Ok, I cracked the secret handshake to get at the relays.
Remove the three trim screws on the right hand side
pull the trim out and reach through the hole in the trim with a ball end socket (need this because it's at an angle) and remove the rear holding screw. Loosen the front holding screw.
Tilt the back of the relay holding bracket up to expose the relays and sockets.
Certainly easier than removing the rear rack and all those screws.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]From the front "Start Relay" "Light Logic Relay" followed by the two "ECU Relays" sorry I didn't sort those out but the second to last is a weird shape