Blowing 30 amp main fuse

I recently bought a Garmin GPS to use on the GRiSO. Everything worked ok for a few weeks, then on a ride, stopped for a coffee and the bike wouldn't start. Had no dash at all. Checked the fuses and the main 30 amp fuse had blown, swapped in the spare, the bike started and I rode home.

Few days later while riding the bike just shut off, same fuse. Replace, bike starts and is fine. It's gotten progressively worse and I've been researching and read all the threads on blown fuses. I have since bought the replacement ground cables and the startus interuptus cables, which I just now added.

Every time I replace the 30 amp fuse, the dash initializes and shows APMG 0023, then goes off. Turn the key on and the dash sweeps normally but as soon as I touch the starter it blows the fuse.

I have checked and cleaned the main ground behind the starter cover with contact cleaner but I just received my DeOxit so will go over all the connections with DeOxit. I thought the startus interuptus cable would fix this but apparently not.

There's no error codes stored, other than the APMG 0023 shown when the fuse is replaced. Does the 0023 point to "Coil 1 Error DC Gnd ECU 23"?

That makes sense as being a grounding issue but I believe I've checked all the grounds, including the ground strap for the ECU. Any tips or pointers appreciated, I'm not sure what to check next.

PS I removed the Garmin cables in the interest of trouble shooting.

Check your battery. I suspect you've got a dud battery.




.

Forgot to mention, it's a brand new fully charged Motobatt AGM. I replaced the battery after reading one of the other threads with the same issue. I find it weird that it started out very intermittent but now is consistently blowing the fuse. You'd think that now it's consistent I could track it down.

Motobatt? Hmm.  

Anyway, if it only blows when you hit the starter, you might want to check the starter circuit for shorts.





.

Not sure if it helps, but when the fuse blows, the dash goes blank but the bike continues to crank. Until I release the starter button, then it's dead and won't crank.

Sure sounds like the battery to me. Have you attached a voltmeter and looked at the volts as you crank?

10.9 - 11.0 v while cranking

Close to critical. My guess is it's the inrush current spiking the fuse. Moto batt I'm not fond of, is it a Ytch20 or a 16? I'd it's a 16 it will be at best marginal......

Pete

What's the CCA rating?

Interesting post over on GT where "it's the heat causing the startus interruptus" especially when hot. This heat is emanating from the exhaust. Heat deflection tape around the starter or wrapping your exhaust is the solution. Apparently...

Just adding fuel to the fire...

Oz1200Guzzi wrote:

Interesting post over on GT where "it's the heat causing the startus interruptus" especially when hot. This heat is emanating from the exhaust. Heat deflection tape around the starter or wrapping your exhaust is the solution. Apparently...
.

I snicker while farting in their general direction. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]






.

Oh fer fuck's sakes.......

I just blew a fuse laughing. I love this site!

Pete Roper wrote:

Close to critical. My guess is it's the inrush current spiking the fuse. Moto batt I'm not fond of, is it a Ytch20 or a 16? I'd it's a 16 it will be at best marginal......

Pete

beetle wrote:

What's the CCA rating?

Well crap. I could have sworn my OEM battery was a Yuasa YTX16CH-BS and the Motobatt site lists the replacement battery for the GRiSO as their MBTX16U so I thought I was set.

My OEM battery (just walked out to garage to check) is a YTX20CH-BS, now 3 years old but drained twice when we were gone for months.

Can I test this by removing the Motobatt and using the car battery from my SUV? Car NOT running obviously.

The YTX20 has 270cca while the MBTX16 has 250cca so that's most likely my problem. Feel like such a dolt. Thanks for pointing out the obvious.

While there are some LiFe batteries that seem to work OK I'm still dubious about them but Yuassa now make fully sealed AGM's that fit and seem to be really good and offer vast CCA. While not as light as a LiFe by a long chalk I've installed several now and starting is always a 'Touch the button' affair.

Pete

The Motobatt was an AGM battery not Lithium but just the wrong size. I should have checked my old one but just assumed their website would list the correct battery.

It happened to me. I bought my GRiSO from a guy who mounted a 12V 11ah Battery on it. After a month or so, it started blowing my 30 Amp fuse. I called costarrican dealer and they fixed it for me. They said it was a missconnection in one of the electrical components. After that, it has been starting since with the same battery. After reading your posts I am again concerned.

LiFePO4 are awesome and have more CCA to boot. Just saying...

jretanacr wrote:

It happened to me....They said it was a misconnection in one of the electrical components.

Could you be more specific about the "misconnection?"

The symptom being intermittent and progressing to constant leads me to believe it's something mechanical that started to fail and has now failed completely. I wonder about the starter relay. Relay coils can fail two ways - going open and not working at all, or going to ground and causing a dead short when energized. I'd replace the starter relay and see what happens.

There has been discussion on the old 1200Sport.com site (now defunct) and I believe on GT too. Some of the solenoids on the starters have been "treated" with grease or similar. In time this will assume the neighborhood detritus and end up not being grease but a thick concoction of things you don't need in a solenoid.

Coming from an electrical background, solenoids should always (I mean ALWAYS) be kept clean and dry, for this very reason.

Sticky solenoids will blow a fuse eventually due to the inrush current is not moderated by having an iron core pulled into it, and fusey goes POP. Might be worth a look at your solenoid. If it is dirty/greasy/oily, clean it all and re-assemble dry. if this is the cause the mr fuse should be more happier and won't blow his cool.

If you need more theory, I can dig some up...

Mr Tony is 100 puss-cent correct. Solenoids must be clean and dry. Lubricate at your peril.





.

First time I have ever been 100% correct in my life - now this is a life changing moment... First time for everything I guess!

Can I be the FIG for a day?

No.





.

OK, I'll just stand over here...