valve specs

just checking

.1

and .15. is recommended on this site

and is also what is in the workshop manual


elsewhere, (I think on WG) I read that the factory specifies larger gaps. But the 1200 workshop manual seems to be in agreement.


So I'm a bit confused.



I'm asking because I'll go in and check them if potentially they have been set wider by a previous mechanic, if not I'll wait until the next scheduled service in 6000kms...

0.1 & 0.15.

Thus endeth your confusion.

thanks, but not quite endeth'ed

elsewhere, (I think on WG) I read that the factory specifies larger gaps

is that nonsense baloney piffle??

Wait. If they are set larger it will do no harm. You may get a slightly louder ticking noise but you'll be hard pressed to hear it over the cacophony of all the other bits and pieces thrashing about.

If you are running one of Mark's or any other open loop map built for those specs it will run better, (Well noticeably better to me.) with the valves at 0.1 & 0.15 than it will with wider clearances but it won't be extreme, damage your motorbike, make your penis fall off or do anything else messy and inconvenient.

Why do youse lot always need to fiddle with your bloody Motorbikes? Just jam the petrol bowser into them, turn the key and go and see if you can catch the horizon! They aren't made of pixie wings and unicorn ivory! They're a fairly unsophisticated air pump with wheels, a seat and a horn! Go ride the bloody things and stop faffing!

Lazlokovacs wrote:

thanks, but not quite endeth'ed

elsewhere, (I think on WG) I read that the factory specifies larger gaps

is that nonsense baloney piffle??

This is the 'Factory' that continued selling motorbikes with a top end that destroyed itself for at least two years after they knew they couldn't make it work! I'd rather set fire to my scrotum than follow their advice on anything to do with the valves!

Pete Roper wrote:

Wait. If they are set larger it will do no harm. You may get a slightly louder ticking noise but you'll be hard pressed to hear it over the cacophony of all the other bits and pieces thrashing about.

If you are running one of Mark's or any other open loop map built for those specs it will run better, (Well noticeably better to me.) with the valves at 0.1 & 0.15 than it will with wider clearances but it won't be extreme, damage your motorbike, make your penis fall off or do anything else messy and inconvenient.

errr I know that


thanks though!!


did my question not make sense?


I've got the bike sitting there until I can get into the sump due to weird cam chainy noise. which will be wednesday as I'm waiting for gaskets.

I could however check the valves.

I know that the valves were last set by TLM in holland 4000k ago. I figure they would do it to spec.

IF IF IF  (sorry for shouting) it is true that there are ALTERNATIVE valve settings recommended by the factory, then they could reasonably have set them to the wider settings.

In that case I'll whip the heads off, if not I won't bother.


My question is -  could somebody confirm or deny that there are alternative settings out there!?!

There are a host of settings. The factory tried a lot of things when hoping to work out a cheap, simple way to stop the top end trashing itself with flat tappets.

Then there are the aftermarket experts and chinless wonders who parrot the old fictions that the cams changed and the higher performance cams needed bigger clearances. Not only is this wrong because while there were a couple of different profiles for different models the profiles within models never changed but no explanation was ever given as to why this was so! It was just relying on old, outdated theories based around expansion rate discrepancies in ancient, usually pushrod, motors with different components made of different metals and with poor or marginal cooling ability! The need for a specified clearance has nothing directly to do with 'Performance' apart from the fact that a motor that produces more work will also produce more heat! Ipso facto bits will expand more! What isn't taken in to account is that almost the entire motor apart from the cams, tappets, valves and rockers on the 8V is made of light Aluminium alloy and will expand far more than the steel bits for any given increase in heat. The valve lash opens up on an 8V as it heats up. Wider clearances set cold are the last thing you want! Believe me, I got a lot of burns and blisters finding that out, not to mention the oil spray!

By all means do the valves while waiting for parts, don't forget NOT to pull the plug caps off from the top! And please, please don't take the heads off------

a post without a penis reference!!! is everything ok???




thanks for the answer

and yes

*covers.

If you run anything other than 0.1 & 0.15, don't bother getting one of my maps.

if it's not clear from the above, I'm not suggesting running anything other than .1 and .15!!!!



if it's also not yet clear, I've read pretty much everything you and Pete have posted on GRiSO's and I trust that you guys know your stuff!


I have personally spent some time trying to map a guzzi with FI and I am extremely grateful to the job that you have done, which I think is excellent.

so thanks again.


my question was... oh well never mind, it's in the thread...


ps I've already got one of your maps....

make that 2 now...