Subject: Universal Joint and Rear Suspension Linkages Sun Mar 27, 2022 9:48 pm
Ok, maybe it was my ignorance, I should have read more, maybe I should have taken these parts apart before. The boot for the swingarm is hidden behind the Right Foot plate. Never noticed the crack, water had to have got in, and caused the UJ to freeze up a bit. Removing all that to get sorted, The suspension linkages had to come off, they were in no better shape.
The lesson to to learnt. Have a look. Grease em up, replace if needed. Check the boot, no way ya want any moisture getting in there.
Here's a wee video of where I'm up to. Received the Boot in the post today, so have to get the bike back together before this weekend for a ride n camp out.
lcjohnny likes this post
Buellbloke Nibbio
Posts : 713 Join date : 2021-07-30 Age : 61
Subject: Re: Universal Joint and Rear Suspension Linkages Mon Mar 28, 2022 4:54 am
A UJ is a UJ some are more expensive than others, some have nipples that cannot be acesssed on the guzzi arm. Mine is a steering UJ primarily thought of as such because of its size, who is to say the original is not the same. Personally I think this front UJ is a more common failure than realised. MY bike has only 13thousand miles and one axis was failing. My boot was perfect and not leaking. My swing arm pivot block bearings were in very good condition albeit there were drying out but yet to fully dry. I did have a seized bolt head in the swing arm. As for servicing/replacement of said UJ any reptuable engineering company worth their salt can fix one/swap one out. Mine had to be shimmed 3 thou on every axis, the original guzzi one was shimed 3 thou on one axis which would put the bearing out of alignment by 3 thou.
How much did it cost you to repair the swing arm pivot block, as its much cheaper to buy the thing complete. The fact I bought a brand new one for £50 then sold my fully serviced old one for £45 is neither here no there. Even that one had to be regreased as what was inside was stiff and lacking.
Ummm? I'm a bit concerned about the top hat bush on the linkage bolt that goes through the swingarm.
Is it installed with the 'Brim' of the hat outside the boss of the arm or inside, between the arm and the linkage? It should be the latter.
GhostBullet Biondino
Posts : 278 Join date : 2015-06-02
Subject: Re: Universal Joint and Rear Suspension Linkages Thu Apr 07, 2022 2:13 am
Pete Roper wrote:
Ummm? I'm a bit concerned about the top hat bush on the linkage bolt that goes through the swingarm.
Is it installed with the 'Brim' of the hat outside the boss of the arm or inside, between the arm and the linkage? It should be the latter.
I'll take a look when the sun comes back up, I recall putting it back in and being unsure of direction, and tried a both ways. Could not find a diagram to confirm direction.
Buellbloke Nibbio
Posts : 713 Join date : 2021-07-30 Age : 61
Subject: Re: Universal Joint and Rear Suspension Linkages Thu Apr 07, 2022 6:51 am
It fits like this, if thats what you are refferring too. Thats my old one hacked up to get the linkage out. It stands to reason its a spacer not some super thick washer to fit to the outside [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
Took me maybe 10mins to fit the swinging arm shaft, the correct crown nut tool is all over ebay for £12. Mind I just regreased the old bearings which prob allowed more wriggle room and you replaced yours which prob tightened up the tolerances. Did you check for a smooth up/down action on the arm or just wang the crown nut up tight? Hope you used plenty of anti seize. No mention of the two pinch bolts, did you torque them up or hand tight and or use thread lock.
Why did you remove the airbox?
lcjohnny GRiSO Capo
Posts : 1470 Join date : 2016-01-25 Age : 69
Subject: Re: Universal Joint and Rear Suspension Linkages Thu Apr 07, 2022 9:04 am
@Ghostbullet First time i refitted my swing arm took me about 45 min from start to ready for CARC just like you i found it irritatingly hard to get the swing arm pivot located properly.
It gets easier with practice and if the bike is totally level - last time i did it in maybe 10min? I like your approach to the castle nut - i use a hook spanner and a spring balance it is not a high torque figure.
My old bearings were well shot. Removing the air box, just to give more room and sight. I'm sure the top hat is the right way round. Little room there for it to go any other way? [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]