Startus Interuptus

BrianD wrote:

If the problem is not fixed then (looks like it is though)

May be worth checking the plug connector between the loom and the ignition switch as one of the connectors may have burnt out.

Using jewellers screwdrivers helps to remove the connectors from the plugs, if you haven't the proper tools

First cold start of the day is exactly like it always was, possibly one less revolution, once bike has been warmed even then allowed to cool significantly it start pretty much 1st time.

I'm not sure where we are at now.
I suggest you prove out the starters ability to spin the motor without worrying about the bikes wiring loom.
Take 3 feet of wire and crimp a spade connector on one end, make sure this is a nice tight fit on the solenoids spade connector It will be passing ~60 Amps for a split second, a loosely fitting spade connector won't do that. Make sure the bike is in neutral or the rear wheel is off the ground.
Touch the other end of the wire to battery positive without the key turned on, does it spin over?
The test should crank the bike the best it will ever crank and thats also how it should crank when you press start.
Take it one step further and measure the battery Voltage while it's cranking or trying to, it should be able to maintain over 9 Volts.
Report back

Kiwi_Roy wrote:

Touch the other end of the wire to battery positive without the key turned on, does it spin over?
The test should crank the bike the best it will ever crank and thats also how it should crank when you press start.
Take it one step further and measure the battery Voltage while it's cranking or trying to, it should be able to maintain over 9 Volts.
Report back

Ok I have to admit to something saw a guy in the USA start a GRiSO before I aquired one by prodding the start button and stepping back and letting the bike crank and start.
I tried it on mine and it worked, its sort of a bike gathering party trick.
After I fitted the MPH kit from cold the bike started identical, prod crank twice and start.
The following day went for a ride and there after it was prod and start within the first crank.
From cold though it reverts back to starting on the 2nd crank.
I bought some new battery screws that came with terminals, so swapped out the terminals and the screws and cleaned up the cable contacts.
Now the f*cker wont prod start except from cold, once warmed if try the prod it kicks back, I have to start it like a normal bloke and hold the button  
Now it starts like in the video.

Course it spins over with a direct to battery 27amp cable.
As for the startup voltage was 9 volts the other day, though battery was not long off the Optimate. Today after a short ride its down to 8.8volts or 10.2 volts depends how sharp your eyes or how quick you hit the pause botton. Sorry about the condensation, seems worse since the dash was dry stored at home  

Kiwi_Roy wrote:

I'm not sure where we are at now.
I suggest you prove out the starters ability to spin the motor without worrying about the bikes wiring loom.
Take 3 feet of wire and crimp a spade connector on one end, make sure this is a nice tight fit on the solenoids spade connector It will be passing ~60 Amps for a split second, a loosely fitting spade connector won't do that. Make sure the bike is in neutral or the rear wheel is off the ground.
Touch the other end of the wire to battery positive without the key turned on, does it spin over?
The test should crank the bike the best it will ever crank and thats also how it should crank when you press start.
Take it one step further and measure the battery Voltage while it's cranking or trying to, it should be able to maintain over 9 Volts.
Report back

Basically I just need the 27amp fused wire running from the other side of the starter relay to the solenoid, the output wire? with my MPH kit still in place.
Which colour is that one
Do I need another inline fuse on the relay to solenoid wire?

Kiwi_Roy wrote:

I dont think you need to do anything for the maintenance relay, its powered up from the red fused wire via the sockets.
For sure i would beef up the wire going to the solenoid, you should be able to splice it on between the Male and Female sockets, I have never actually laid my grubby paws on an MPH kit lol
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It's the weak yellow wire that the kit replaces. I actually suggested to Mike that they include the wire to the solenoid in with their kit but he feels it's not necessary. I do know on my 1100 Grisoo it dropped the engagement time from 50 to 15 milliseconds. The 1100 GRiSO doesn't need an MPH kit like the 8 valve 1200, its relay is powered direct from a fuse, it doesn't even have a second relay.

I've already had the MPH kit fail on me.