Rubber bellows and valve cover question

Hi All,

Having one of those times where I seem to be resolving more issues on the bike rather than riding, some of which are my fault, granted. Also want to start modify the bike with some sensible mods i.e. map, suspension setting etc to get the most out of the bike, and want to get over these little niggles before I do.  

1. Rubber Bellow split
I had the RHS footrest plate off at the weekend attending to some mild corrosion with Kurerust and noticed that the rubber bellow between the gearbox and swingarm has split, see below. Seems like any easy enough job to complete. In order to carry out the replacement, and looking at the parts lists, its looks like the only parts I need are the Rubber Bellow and 2 hose clamps? While I have the back end of the bike in the air, which is one of the biggest problems with this bike, are there any other jobs I should carry out. Im thinking swingarm bearings and shock linkage? This is a fairly big job, and need to find some time to do it, in the meantime I am going to wrap some self-amalgamating tape around to seal it so I can actually still ride.

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2. Valve Cover
As per a previous post you may have read, I had a small off back in October, part of the damage was a scuffed valve cover on the RHS. Went to install said new valve cover over the weekend and it turns out there is a subtle difference between the old and new one. See below. The difference on the old one, there is a tube, which in lay terms I assume is to seal off the spark plug tube. I removed the tube from the old one and found it doesn't fit (I hadn't noticed the difference at this point). I came across a post on an Aprilla forum where our contributor on this forum Pete Roper replied mentioning this issue (https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?363370-There-s-a-damn-good-motorcycle-hiding-in-there/page2 ). My question is, is the new valve cover I have simply not going to fit my engine or is there a tube and gaskets that I need to get for the new cover to fit? Also, when I removed the old cover the sealing gasket remained in situ, and seems to be lightly stuck, I assume with oil. I didnt want to disturb the gasket too much and simply re-installed the old cover back on. However, on reflection, should I have removed the gasket and placed inside the channel within the cover?

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Well, the experts will have to answer your question about the tube with the valve cover but I can tell you that the valve cover gaskets are reusable and you can leave it where it is or put it inside the channel on the valve cover. Also, on your split bellows, I’m certain that is just a dust cover so sealing it with silicone or tape will be fine for a temporary fix. Everyone here will agree that all of the things you mentioned like swing arm bearings should be tended to.

Sorry but you've got the wrong rocker cover. You need the earlier type. No, the two are not interchangeable. Also take great care removing the plug tube from the damaged cover as these are now NLA and if damaged they will leak. Being an earlier engine one also has to ask if the motor has been rollerised?

On the boot replacement? Yes, you need to pull the swingarm and when you do it is pretty much inevitable that the swingarm bearings and shock linkage will need replacement, especially if the bike has been ridden in the wet in cold, damp, blighty. When pulling the swingarm just do it methodically and do not be tempted to try and 'Save time' by leaving the bevelbox attached to the swingarm. All that does is make it harder to remove when you come to reassemble the back end as it is impossible to do so with the bevelbox still bolted to the swingarm.

Thanks Pete, the news I was expecting. These bikes, getting bits was always tough and expensive, only going to get worse now that older part are becoming NLA. The tube seemed fine, it came out pretty easily. My engine is definitely rollerised, there is a thread on here somewhere where I posted a pic, but cant seen to find it.

I really don't get the 'Getting bits was always tough and expensive' thing? Certainly now with age and the model having been out of production for five years some stuff is getting harder to find and Covid and supply chain issues have made things worse but most everyday stuff is easy enough to get.

With your rocker cover how bad is the damage? They are really pretty easy to dress up and repair so unless it's holed or leaking why not just rub it back, fill any gouges and respray it?

Just having one of those days with it, they are not that bad, I must say, everything seems expensive on it though, I guess thats going to be the case with Italian rare bikes!

Re the rocker cover, yes I will get it refurbed. Maybe time for some black rocker covers??? But to keep standard, is there a specific silver paint or paint code?

Michael uses a standard VHT product that is pretty close to the original finish. Available at most 'Wottalottacrap Auto' type places. Try Halfords.

Thank you Pete

Not just Italian parts that are expensive. I just spent 120.00 us for valve cover gaskets for an old Kawasaki Ninja.

I've just noted the same thing on mine. 177k swingarm boot cracked, drive shaft uv joint buggered, swingarm bearings buggered, and to top it off suspension linkage bearings buggered. All dry as hell. Take a good look for sure. A mate was fortunate to do his earlier add grease and his was all OK.

Yer boot is on its way. I'll send you a tracking number tomorrow when I wake up etc.

So seems like the boot splitting is just another wear and tear item. I turn my attention to the shopping list for the back-end maintenance. I have listed the items I think i'll need, but is there anything else I should order and have in the garage so that I dont came across any further issues

Grease, and more grease
swingarm bearing x 2
new rubber boot
hose clamps x 2
some more grease

While its all off, should I inspect the carc bearing also?

You'll need new seals for the swingarm bearings that go in the frame. The boot is secured simply by cable ties. No need for clamps of any sort.

As long as the front, (Pinion.) seal isn't leaking on the reactive bridge of the bevelbox it's probably fine but we recommend that if you have the box off it's worth poking at the pinion nut to make sure it isn't loose with a thin screwdriver and if it's secure dribble a couple of drops down onto the pinion nut of Loctite 'Super wick-in' (269?) to encourage it to not come undone.

Marine type 'Waterproof' grease is the way to go. Pack the bearings themselves thoroughly and slather lots in the bearing cavity after glueing in the seals with Stag or similar. Make sure as well that the new outer races are driven solidly into their registers in the frame so they don't settle and allow the bearings to loose their preload.

I also cut a piece of foam plastic pipe insulation to go over the exposed part of the swing arm pin between the frame members - just to discourage salty roadwater from puddling up against the seals.

When you drive the old bearings out, feel for the 2 scalllops at 180 degrees in the collar the outer races sit against these allow thin cold chisel coming from the middle to register against the top and then the bottom of the outer race letting you tonk it out

McCarthy1983 wrote:

Just having one of those days with it, they are not that bad, I must say, everything seems expensive on it though, I guess thats going to be the case with Italian rare bikes!

Re the rocker cover, yes I will get it refurbed. Maybe time for some black rocker covers??? But to keep standard, is there a specific silver paint or paint code?

My rockers were black with carbon trims, I removed the trims and tried a couple of matt/satin silver engine enamels.
I eventually settled with this stuff, it's caliper paint so high temp and pretty close to the temps of the engine enamels.
It's a gloss and as close as it gets to the original as not too glossy.

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Amazon sell it here [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Having done the back end on my GRiSO my only recommends on top of Mr Ropers are remove the cardan shaft and check the UJs are smooth on both axis.
Most engineering shops will swap them out as long as you supply the UJ. (About £90 all in) Otherwise a used in good condition shaft from gutsibits will set you back £180.

The GRiSO is a plethora of different blacks, chrome and colours, silvers dont have to match as long as both rocker covers are the same, even then its up to you!

Seen this the other day which is a silver and black reversal, still can't decide if I like it, and the bike is done in that awful green colour
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