Startus Interruptus Question 2007 1100 Fix

My 2007 GRiSO has started the classic SI symptoms.
So I got lazy and ordered the MPH plug and play and it didn’t work.
No surprise as a 07 is wired different than a 08.
My question is what wire gets cut and goes direct to the battery with a fuse?
I know on later bikes it’s the yellow one (On the Breva)
Pictured is the start relay.
I also took note that Kiwi Roy ran a larger wire direct to the solenoid if that would help?

Have you done a search on this forum for "Startus Interruptus"?

There's a wealth of information already published.

Yes, I have done extensive reading of SI on this site and others and have not yet ran across a post mentioning
which wire (color or function) on a 07 GRiSO starter relay should be ran direct to the battery positive.
That’s why I am here.

I have a wiring diagram for a 2006 GRiSO 1100, it is one that was "colorized" by Carl Allison.  If you send me a message with your email address I can send it to you.  I cannot find the yellow wire you are talking about.

However, there is a yellow wire on a 2005 Breva 1100 which I used to own two of.  It is fed from fuse B.  My fading memory suggests that this wire should be cut from fuse B, and fed via a 30A in-line fuse directly from the battery positive.  This removes the heavier current going through the ignition switch.  The fuse is increased to help avoid blowing it if the response to turn the starter motor is too long.

I can send you the Breva 1100 wiring version as well.

Probably the best person to contact would be Kiwi Roy who until recently owned one of these models and is a whiz on Guzzi sparks.

Solved Update: Upon further troubleshooting the new MPH harness blew its 15A fuse immediately.
Many other users of the MPH harness has reported this. Most have gone up to a 20A fuse like I have just done
and it’s working normally now. Some have gone to a 25A fuse as they say the 20A fuse will sometimes blow.
Note for the 07 1100 GRiSO, The Green Wire with the Red stripe is the wire that goes direct from the start relay
to the battery with a inline fuse if you don’t want to go with the MPH plug and play.
More info here:
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I dont pretend to know all the wiring variations but here is an earlier one,
Notice how terminal 3 of the start relay is always alive fed from fuse C
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Anyway if you remove the relay and probe the socket terminal 3 you will find it alive.
I have never looked to see what size wire is feeding terminal 3 but I doubt its any significant size.
I do know that on my 2007 the wire from terminal 5 back to the starter solenoid was really wimpy, I replaced that with an 18 AWG and the solenoid operated 3 x as fast.
Next look at this 2008 diagram, the Start relay is now fed from a yellow wire that in turn is fed from Fuse 2 which is only alive when the key is ON
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Also now you have a second Start relay. The additional wiring up through the ignition switch and back through another fuse then to the relay makes the circuit weak (not able to deliver much current) hence I call it the weak yellow wire.
So the key to finding out how your bike is wired is to unplug the start relay and find out if terminal 3 is alive with the key OFF.
The factory seem to be oblivious of the fact that the starter solenoid will draw 50 Amps or more for a split second if its wired right, it needs that huge rush of current to move from rest and engage the gear, once its engaged the current drops right back to around 10 Amps.
There are two coils inside the solenoid (Guzzi only show 1)
The Grunt coil that draws 40 Amps and does most of the hard work.
The Holding coil that only has to hold the solenoid in place while cranking and draws around 10 Amps.
The combination of these two coils probably starts off at around 30 Amps and goes downhill from there as the bike ages.
With a direct feed to the relay it will draw more like the 50 Amps the starter was designed for.
If you already have a direct feed to the relay e.g. pre 2007 don't waste your money on a kit just upgrade the wires to and fro.
For the bikes with wiring through the ignition switch re-wire the feed direct with a 20 Amp fuse and upgrade the wire from relay to solenoid.
I really don't know why they added a second start relay but it does bypass all the ECU interlocks, I suspect they might have found the starter was dropping out due to low Voltage while cranking, i'm sure a direct feed would have solved that, the 2007 only had 1 relay.
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If you have a meter and you are curious measure the resistance from the solenoid Spade terminal to chassis then calculate by Ohm's law how much current it will draw at 12 Volts