GRiSO slave cylinder… rod seized. Mechanic says. SOS.

It’s all pretty much gibberish to me, but my consultants said to ask the grisoghetto first before making a decision: mechanic says that the transmission has to come out due to a rod being seized.

Here are my notes on the conversation we had.

Any insight would be extremely appreciated. I just want my GRiSO back.

NOTES:
Slave cylinder
Push rod through transmission. The middle rod won’t come out. Rod is siezed.
Got the slave cylinder out.
Should’ve have tapered bolts, but it had different bolts.
Can’t get clutch rod out.
Something is stuck. Rod, clutch, whatever.
Transmission has to come out.
Lot of crap in the slave cylinder.
Wrong bolts.
Wrong bolts in side plate.
Wrong bolts in heads.

If the rod is seized then it will be a gearbox out fix. That means dropping the engine. Here's what it looks like:


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Item 6 is probably what they're talking about.

What symptoms was it exhibiting that made you go in there?

I’m not somewhere I can type at the moment, working off phone. I’ll respond a bit further later but the wrong slave bolts were a factory favour on a few early bikes……

Pretty sure it was this: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Clutch not engaging thread.

I think your bloke may well be right.

Did the bike sit for any period of time unused? I'm just trying to think how whatever caused the corrosion or whatever is causing the pushrod to bind got in there? The pushrod isn't really a tight fit in the tunnel in the input shaft it passes through. It's supported and centred at the front by the thrust cup (#5) and at the back by the inner thrust body, (#8. )and the cone seals (#7). Being Louisiana I imagine it's pretty damp and humid but even so unless it's sat or ages I couldn't see all hell breaking loose and it *Rusting up.*!

I'm assuming he's managed to extract the outer thrust body and thrust bearing? If so it should be possible to pluck out the inner body with pliers and after that a magnet should be able to pull the pushrod rearwards. If it can't then it'll have to be smitten out from the front and that will require removing the box.

If the swingarm is off though he's half way there already. It's still a PITA though. If he needs hints at all get him to email me. I've done it a few times........

The amount that the clutch pushrod has to move is 3-4mm and at the other end... the sprung clutch plate.

So it is acceptable (good?) engineering practice to squirt proper penetrating lube (NOT WD40!!) at the rod-end.Then get a 3mm nail-punch and use it to smack the end of the pushrod with a 1Kg lump hammer until it moves.

Rationale: it is a straight steel rod (as Pete says ) a loose fit inside the input shaft.
As lubrication is by mist and splash. if left alone too long it could corrode to the inside of the input shaft. At the other end only a pressure plate which is sprung and designed to be pushed!

If it will not move under 'severe' provocation
drop the gearbox

No lubrication on the length of the pushrod Jon. That's what the cone seals are there to prevent. Oil from the gearbox migrating up the pushrod and into the clutch.

Pete Roper wrote:

No lubrication on the length of the pushrod Jon. That's what the cone seals are there to prevent. Oil from the gearbox migrating up the pushrod and into the clutch.

So would you not give it a 1Kg tap?

Not from the back. It might be OK if you have got the outer thrust cup and bearing our but belabouring the thrust bearing wouldn't be smart. Also if it is corroded in there simply freeing it up will not cure it, just kick the can down the road a bit.

You have not said that the bearing & puck on back is out of trans. I have seen the puck stuck in 5 sp but never the rod. Not even in rusty/crusty junk no one else would work on.
I would hit it w/a 5lb hammer, it's already fucked up.