8V needs to be warmed up?

Ken,
I removed the charcoal canister and the blue and orange valve that’s visible on the right side of the bike and all the hoses. It’s what’s referred to here as a “canisterectomy”. You can search that and see how it’s done if you like.What that did was keep my bike from making groaning noises after a ride- causing gas tank pressure. It didn’t do anything to help it warm up. If it’s a bigger issue than some of us have (which in my case is really minor) beetle, tony and Pete are surely the ones to help you.

Both my GRiSO and 1200 Sport do this, the 1200 Sport moreso than the GRiSO. 30 seconds of idling and the GRiSO can be blipped and ridden without issue, the 12S takes a few minutes and will die with any but the slightest throttle inlput. I haven't balanced the TB's on the 12S yet as it ran well. I checked everything except the air bleeds, and that makes sense 'DOH' After a couple minutes and when warm all is sublime. I'll get on that next. I don't need to set the valves as they only have 1K miles on the adjustment, so time to break out the manometer. May do it on the GRiSO too for S&G

JohnA wrote:

Ken,
I removed the charcoal canister and the blue and orange valve that’s visible on the right side of the bike and all the hoses. It’s what’s referred to here as a “canisterectomy”. You can search that and see how it’s done if you like.What that did was keep my bike from making groaning noises after a ride- causing gas tank pressure. It didn’t do anything to help it warm up. If it’s a bigger issue than some of us have (which in my case is really minor) beetle, tony and Pete are surely the ones to help you.

Thanks!

I performed the canisterectomy and tuned the bike but I still get a minute of rough riding at first. I'm just relieved to know this is common and I didn't get a lemon from PO.

beetle wrote:

That's the electronic one. We all have that. Some bike shave a mechanical valve as part of the fuel breather system.

Yes this is what I was referring to. I performed a canisterectomy and removed that blue and orange valve. I'm not sure it has had any effect. The weather here changed dramatically so it's hard to isolate which of the two factors is having an effect.

Ken,
I presume you read the canisterectomy thread and removed the big canister and not just the little valve?

JohnA wrote:

Ken,
I presume you read the canisterectomy thread and removed the big canister and not just the little valve?

Correct.

KenGriso wrote:

beetle wrote:

That's the electronic one. We all have that. Some bike shave a mechanical valve as part of the fuel breather system.

Yes this is what I was referring to. I performed a canisterectomy and removed that blue and orange valve. I'm not sure it has had any effect. The weather here changed dramatically so it's hard to isolate which of the two factors is having an effect.

The tuning and canisterectomy have had no effect on this issue. The bike needs to be thoroughly warmed up before it will run properly.

Something is not right. Properly tuned, with one of my maps, start & ride should be possible.

When you start it cold, does it idle correctly (smoothly), or is it rough & lumpy until it's warm?

Mine starts high about 1250 and drops down to 1150 and a steady tickover.
Leave for a few mins and ride.
Its annoying though as goes through that procedure every time, ride to fuel start does it, ride for miles stop start does it.
When I clutched it at lights tickover used to increase about 1krpm not so much since discovered airbox filter werent sealed properly  
Mates 1100 starts 1150 and if you rev it or pull away too soon it will stumble and thats early summer here.

The Tipover switch won't do anything but stop the motor altogether.
Its there to, wait for it
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Shut it off if it tips over
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How do I know this
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I tipped mine over twice

For the information pot
Mine starts and rides straightaway hot, cold or warm

Both Termi and 8 silencer with Guzzi and Mark's maps

No issue blipping the throttle after turning it on for me, granted I did let it finish starting for 1-2 seconds before I tried blip the throttle. Only mods on mine are a canisterectomy, arrow mid-pipe, Beetle Map, NGK CR3 spark plug boot/wire combo.

Mine ran like crap especially when cold until I found my 2-1 had a hairline crack and I was very precise about setting valve lash and syncing throttle bodies.

beetle wrote:

Something is not right. Properly tuned, with one of my maps, start & ride should be possible.

When you start it cold, does it idle correctly (smoothly), or is it rough & lumpy until it's warm?

Sorry for the delayed response. Yes just as you said when I start it cold the idle goes up to 2k and jumps around before dropping to a smooth idle.

TheMuffinMan wrote:

No issue blipping the throttle after turning it on for me, granted I did let it finish starting for 1-2 seconds before I tried blip the throttle. Only mods on mine are a canisterectomy, arrow mid-pipe, Beetle Map, NGK CR3 spark plug boot/wire combo.

Mine ran like crap especially when cold until I found my 2-1 had a hairline crack and I was very precise about setting valve lash and syncing throttle bodies.

Where was the crack?

This can also be symptomatic of worn throttlebodies. The cold start map makes it very hard for the stepper to govern the idle in the first period, (1200 revolutions?) after start up and you can get a high idle. My original GRiSO tends to do it but it's TB's are marginal now.

Have you checked that both the airbox drains are connected, plugged and unbroken? Also make sure the air filter is sealing properly. You don't have a K &N fitted do you? That'll kill the TB's real quick.

Pete Roper wrote:

This can also be symptomatic of worn throttlebodies. The cold start map makes it very hard for the stepper to govern the idle in the first period, (1200 revolutions?) after start up and you can get a high idle. My original GRiSO tends to do it but it's TB's are marginal now.

Have you checked that both the airbox drains are connected, plugged and unbroken? Also make sure the air filter is sealing properly. You don't have a K &N fitted do you? That'll kill the TB's real quick.

Thank you for these ideas, Pete. The bike only has 7k miles on it so I'd be surprised if the TBs are worn. It's a stock air filter no K&N. I'll check the drains, though. I'll have to search to see where they are though as I'm fairly new to this bike.

Update: I noticed the idle being erratic and not coming down enough at stop lights so I plugged the stepper motor and that solved it. The bike starts up perfectly now.

Question: do I need to rebalance the throttle bodies and/or set the TPS?

Thanks!

JohnA wrote:

Ken,
I removed the charcoal canister and the blue and orange valve that’s visible on the right side of the bike and all the hoses. It’s what’s referred to here as a “canisterectomy”. You can search that and see how it’s done if you like.What that did was keep my bike from making groaning noises after a ride- causing gas tank pressure. It didn’t do anything to help it warm up. If it’s a bigger issue than some of us have (which in my case is really minor) beetle, tony and Pete are surely the ones to help you.

When you removed the blue and orange valve, what if anything did you do to the hose you removed it from? If you didn't plug the hose then fuel could leak from that hose. It's a check valve allowing air in one direction but nothing in the opposite direction.

I just removed the valve and reconnected it to itself with a metal connector that fit in the line.