Clutch engagement point

Hi everyone,

I went through several of the existing threads about clutches, but didn't got a clear answer for my questions.
My clutch engages with the lever almost completely released. It works fine though....Shifting OK, no slippage....Fluid has 15.000 km.
I didn't noticed any clear change on the engagement point....if it has changed it was gradually enough not be noticed.
It has 45.000 km though...Can this be a sign of wear?

Thanks in advance for your inputs

The problem with trying to answer questions like these is it's impossible to judge the engagement point from a description.

Really the only way for you to see if you can make things more to your liking is to play with the length of the actuator pin. I'm assuming you have experimented with the span adjuster?

Pete Roper wrote:

The problem with trying to answer questions like these is it's impossible to judge the engagement point from a description.

Really the only way for you to see if you can make things more to your liking is to play with the length of the actuator pin. I'm assuming you have experimented with the span adjuster?

Hi Pete,

I never fiddled with the clutch yet....
It's not that I dislike the engagement point as it is....But because it just engages when the lever is almost released I'm affraid it can be close to slipping.
Does this makes any sense?
With the cable clutches you have to leave a "safety gap" in the lever to be sure the clutch is completely closed. With this hydraulic clutch I don't know exactly how it works...

Essentially exactly the same. To avoid preloading the clutch thrust assembly the master cylinder piston must be able to fully return th the end of its travel. So when you begin to pull the lever there should be the tiniest amount of free play before you feel the lever pin beginning to press on the master cylinder piston. If that free play as absent then there is the possibility that the lever is holding the piston slightly depressed and that may be causing it to occlude the priming port in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir. If that happens it renders the hydraulic system 'Closed' so that as the system warms up from engine heat the fluid expansion in the system can only be compensated for by activating the slave cylinder piston and reducing the clamping force on the clutch friction plate. This can eventually cause slippage but also it means the clutch thrust bearing is running constantly under load which it is not designed to do.

The lever is of course span adjustable but this won't change the position of the actuator pin in the lever mechanism. That requires the grub screw that locks the pin in the barrel in the lever to be loosened and the pin be wound *Back* into the barrel a bit. Be aware though that the adjustment in length required will be very small to make a considerable difference.

Crystal clear Pete.
Thank you for all the writting

Hi,

I was just adjusting the pin to get that minimal free play.
While I was doing it I noticed something (before and after adjusting) that I never noticed before, and I don't know if it is normal...
With the engine turned off, 1st gear engaged and clutch fully open (clutch lever to the grip), when I push the bike back and forward I hear a knock from the gears, meaning there is a certain amount of drag in the clutch. Is this normal?

BR,
Matias

I found out also that the rubber below from the master cylinder (where the lever pin is introduced) is completely destroyed.
Do you know where to order one of those her in Europe? I took a look at the Stein-Dinse catalog but could find it there...

Guys, does any of you know the reference for this Brembo part (Dust Boot) and where to get it here in Europe? Or maybe a repair kit for the cylinder?
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Many thanks

As far as I know individual parts are not available from Brembo but you can buy a rebuild kit that includes most of the important pcomponents I believe. There was another thread on this subject not long ago.

Thanks Pete.
I will be looking for that thread, because even the repair kit is not being easy to find...
The Lisbon MG dealer says "we don't have it", and it seems Stein-Dinse doesn't have it too...

Is this what I need Pete?
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It seems some GRiSO's use 13mm cylinders...

I have an 07 Norge with 49,000 miles and wondered about the same thing.  I found out just changing out the clutch fluid made things a bit "Crisper" in shifting.  No problems shifting or finding neutral but like you I am use to having a bit of adjustment with a cable type clutch versus the hydraulic style.

As entitled manytimes before the V11's and CARC series bikes are murder on their clutch fluid. A yearly change is a must if damage to the seals and bore of the master cylinder is to be avoided.

Hi guys,

Sorry for insisting, but it is really being difficult to get that repair kit for the clutch master cylinder.
I know some of you have been here already...
What cylinder is this? 11,9mm? 13mm? I will be searching the net for something with tht size...For now I am only in need for the dust boot...never thought it would be necessary to go through all this fuss for that bit of rubber....

Hi guys,
I'm still stuck on this one...
Can someone tell me if the clutch master cylinder of a 1100 from 2007 is the same of a 1200 2010-2012?
Your inputs would be highly appreciated....

Yes, they all use the same master cylinder

Great, thanks.

Hi,

I ordered the clutch mater cylinder repair kit and am just waiting for it to arrive...
Meanwhile I removed the cylinder for service.
O was surprised there is no retainning ring blocking the piston from coming out of the cylinder...as I removed the lever and the torn dut boot the piston came out and oli started driping on the floor...weird...
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Shouldn't come out on it's own, that'd be a fail.

Yeah Steve, that is akward, right?...
But there was no circlip and in the pict below you can see there is no groove for it either...
So, after removing the lever, when I pulled out the dust boot with a small screw driver the piston came together.
Is this what you guys are used to see?...Or are your cylinders different?
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Thanks.

I've not had to replace one yet.