Maintenance Schedule, Required Fluids, Torquing etc.

GRiSO 1200 8V - Technical Specifications datasheet

GRiSO 1200 8V - Maintenance Schedule

GRiSO 1200 8V - Recommended Fluids

GRiSO 1200 8V - Fastener Torque Table

If any of these links don't redirect to the correct document, please alert me by PM for correction.

Be great to have a maintenance schedule that reflects what the pros do on their own bikes.
Some of this stuff looks like overkill (spark plugs, fork seals etc)

Any thoughts on using a zinc/phosphorus additive to flat tappet GRiSO oil. I use only Eni 10-60 oil?

Any thoughts on using a zinc/phosphorus additive to flat tappet GRiSO oil. I use only Eni 10-60 oil?

It will achieve nothing. The issue is one caused by the tappet loosing contact with the opening flank of the cam at certain engine speeds and hammering on the nose circle of the cam shattering the DLC. No additive will save flat tappets. The only fix is rollerisation. ALL flat tappet top ends will fail. No exceptions.

Pete

Thanks Pete for the explanation. I will brace myself for the inevitable. So far 25,000 mi. and not so much as metallic dust on drain plug magnet

Any thoughts on using a zinc/phosphorus additive to flat tappet GRiSO oil. I use only Eni 10-60 oil?

Any thoughts on using a zinc/phosphorus additive to flat tappet GRiSO oil. I use only Eni 10-60 oil?

luxel wrote:

Thanks Pete for the explanation. I will brace myself for the inevitable. So far 25,000 mi. and not so much as metallic dust on drain plug magnet

You won't see anything anywhere until things have gone way, way too far. DLC is not magnetic, the steel parent metal will come off in tiny particles right up until the very end, (By which time it will sound unbelievably sick but will still run.) but most of that steel will be caught by the filter. That that isn't will embed in bearings and cause problems down the line.

The magnet itself, both there and in the gearboxes, is not there to protect the engine. What are the chances of an errant piece of ferrous shit passing close enough to be caught? Very small. All it is there for is a tell tale which might hopefully tell you something is awry, it may also tell you nothing at all.

Pull a cambox. All will be revealed.

Pete

Thanks again Pete. Great explanation on what is happening in there. Bike is just coming out of winter storage and I'll pull the covers off and try and determine what kit I need to order.

As a 2010 it will either need a 'B' kit or a 'C' kit. The way to tell is to look for the tell tale drill mark in the paint on the face of the head closest to the centreline of the bike. In another recent thread where someone with the same year model was asking the same question he posted up a good pic showing the paint mark. If there is a drill mark you need a 'B' kit. No drill mark? 'C' kit.

As stated in that thread if you need a 'B' kit I would strongly suggest ordering from Europe, (I use Teo Lamers in Holland.) as in the US all the kits are priced the same. In Europe and elsewhere the kits vary in price and the 'B' kit is the cheapest of the lot by several hundred dollars!

Pete

Do you have any idea of the shipping cost from Europe and custom duty? It may add a significant cost on TLM kits an then less saving?

But you're in France?

Yes   

The question was for those who are interested to buy from TLM and import the goods overseas. They are extra costs that may need to be taken into account. 

That would depend on their country. As far as I know the US doesn't have such imposts. Over here if your order is over $1,000 you run into a world of pain with import duty and GST. Play your cards right and you can make substantial savings. For instance if people order something like a rollerisations kit through me my extra trade discount may mean that although they pay the 'List Price' for the part it will sneak in under the threshold which means they save and I also make a bit.

Pete

I have a 2017 GRiSO and I was looking at the tech specs. datasheet and maintenance schedule for servicing my bike. The specs appear to be for early models. Are the specs the same for a 2017.
Rich

Yup, pretty much. There weren't any major changes to the machine over its lifespan that affect its servicing requirements. Oil filter is different on post 2015 models. That's about it.

Oh, and there is no mention in the maintenance chart of greasing the swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings. Its well worth, indeed I'd say vital, to tackle that early.

Thanks on the advice on maintenance of my 2017 GRiSO, you mentioned greasing the swing arm and
shock linkage, do you have to dismantle the linkage and swing arm to grease them? As you can I am
not a gear head but I want to learn to do the maintenance myself. I can't afford $130/hr at my local
dealer. Also, is there a go to web site to buy parts like a valve cover gaskets and ect.

For parts? A lot of people, (Myself included for Aprilia parts.) shop at AF1 in Texas. For everyday 'Service' parts and consumables MG Cycle in Wisconsin are good but I think their main focus is older models, the same can be said of Harpers. There are several other 'Dealers' whose reputations are very good. Hamlin's springs to mind but other US citizens will have a better idea of the lie of the land.

As for the swingarm and suspension linkage service? You do need to be able to support the bike so the back end can be removed. This can be done either by supporting it under the sump and tying it down at the front or hanging it from the rafters, (Seriously.). While disassembly and reassembly is not the hardest task in the world certain aspects might prove challenging for a novice so I would advise trying to find a more adept friend you can bribe with beer to come around and give you a hand. Also if the swingarm bearings do need replacement getting the old races out of the frame can be a right frontbottom of a job so consider carefully.

The swingarm and suspension linkage service is though one of those things I would suggest go on the 'Vital' list as the absence of grease ex-factory means that they will degrade quickly unless re-packed properly.

There's a pretty good thread here regarding swingarm service:

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Spark plugs: The maintenance book for my 2017 says change plugs every 6k with long lasting NGK plugs. I wouldn't change normal plugs after 6k. I thought "long lasting" would go a tad longer than
what the manual requires. Any thoughts

The recommendation I recorded is NGK CR8EIX Platinum plugs with NGK SB05F spark plug caps.

How long you leave it before replacement is up to you.

CR8EKB, last for ages but if you want to be anal Chuck 'em every 20,000 km. The set I had in the Green Horror before they were just changed had been in there since I swapped engines at 85,000km. It's done 135,000 now. T'was still running fine but I reckon it was time.

Most modern cars have 80-100,000 km plug change intervals. Gernerally speaking our motors spin faster so the number of cycles per distance travelled is higher but most modern plugs are robust and, at least in Oz, our fuel is pretty good so chucking plugs very frequently is unnecessary.

Thanks lads,
I guess I will check the plugs at 10k and see how the gap looks. (sorry I didn't convert to kms for you lads down under).

Multiply by 8 and divide by 5. Most of us can cope with that. actually on long rides or drives I quite often entertain myself by converting distances from road signs to miles. In the US and UK I do it the other way. I am a bear of very little brain though and am easily amused........