Which GRiSO?

One of my "local" dealers has two used Grisos. A 2010 with 18K on it for $7300 and a 2013 with 5K on it for $10.5K (and some left over warranty). Besides roller rockers and spokes, are there any other differences?

There's obviously no warranty on the 2010. How much would the roller rockers cost to install? Is it - or can it - be a DIY job?

I'm sure you will get better advice than mine as I'm still a bit of a newbie but I would say go for the 2013. Spend the extra cash and and you may avoid some headaches which may cost you more than the difference.

Hopefully Pete and others will chime in here for you shortly.

Whatever you do though, buy a GRiSO!

Also, I think the upgraded roller kit runs around $1200.00 US plus labor but I could be a bit off. My dealer told me about $1500.00 cdn so......Anyhow, my 2012 had the tappets fail at just about the 10,000k mark. It was under warranty, thankfully.

I have heard that Guzzi covers the cost of the parts for this particular issue in many instances but am not 100% sure if the 2010 would fall into this category. I would imagine it does. Additionally, the labor for any upgrade on the older bike will not be covered.... you will have to pay for that portion.

Happy 2015!

+1 for the 2013. Lower miles and you don't have to worry about the tappets and whether Piaggio will pay for it. And I think that black devil paint looks the business.

I would go for the 2013, I think it is the better deal and even though most of the cam issues were ironed out by 2010 I would like the idea of having the roller tappets, UNLESS the 2010 was Tenni Green (best colour) then I would have to think hard

You should be able to negotiate the price on the 2013.
I paid $11,200 for mine brand new...

Get the 2010 for $7k and spend the $3.5k enjoying it :-)

Don't forget to verify that the drive shaft splines got lubed during assembly.
Mine weren't. I got it done before there was a catastrophe.

DM

Whether the flat tappets will be reliable will, in my experience, very much depend on where and how you ride. In So-Cal the factors that contribute to failure are less of an issue but there is still the chance that they will fail.

The 'Upgrade Kit' to swap to rollers will cost, depending on which kit is required, $1200-1500. Installation cost is also dependent on whether the heads need to come off for the inlet valve springs to be shimmed. Whether you consider it a DIY job is entirely dependent on your experience and mechanical ability.

Pete

Thanks everyone. Are there any other differences between the bikes?

Not really. The 8V has remained unchanged in any real way since its launching 2008. The wheels, paint, different seat on the SE some early ones had 'Wave' rotors but apart from the change to roller tappets and a lighter clutch action the design has stayed the same. 2015 models have got a new one-piece sump design the same as the Cali 14 and there may be a few detail differences but nothing significant.

Pete

I just bought a 2013 early in December, paid $10,500, full 2 year warranty. My GRiSO had 20 miles when I took delivery.
There are some deals out there if you look around. Any place where the brand is not known or Harleys are the only bike that anyone wants is a good place to look.

Good luck and happy hunting!

DungeonMaster wrote:

Don't forget to verify that the drive shaft splines got lubed during assembly.
Mine weren't. I got it done before there was a catastrophe.

DM

This seems to be an on going issue... I would like to see a comprehensive thread about the common things to be aware of. BK

That said... I would go for the 2013.

bobbyfromnc wrote:

This seems to be an on going issue... I would like to see a comprehensive thread about the common things to be aware of.

Olof (from Sweden) did a good job in his welcome post summarising some very common pitfalls and "things to be aware of":

"
- Engine oil: Stick to 10W60 fully synthetic, e.g. Motul 7100, and keep level between the lines. Try 3 liters to begin with.
- Oil temp: the GRiSO is overcooled and struggles in winter to get above 80C. An RR dipstick thermometer and oil cooler cover is worth trying.
- Gearbox and diff oil: Redline Shockproof Heavy works really well, but needs changing every now and then (5-10000 km).
- Suspension settings: sag (37 mm front, 33 mm rear, reduce factory compression and damping and perhaps raise the fork legs to 5th or 6th line
- Mapping: early bikes were rough but newer behave better as long as they are set up properly (not always the case) and keep the stock airbox and exhaust. Not perfect, however. All run the MM 5AM ECU. Lots of good aftermarket maps for open air and exhausts.
- Technical issues: few, if any, after replacing flat tappets with rollers. Plastic fuel tank swelling seems not to be an issue as for Ducati and KTM (different material, anyone knows?). Make sure to grease the rear splines, swingarm and linkage bearings as they may come close to dry from Mandello.
- Owners: Seems to be a great bunch. What's more, people really seem to fall in love with their bikes, even when plagued by niggles.
"

See: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

But yes: perhaps we should have a Sticky with a list of "things to be aware of" before purchase and during ownership?

If you can afford it and not get in trouble with the better half, go for the later model. In any case, all bikes have issues, most are subjective, but all rectifiable. The good thing about the later model is that there are less non-subjective issues to worry about as they would have been ironed out. Hopefully.

Cheerio