Help with Gear Indicator Wiring

When did riders start needing a gear indicator. I missed it.

Maybe about the same time riders needed heated grips, different seat, smaller turn signals, etc?

Rushjob wrote:

When did riders start needing a gear indicator. I missed it.

Since I got older and got better things to do than count gear changes.

Now when I am running 70 mph, I know how many rpms I should be turning.

Exactly! I rest my case

I have no need for one but if others would like one it's no skin off my nose. (Shrug.)

Maybe a stupid one but HealTech does have a GIpro DS for Aprilia Tuono. Would this one be compatible with the GRiSO should Tuono ECU is equivalent to GRiSO ?

Advantage of the DS vs Xtype is to be connected directly to the diagnosis socket.

Doesn't the Tuono run the 5SM/7SM?

What healtec told me was the GRiSO diagnostic port does not provide the information needed to run the indicator

beetle wrote:

Doesn't the Tuono run the 5SM/7SM?

All the V4's run the 7SM.

I agree. To each their own. Personally I'm waiting for front end collision avoidance and lane position sensors so I don't have to be concerned with crossing over or running wide off the road before buying my next bike. I can simply accelerate while enjoying the view untill it's time to apply the brakes.
YEEHAW! That'll finally be motorcycling @ it's ultimate best!

Handle bar heating is nice when its below freezing and you have to drive for 3 hours but the only thing i miss is the abs. abs has saved my ass a few times already

I Agree with That. ABS Totally Saved me on the Big Bike. I would have been Toast if it wasn't for ABS. Its a Great Feature. At least the GRiSO is a little lighter......

Installed & working.


1. Locate the speedo sensor cable connector. If you look down the right side betwixt the frame and the Tupperware near the relays, you'll spy it.


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2. Now poke your hand from underneath, and you should be able to pull it down to expose it to your lookenpeepers. The lead from the main loom is very short, maybe 50mm (2 inches). I ran the supplied harness along the right side, from near the steering head, under the frame with the main loom to the speedo sensor connector, along with a seperate wire to connect the harness to the phase sensor.


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3. Using the supplied cable taps proved difficult, due to the short lead. Posi-taps would be better, but as I didn't have any,  I decided to solder the lead tails directly to the connector. Fortunately I have the special tool to pop pins out of the connector. I tinned the tails, poked them down inside the crimped pins, then soldered them. After you have connected the harness, poke the connector back up and pull as much of the slack from the harness as possible. Get as much length as you can at the steering head end.


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4. Remove the fuel tank. The phase sensor connector is near the alternator.


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5. Attach the separate wire you ran with the harness. I trimmed a wee bit of the sheath from the tail from the loom, and used one of the supplied wire taps. Plenty of room here.



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6. Mount the gear indicator in your desired location, then connect it to the harness, running the wire neatly down the wires and brake lines.


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7. Switch on key. Voila! The "L" means it's in learning mode.



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8. Calibrating it is a piece of piss. Start the engine. Let it idle for a bit. The "L" will start to flash a bit faster, then change to "1". Select first gear and proceed with forward motion in the frontal direction. Maintain 3000-4000 RPM's, then after a few seconds it will display "n'' (for 'next'). Change up to second. "2" appears, then after a few seconds, "n". Change to third, then repeat for all gears.

Thanks Beetle, great writeup and pictures to make it easier for me to do.

Hey Beetle, What type of pin removal tool is required?
I may have one. Is it the hollow tube type or a flat small screw driver type or something completely different? I like the idea of soldering to the pin instead of the clamp-on style.
I assume the phase connector didn't allow for pin removal?

It's the hollow tube type.

The phase connector has one of the AMP Superseal connectors. It needs a special tool that I don't have. The funny screwdriver types. I have successfully used a small screwdriver on the Superseal connectors in the past, but this time I couldn't be arsed.

There are a range of tools, that if you were to stock up for your particular bike will cost you hundreds of dollars, only to be used very sporadically. The AMP (hollow) tool I have cost over $100 by itself. Most of these tools can be made for little or no cost if you have the imagination and time/skills. Tin cans are your friend (no not aluminium), and keep an eye out for small pieces of metal that "look" useful. You could be surprised.

I have a tube type that may work when/if I decide to do this project.

Beetle, I can't find the speedo connector on my bike. At least not one with the same wire colors. You found yours without removing the body panel that wraps around the seat? That may be my next project. I did find a flat connector with yellow/green and blue wires near the diagnostic connector. It is plugged into nothing. Do you happen to know what that connector is for?

That'll be the dash diagnostic port.

Yeah, my speedo connector was easy to find. Yours could be poked up there anywhere. The rear Tupperware is quite flexible. You should be able to pull it away far enough to see the wiring by removing the three screws along the right side.

Great! Thanks for that. What's the black connector with the cap back by the rear fuse block?
I thought that one was the diag port. Are there two or am I confused?

Yes, there are two. The dash port is there for software updates to the dash but there have never been any!

Thanks Pete, That explains a lot.

I did finally locate my speedo cable connector. Geez! Tony didn't do me any favors when he ran that wire but I found it. Not much slack but I have a plan. Also discovered my air filter was much dirtier than I would have expected after 3300 miles. These big engines suck a lot of air! I had only smaller bikes before and filters lasted longer. All good.