Engine Warning Light

My engine warning light has started to become a daily, occurrence. It used to come on no and again after the engine was good and warm and running at idle speeds but I could roll on some throttle and let it go back to idle and light would not come back on. However, after a recent oil change, it now comes on at idle after the engine is hot, every time? I can give it some gas and the light will go out, but then once I'm back under 1600 rpms, it comes back on. There is no error code to match it and no change in the sound or feel of the engine. So the questions is, why? Do I pay my mechanic to plug into the computer or can I read the Diagnose part of the computer on my own?

Only thing I have noticed that correlates is the engine oil level. It seems when I've filled the oil level to above the 50% part of the dipstick, the engine light acts up. Could too much oil generate too much back pressure and cause this? I am not a mechanic by any measure, so excuse my ignorance here.

Anyone have ideas I would love to hear them. I think I will be buying a turkey baster and some hose and will remove some of the oil to get it to say 40% and see what happens.

Thanks in advance for your advice. (only other change I made to the bike was the GPR exhaust can, reset fuses and validated current OEM fuel map).

No, too much oil won't cause that sort of issue.

First thing I'd do is replace the oil pressure sender as these are notoriously flakey. Normally though if they are going out you'll get dashboard errors 7 and/or 8 memorised or active. As for getting a diagnostic plug in? This won't tell you anything much more about an issue like this than the OBD but anything the factory tooling can tell you you can find out yourself with Guzzidiag.

If swapping the switch doesn't cure it the next step would be to pull the sump and, on pre '15 models, the spacer to check that the gasket hasn't blown out around one of the oil galleries and that the pick-ups are seated and sealling correctly.

If your bike is a pre-roller model it could also be indicative of bearing damage due to particulate contamination but this is unlikely.

Go the switch first.

Pete

Thanks Pete. Appreciate the knowledge. I'll opt for the switch first. My bike is a 2013 (production late 2012) model. I paid for the last oil service and am assuming the my mech would have checked the all the things in the sump, but then assuming doesn't usually end well.

Thanks again. Will change the oil pressure sender. It does seem the most likely culprit.

So, that was fun. Of course the damn sensor is under the gas tank. I'm glad my local Piaggio shop sold me the adaptor. Not sure that I couldn't have just used the old one, but after all that effort to change out a 30 dollar part, I just put it in. We shall see if this solves my issue.

Now on to the next, a nail in my rear tire. Any tricks or torque settings I should be aware of when I pull my rear tire off?

Thanks Pete. Appreciate the advice.

Rear wheel bolts: 110Nm/82 ft-lbs

Thanks Beetle. Perfect. Since you are here, I heard you have an exceptional fuel map. I am intrigued but totally ignorant as to how to load a map to my ECU. I think I downloaded a tool for my computer some time back when I thought that I would teach myself how, but then got sidetracked. Feel like sharing your knowledge???

Thanks in advance no matter what. Oh, and I miss the shit outta your country. Lived in Melbourne for years. Can't wait to move back. Plus I miss the parking on sidewalks downtown. Super awesome concept.

Cheers.

Read my how-to here: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

For maps, click on the link in my signature.

Fantastic!! Thanks!

So, first ride today. Engine light still came on a few times at idle after she was good and hot, oddly not as often though. Guess she's going to have to see a real mechanic. Until then, am I doing damage while I still ride? Of course that's hard to answer isn't it. Damn