back, OK the center to center point on tool halves is 80mm

Half #1 is 3/8" adapter to 19mm 6 point socket slice, face side
Half #2 is 19mm nut to 1/2'' socket end, back side
Half #2 is 3/4" solid rod to 24mm socket, face side

AND I have a 1 3/4" slice on my cheek from just under eye to bottom of nostril, most follows crease on side of nose. HOLY SHIT The hole she dug was size of a quarter(US)

GuzziSteve wrote:

I'm Back,   OK the center to center point on tool halves is 80mm
I have a 1 3/4" slice on my cheek from just under eye to bottom of nostril, most follows crease on side of nose. HOLY SHIT  The hole she dug was size of a quarter(US)

You don't want pussyfoot surgery with basal cell Ca

Best wishes for recovery

GuzziSteve wrote:

I'm Back,   OK the center to center point on tool halves is 80mm

Half #1 is 3/8" adapter to 19mm 6 point socket slice, face side
Half #2 is 19mm nut to 1/2'' socket end, back side
Half #2 is 3/4" solid rod to 24mm socket, face side

AND I have a 1 3/4" slice on my cheek from just under eye to bottom of nostril, most follows crease on side of nose. HOLY SHIT  The hole she dug was size of a quarter(US)

Thank you very much Steve.

Better safe than sorry.... Esse

Best wishes for a speedy recovery, Steve!

Pete

Thanks Steve, didn't know anything till few weeks ago, just stopped in to renew a script. I wonder how long it was there, last I was at the dermatologist was 2yrs.
Big surprise when I saw the cut, just call me Capone.