The definitive guide to Rollerisation

There is no remedy except fitting the correct parts I'm concluding after more reading. Just to add the Left hand side part which is correct is marked on the box 1A002064.

The incorrect RH part is marked 1A002067.

I didnt hear any cracking when I torqued the head down, maybe it waited till I'd fukd off, this is the A8 designated engine. I looked @ the chamfering on the LH weir casing , but not the RH one. I was to busy beavering away.

When I pulled them out the box initially it was just to check I had a LH & RH side.

Fuggin mumble grumble bollox!!

How do they manage to do that? I've had it as well. And two camboxes the same side in a kit!

I'm convinced Piaggio run their spare parts centre as some sort of sheltered workshop for mental defectives!

No, you'll have to return the kit. Probably all of it which means taking the other cambox off as well.

You'll not be surprised to learn your right. On a plus side I stripped it back down pretty fkn sharply. Nearly dropped an m5 in to the engine when removing the cam pulley(eek!) Gutsibits gave me £100 back which was nice of them.

Onewhocansee wrote:

OK RH side done & when I went to put the long tube in guess what? It doesn't fukin fit!! Those useless cnuts supplied the wrong one & this useless cnut never noticed before fitting it. It was all going to well. Is there a remedy?

Had the same issue but my LH side was the later tyoe and my long tube didn't fit.

Hello from up north

As many others, I received 2 different camshaft kit parts. One LEFT type-A and one RIGHT type-B.
I had ordered a B-kit since I needed a C-kit for my 2010 GRiSO.
B-kit + parts are cheaper than a C-kit.

The solution by me was to maschine the type-A part to be a type B-part.

This can be done by reducing the height around the spark plug hole with XXmm, and increase the diameter to be a little bigger than the steel tube.

A good friend of mine has access to a mill - so this could be preformed without trouble.

I have no access to a type B head right now, so we need Pete to tell us how much the height should be reduced.

I hope this can be of help for someone unlucky like me.

Rolf

Excuse my not replying sooner Rolf, I'm actually sick as a dog at the moment so consider what I say carefully in light of the fact I may not be thinking straight.

Basically though the amount you need to take off could be anything from 'Nothing' to 'Some'. To be honest it's not something that demands accuracy as the actual sealing is done by the inserted steel tube and it's two o-rings rather than the cambox casting and a gasket as is done with the later system.

When the part is cast it's obviously cast deep enough so it can be machined to the tighter tolerance required for the neoprene gasket used on the 'Floating' cover system. When being fitted to an earlier bike it just needs machining down so that it won't foul on the rocker cover but no real finesse is needed so I assume they just stick a depth into the CAD programmer deeper than for when they're doing 'Floating' fitment assemblies. It may be it doesn't need shortening at all, if it does just get a rough height from the old cambox assembly you've taken off.

Of more concern would be to ensure that the bottom of the weir the cams run in is machined down a bit as shown in the pictures in the guide as if it isn't, in some cases, it will press on the head causing the weir to crack!

Yes Pete - you are not that ill, I pressume.

I had forgotten that I also milled away about 1mm of the thickness at the bottom, where the camshaft is hold in position.

This is described well in Petes earlier documents - with pictures.


I milled away about 10mm height to be equal with the type B cambox. When you compare cambox type A and B - this can be seen quite good.

Normally we start the driving season 1. May. But this year is different. Snow is comming right now, so we will have to wait.

In Australia I think the winter season is on your doorstep.

Rolf

While we have winter on our doorstep Rolf, it does not prevent us from riding.

We've just had a weekend of driving rain Rolf and when that happens it takes all the last of the summer/autumn warmth out of the soil and we know that it's going to be cold, although not necessarily miserable, until September.

We very rarely get snow here, a couple of light dustings every year at most and it never lies for more than a few hours and our winters are usually dry and sunny most of the time. It does get cold though. Because we're at the top of the Great Dividing Range as soon as the sun goes down the temperature plummets and at dawn it regularly gets down to -6*C or lower, (Although having said that such frosts are a lot rarer than even ten years ago!). Good thing is as soon as the sun comes up the temperature rises quickly. By 10.00AM it will be above freezing and by mid afternoon it can be in the mid teens! It's a dry cold too so no ice and therefore no salt on the roads. One of the reasons I'm sure that we have a lot less seized brakes, electrical problems and rusty bikes than those in countries where it gets cold and wet in winter and people keep riding.

Hi Peter great article I have a 2008 GRiSO 1200 8 v with the mentioned problem I see that you can source the C kit in Europe as from what I’ve read that’s what I need I’m based in Ireland can you still source those kits ?

Replying to you via PM.

Ok so while i'm waiting for my parts & slowly grinding down my teeth while I see lots of bikers enjoying the fine weather, good luck to them but it's killing me.

Just wondering the need for the new map after fitting the roller kit, are the 1400 cams slightly different profile? Couldnt find a reason in all the stuff I've browsed.

Carried out the sump gasket fix in the meantime, original was fine but at least now I know, already had the dodgy pressure sender last year.

Onewhocansee wrote:

Ok so while i'm waiting for my parts & slowly grinding down my teeth while I see lots of bikers enjoying the fine weather, good luck to them but it's killing me.

Just wondering the need for the new map after fitting the roller kit, are the 1400 cams slightly different profile? Couldnt find a reason in all the stuff I've browsed.

Carried out the sump gasket fix in the meantime, original was fine but at least now I know, already had the dodgy pressure sender last year.

Roller cams work entirely differently to flat tappet cams and consequently due to the changes in lift rate and possibly duration they cause differences in how the heads flow gas. It isn't huge, in fact if you stick with factory mapping the same map is used as was used in the last of the flat tappet bikes and presumably the differences are so small that while in closed loop the ecu trims around them. Really though that is just an indicator of how vague and lacklustre the factory maps are.

Thing is there were several different flat tappet cam iterations used on the various 8V engines. These can be identified by different part numbers but mainly that related to how end float was controlled on the shafts. Some of them did have slightly different profiles though, (I graphed them back in the day.) but with the advent of the roller top end there is only one camshaft profile. All roller bikes, 1200 or 1400, use the same cams.

Depending on what map you currently have your bike may behave OK or it may be a spluttering, popping horror. The bottom line though is you can tune it and load up a Beetlemap and turn it into a turbine like tower of torquey excellence! Depending of course on all aspects of the machines health and tune being good.

Thanks Pete.

I'm deffo going to remap anyway. T.B balance & valve clearance adjust prior improved it massivley (Mainly T.B balance though) but it's still a pain in the arse round town. That heavy clutch being feathered aint much fun. Fired up my Beta Rev3 250 the other day after a long lay off & thought the cable had snapped at first.

I like the popping & gargling, like it's choking on it's own vomit, makes me smile. I really like the engine with it's relative low tech & surprisingly eager haul ass ability.

But most of all I just love the Stelvio looks, it's special I.M.O

FYI to the OP

Just a note that I'm unable to view any of Pete's images on this thread, despite being logged in and being able to see other's images.

Perhaps something with the image host??

Still working for me?

Me too.

I also posted it up in the 'Newer Models' section of V11Lemans.com so you could try accessing it there as well and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise I'd guess it's something to do with your browser settings.

works 4 me.

Never mind! Workplace wifi restrictions. Got on at home and everything is there.

Carry on….

Super helpfull bit of forum this!
I've recently bought a 2009 GRiSO. Great bike but needs this conversion to keep the engine running. My dad (and now my brother) has the 1200 Stelvio (big tank model) and has more than 150k kms on it so om hoping to match that with this upgrade.

@Pete Roper: can you still get the kits? I need the C kit or the adapted B kit. Im in the Netherlands so it can be shipped within Europe

Teo Lamers, TLM, have a ‘B’ kit in stock at the moment 1A002063 from memory. I can email you a list of the other bits you need if you like? PM me your email. I’m not certain if this board has a feature that you need to have a certain number of posts before Private Messaging works? If it does we’ll work something else out.

Pete Roper wrote:

I’m not certain if this board has a feature that you need to have a certain number of posts before Private Messaging works?

It does not. PM away!

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask or if its mentioned somewhere else on the forum. But can I download the needed maps after rollerisation somewhere?

If you’re currently running the 2230G803 map, that’s the latest factory map.