Obligatory "What do I need to know?" post

Okay then, looks like I've got another week and a half to go bat shit crazy waiting on my GRiSO so I may as well start asking the same questions you probably always get from noobs:

2012 with 3500 miles and hasn't been ridden in 6 months. Dealership is going to detail the bike, do a once over and get it inspected. Anything else I should be doing to

Since there's a few months left on warranty is there anything in particular I should be watching for and try to break before the warranty is up?

Any particular weak spots I should look for? Since I'm taking a loan to pay for part of this I may as well get what I need now. Shocks, brakes, handle bars, etc? Thinking about some levers since I like the way the Pazzos feel. How about heated grips?

Anyone figured out a back rest for the missus? I hate to do a top box just because I don't want the luggage rack on there. This is coming with a little Ventura set up that I'm kind of excited about.

Already considering painting it once it's all paid for so that gives me about a year to either fall in love with the silver/black or get something else.

Do I need a special stand to do the maintenance? I'll be doing all the fluid changes myself and hopefully the valve checks if I read up on it.

Yeah I'm getting a little overly excited here, I know, but if you care to take a stab at any of the above please do.

Much obliged,

Tim

First and most important thing I'd recommend, although living in So-Cal it will probably be slightly less critical, is grease the swingarm and suspension linkage bearings. While some are greased properly ex-factory the vast majority aren't. Going in early ensures they will lead a long and happy life. Leave it and especially the swingarm bearings are an absolute frontbottom of a job.

If you plan to do your own valves you will need to acquire Guzzidiag and a set of cables along with some vacuum gauges or a manometer of some sort so you can balance your TB's and re-set your TPS after a service.

Most here would also recommend you take advantage of Mark's generosity and try one of his maps which will greatly improve the behavior of the bike at no cost beyond a donation to him for development and one to Paul and Beard for their work in developing Guzzidiag. Note that Mark doesn't promise jaw dropping horsepower or torque increases although midrange is vastly improved. His work is all aimed towards greater rideability and enjoyment, not bragging rights at the local 'Biker Bar'. If you don't like it you can always go back to stock.

I would strongly advise AGAINST stuff like aftermarket air filters and modified airbox lids and the like. The stock air filter flows perfectly well enough to produce 150RWHP when used in an RSV-4, swapping it out will simply lead to poor filtration and upsetting the fueling.

Spending money on suspension is never wasted. See various threads here about suspension.

EBC FA244HH pads at the front are a very worthwhile improvement over the standard FF's.

Pete

Can you rate the difficulty of the greasing? What about the headstock? Special tools? Lift required, or...?

Urrrgh? Bit difficult to 'Rate' it as it is such a subjective issue. You do need to be able to lift the rear of the bike with something other than one of the service stands as removing the swingarm requires removal of the footrest hanger plates. The way I do it is tie the front of the bike down on the bench and then use a scissor lift with a piece of wood on it under the sump to lift the rear of the bike. Then you can start removing stuff.

Brake

Wheel

Disconnect speedo sensor and reaction rod.

Bevelbox

Disconnect gear linkage and remove plates.

Unbolt and remove shock linkage. (this can then be greased on the bench.)

Snip cable ties that retain bellows between swingarm and gearbox.

Loosen pinch bolts on swingarm pivot.

Undo castellated preload spacer. ('C' spanner or special tool required.)

Undo and remove swingarm spindle, (14mm Allen key socket required.)

Withdraw swingarm rearwards over driveshaft.

Pluck bearings from frame and grease.

Check seals are still on registers in frame.

Reassemble.

Pete

Pete Roper wrote:

Reassemble.

And if a mere Padawan can add to the Jedi Master's treatise:

Reassembly is the reverse of Disassembly, except you say 'Fuck' in different places ......


This is on my 'to do' list also.

Yeah, another thing is that on post about 2010 bikes they started glueing the bevelbox to the swingarm with silicone sealant to prevent seeping around the join if the front boot on the box is a bit weepy. This can make it a right sod to remove. I've found using a bottle jack between the shock linkage and the ABS sensor mount on the underside of the bevelbox to just unseat the sealant is the way to go. You then sometimes have to get in with a flat bladed screwdriver and pry the boot retainer off the swingarm. Its a prick of an idea but one presumes people were seeing a line of oil seepage and panicking so they decided to seal it all up.

Pete

OY FREAKIN VEY

Given what I have learned and am now experiencing, I would run the snot out of your GRiSO while it's under warranty to see if you can get the tappet / roller /cam issue to raise it's ugly head...... that is if it has the older flat tappets. You might want to try to find out what type it has first. On second thought, run the shit out of it anyway, you'll have a blast!

Also, check out the instrument cluster clear plastic cover. Many, including mine have had condensation issues. I have had mine replaced under warranty recently but have not had a chance to see if the problem still exists because I can't seem to get the bike back. I think it likes the service bay at my dealer better than it's own home here with me. Given you are located in Tx., this may not be an issue though. ??

Hope you enjoy it for a LONG time!

Good advice and thanks, I'll do everything I can to ride the snot out of my GRiSO! It does get cold in Texas and my warranty is good through December so I'll be sure and check out the condensation under the instrument plastic.

Gday Pete..

You mention replace the front brake pads with "EBC FA244HH"

These are on fleebay for $37 bucks plus $13 postage.

Are all EBC pads equal or are these some kind of generic or copy?

The reason I ask is, last time I paid $40 for a set of 4 brake pads I owned a Kingswood ?

Mike

( for our international readers a Kingswood was a locally designed long running General Motors car sold here and phased out in circa 1980 )

Rec retail from the official EBC importer is $59AU I believe because I ordered a few sets last week and couldn't remember so I asked 'em. They're all the same. I'll have a look at the invoice and see if I can match the price if you like.

Pete