Air box hoses

8V idle should be a bit higher, 1250 +/- 50. Nobody has buggered about with the throttle stop screw have they? It has been tuned correctly?

Pete

hmm reading the idle speed from the dashand maybe reading it wrong as its in 250rpm segments i will check with actual speed with guzzidiag to be sure, no the throttle stop hasn't been touched. It was tuned after being recently rollerised. Will take a good look at everything tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice and help. Its the last little niggle about this bike to sort...at the moment anyway !!

Did you confirm your valve clearances were 0.1 & 0.15mm (4 & 6 thou)?

no haven't checked valve clearances yet.

Ok problem solved! Had time to lift the tank today to inspect the stepper and look what i found!!!
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Looks like the previous owner had fitted what i believe to be a stepper shut off valve?? For some unknown reason this was hidden out of reach under the tank ....Why..??? who knows??? Maybe to try and solve a problem he had?? I did have to replace the throttle position sensor weeks into owning so maybe he thought he had a problem with the stepper. As soon as i removed the extra plumbing and tap and started the bike, idle rpm rose to about 1400rpm then gradually came down to around 1200 rpm.
The plastic tap had a very small aperture and had collected a little oil so i guess this was restricting air flow, also the pipe looked a little kinked the way it had been fitted. I had lifted the tank before months back and didnt really notice this extra plumbing, which is now in the bin! So I then balanced the throttle bodies, reset tps and trims and all seems great. Lets see what happens when its cold, but im confident this is now sorted! Thanks to everyone for their input in this thread the bike is now niggle free!!!! just in time for some sunshine too!

Blocking the stepper! Work of the divil I tell you!

Hi all.
Realize this is an older thread but i have a related problem.
Purchased my 2013 GRiSO a couple of weeks ago.
I soon discovered an oil leak. Was told by my local dealer it was probably the plug tube o ring and to bring it by.
Closer inspection revealed cracks in hoses at rear of BOTH cylinders and oil was dripping down from there and onto fins. These are the hose Paul describes carrying oil and gases to/from the black plastic box under steering head ( sorry for amateurish descriptions).
Does anyone know a part number for hoses/clamps to replace?
And / or anyone know exact specs of hose, as im sure it doesnt necessarily have to be a Guzzi part. I assume i could find it in McMaster carr catalog or similar.
See pics.
Thanks in advance for any help!

There was another thread about this that pointed out that most regular oil resistant neoprene rubber tubing isn't good at 'U' turns (flattens and can block flow). The OEM items are molded shapes that don't suffer the flattening.

Personally would try and get hold of OEM ones but otherwise try (google or local shops) different black neoprene tubing with similar diameter and specifically check how well it maintains shape when bent through a fairly tight 180 degrees OR find a solid 180 degree joining plastic/metal piece to handle the bends.

Could also be possible it is historic mistreatment & you could chop the end off and refit with jubilee clip if there is enough slack in length (or create some slack by adding straight through connectors in the length under tank)

Cheap fix is to cut the ends off back to solid rubber & reattach with better Fuel injection hose clamps.

A proper job would be to look it up on say Harpers website, which I think is the easiest to use & then find the best price. I replaced mine this spring on my 2013 & they weren't cheap.

These are Oetiker clamps and unless you have some and the correct tool, go and get some ordinary (worm drive) hose clamps. May sure you do not overtighten them, though.

I just replaced these on my (now) 10 year old Sport - looked much like those and was leaking oil. You may have to wait for supply as (I would imagine) most importers wouldn't have these on the shelf, but (as is often the case) I might be wrong. At least they are not expensive.

If you have straight sections, an auto parts store will probably have stock, the bent ones need to be moulded.

Yodasoldier wrote:

Ok folks, question time, looking into my stepper motor and no warm up idle at cold start issue.When starting from cold there is no rise to 1200-1300 rpm as it used to. The bike idles fine once warm. Recently the bike sometimes stumbles and stalls on first start up. Looking through the info on this forum the stepper motor that controls this could be at fault. Now the stepper is fed via a hose to the airbox. The airbox has two hoses that i can see conneted at the front, one on the left and one on the right. On inspection the one on the right is not connected to the airbox. Will connect it up later as its a bit awkward to get to. Could this be a cause of the problem?

How many kms/miles does the bike have? Have you ever cleaned the TBs? Often cold start problems are due to deposits.

Thanks for the help. Turned out to be an easy fix.
Just love NOT going to the dealer!

I see you have a U.K. Flag symbolizing your place of birth. We, while not Scottish, are known for being 'frugal'.

Be aware that hose clamps come in several grades ranging from cheap with sharp edges on the inside diameter that cuts into the rubber. To high end where there is a smooth metal 'ring' that protects the rubber.

You've fixed this once, you'll figure out which clamps work & which don't.

Good call on the clamps! I actually picked up cheap ones at Auto part store to get on the road on a Sunday morning.
Will replace with better ss ones shortly.
And yes, although in USA, my Britishness does love a bargain!

I mention this cos I found by doing exactly that!

Lasted 6 weeks or so !