Final drive rod

As I've taken out swing arm for checking bearing, final drive rod stay to hang on pin of gear box. I did not use any violence till now.
How can I disconnect it?
As I will grease bearings, what is usual maintenance of this rod?
Thank you

There is no need to remove the driveshaft unless you need to change the inner bearing race on the RH side, you can just flip the cone out and slide it past the front yokes.

If you do need to remove the shaft it is retained on the output shaft by an internal circlip. To remove it exert rearward pressure on the shaft and give the front yoke a sharp rap with a hammer rearwards and it will pop the circlip out of its groove and the shaft will slide off.

Thank you a lot. As do not have such need I will just grease swing arm bearings and try to put all back. I have a feeling it will be easier to connect rod first on carc side and then fit gear box pin when fitting swing arm back.

So, I am not enough smart to install it in one piece. I can't fit rot to pin of final shaft. I will need to install arm without CARC and then to install the CARC part. What torque should I use for 4 screws fixing CARC to swing arm?

I do it the same way, only 4 bolts. Just easier than struggling. 50nm is torque or 37ftlbs. Same for brake caliper bolts.

Pete may be busy, and I happened to see this.

Thanks a lot Steve. Even this will not be so easy, as beside bolts there is used silicone or something similar. So it will take me longer to separate it.

I always split the CARC off the shaft tube.
Yes its more parts on the floor, but it makes the unit lighter.
Also I think inserting the spline of the shaft into the CARC when the shaft is 'through' the shaft tube (swingarm) is the easier option.
I use Permaseal gasket on that joint. Seems to keep the insides in and the out sides out, while breaking open easily. But silicone or something is all you need. Adds about 5 minutes - 1/4 of a beer to the job

The way you are attempting to do this is another classic case of trying not to remove a few more parts and thereby making the task much harder or, in this case impossible.

Apart from the wight and cumbersomeness of the entire assembly there is no way in the world you will be able get the front yoke to engage on the spline of the output shaft and be sure that the circlip, which prevents the shaft from floating, is engaged in its groove.

As with almost all other procedures it's best to just start at the beginning and then work towards your goal taking stuff off as you come to it. Leaving things like the bevelbox attached to the swingarm just caused pain and frustration and makes the job ten times longer.

Start by removing the brake caliper and speedo sensor. Then the wheel and the four bolts holding the bevelbox to the swingarm. Next disconnect the reaction rod from the reactive bridge of the CARC. On very early models you should be able to just wriggle the box off the dowel pins that align it.

On later, post 2009 models they started glueing the bevelbox to the swingarm with snot because people whined about oil mist from the joint. That stopped the oil mist but the payback was it can make it very difficult to detach the box from the arm, in some cases I've had to use a bottle jack between the shock linkage and the unused ABS sensor mount on the bevelbox to break the seal.

Once the bevelbox is out of the way the side plates can be removed, the cable ties that hold the rubber boot between the gearbox and swingarm snipped and the swingarm spindle removed from the left hand side by undoing the pinch bolts, removing the castellated preload sleeve and then unscrewing the spindle itself.

The swingarm can then be slid down off the shaft which remains attached to the gearbox output shaft.

The bearing cones can then be plucked from their outer races in the frame and inspected. If they are still OK they can simply be packed properly and reinserted in the races in the frame and the back end reassembled as a reverse of the removal procedure. If the bearings need replacing you will have a whole world of fun in front of you as getting the races out of the frame is a king sized PITA!

Pete

Well I am not sure what to do as joint is turning around one ax evidently harder then around the other[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I did try to remove seger's fuses but return them back as lids did not moved.

Hi Guys, I have a question on the shaft drive. My 2006 G11 seems to have noticeably more drive shaft backlash than other brand shaft-driven bikes Ive owned. With the engine off, first gear selected and rear wheel off the ground I can rotate the back wheel back & forward about 60mm measured at wheel rim.
Does this sound normal, or should this be investigated? The bike has done about 34000klms.
Most annoying when rolling on/off throttle. I have not had the GRiSO from new, but from 14000klms
It hasn't had any driveshaft greasing or swingarm greasing to my knowledge.

Thanks Gouldy

The backlash is perfectly normal, it's between the dogs on the gear pinions. Your shock linkage and swingarm bearings will most likely need replacing if they have never beengreased and the bike has ever seen rain for any length of time.

Pete