Clutch Issue 1100 GRiSO

Hi guys am after some advice from you knowledgeable fellows, the clutch on my 1100 has never come completely into the bar it stops about half an inch out, it seems not quite disengage, making neutral a bit of a pig to get. i have removed the lever and all seems ok with the actuator arm but its like the plunger isnt long enough if that makes sense, any ideas ?

Thanks Mike

I am not a knowledgable fellow but here goes anyway. How much travel in the lever before you feel resistance from the plunger. Excess travel at the lever can be reduced with rod that bears on the plunger. There is a tiny grub screw that locks it, undo the grub screw and wind the rod out a tad. Dont over do it or you will load up the clutch rod and its bearing. How long ago was the fluid changed. What state are the lever bushes in? How many miles on the bike?

12,000 miles, and about an inch before resistance, will try the adjustment thanks I noticed the grubscrew, not sure about the rest

Thanks for the response.

Grub screw usually needs heat to loosen the thread locker.

managed to wind the actuator out a bit but i still have very short lever travel and it seems that the clutch is not fully disengaging as I am still getting a loud clunk going into gear (louder than other Guzzis I have heard)

Any suggestions please ?

You may be suffering from 2 related problems - clutch lever travel and clutch disengagement.

re: Disengagement - have you tried bleeding the clutch line to rule out air not allowing the plate(s) to separate?

For what it's worth I usually get a clunk when shifting from neutral into first.

Check the bolts holding the slave cylinder in place haven't come loose.

Pete

Thanks for the responses thus far guys,

Pete sorry for the dumb cluck question but where would I find the slave ? I read in a post somewhere that it was a rear shock out job to get at it !

Ok. Any hydraulic system has a driver and driven piston set up. The way it operates is as a proportional force alterer. The driver is known as the Master cylinder and the driven one is referred to as the Slave.

With a system like brakes or clutches you have a master cylinder with a small bore but long stroke. At the other end, at the slave you have a slave with a large bore but short stroke.

When you pull the lever you will move the master cylinder piston a long way but exert little pressure on it. Conversely the slave piston will only move a short way but the pressure exerted will be much larger in proportion to the area difference of the two pistons.

With your clutch slave it is on the back of the gearbox. You can see the hoses going to it. While getting to the bolts that hold it in place is difficult if they are loose you will be able to see the slave moving when you pull the clutch lever.

I still reckon it's the plunger adjustment and a good bleed will sort it. Bleed hose is under the seat.

Pete

Thank Pete much appreciated
mike

Hi finally got round to bleeding the clutch ( been working away) and discovered while bleeding I have full lever travel and it appears the issue is at the slave end.

Currently I have about 2 inches of lever travel and a dragging clutch when disengaged fells like it isn't completely disengaged (if that makes sense)

I have month off in nov so am planning to whip the swinging arm off and grease the bearings and clean the whole area I will also check the bolts on the slave that they are tight

Are there any know issues with the clutch or slave that would be causing this ?

There was a run of bikes that were assembled with the wrong bolts holding the slave on. I thought they were early 8V's though? Can't honestly remember.

Pete

Early 8V had the wrong bolts (too long) holding the main seal flange and thus, causing an oil leak.
My 09 had that flaw and it was fixed under warranty.
None of that is clutch related though...

Thanks for the replys Guys, are there any exploded view diagrams on the web that will give me an idea of the layout of the slave / clutch etc or any manuals you would recommend I get before I delve deeper

Thanks Mike

I'm still skeptical as to it being a loose slave. They usually allow gear oil to leak out.

I'll grab a couple of diagrams from the parts site a bit later though to show you its location.

Pete

Thanks Pete

I have had a good look at the slave and cant see any movement when the lever is pulled in

So just to confirm? When you pull the lever it won't retract right to the bar but neither will the clutch fully engage? Is that right? And you've tried bleeding it to no avail?

Pete

Correct on all counts, lever comes in about half way and clutch seems not to fully disengage

The clutch doesn't fully free up causing a loud clonk engaging gear like it is dragging

OK. Try this as a scenario.

The plunger on the handlebar lever is adjusted much too far OUT. This would explain why the lever won't come back to the bar. It would also explain why it won't bleed up properly as the piston in the master will never return far enough to open the priming hole into the reservoir. When trying to bleed it all that has happened is some air has been introduced to the line so what travel there is is less effective.

Where I'd start is by winding the plunger out until you have full travel at the lever to the bar and a tiny amount of 'Free Travel' before you feel it start moving the master piston.

Now bleed the clutch thoroughly, preferably with a master-vac as pumping is ineffective due to the length and positioning of the hose. The problem is that each stroke of the master cylinder only moves a small amount of fluid. While you are shutting the bleed nipple and allowing the master to re-prime any bubbles will be floating back up the hose towards the master cylinder, it's hard to get it bled properly without a master-vac once there is air in the system. If the air is only in the exit line from the slave you may be OK but if it's got in the main line from master to slave you'll need a master-vac I'm guessing.

Pete

Great thanks Pete will try that next weekend

i really appreciate the advice

mike

Could you problem solving?
With me pushrod 2 / 10mm was too short !!!
Disassembly of clutch necessarily true.
Have reported here.
Is unfortunately only with registration
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Sorry Snake, could you explain a bit further what your problem is? Is your clutch not working? What are the symptoms?

If your bike is an 1100 there is only one length of clutch pushrod used, it's a completely different clutch design to the 1200 which has a choice of pushrod lengths.

As the clutch wears the pushrod should move backwards towards the rear of the bike. If it appears too short the most likely cause is that the friction material on one of the plates has come un-riveted and a chunk has slipped to und doubling up the thickness and pushing the pressure plate further forward. This means the piston in the slave cylinder can't get sufficient travel to separate the plates.

If this is your problem then I'm afraid it's a gearbox off job.

Pete

Clutch lever could not be pulled to the handlebar. With hot engine
was idle and circuit are hard pressed.
Circuit was labored and noisy.
After troubleshooting the true way of the hydraulic cylinder at the stop.
A spacer in addition to the thrust bearings solved the problem.
GRiSO switches now without noise.
While reading I had to think about my problem.

Greeting the snake

Well it shouldn't need a spacer but if you're happy with it that's good. Keep an eye and ear on it though and if the action of the clutch changes delve in deeper for safety's sake.

Pete